Door alignment rebuild

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

turrican

Well-Known Member
Posts
234
So I've spent a good few hours trying to get tub, bulkhead etc... lined up so door gaps are good. I've come to a point where I can't seem to get it any better. I've got new genuine door hinges and got same distance between top and bottom of bulkhead to tub, also used string to get tub curve aligned with bulkhead curve.

The problem is the van sides seem to taper inwards and the curve on the door doesn't line up with he bulkhead.

Do I give up on trying for perfection as it's 25 year old defender, or should I battle on?

Picture showing state
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190926_203914.jpg
    IMG_20190926_203914.jpg
    179.4 KB · Views: 154
That's a good point, I will look at the doors in more detail.
I am going to have another go, I'm happy with the gaps but I don't like that the arch/curve doesn't line up.
 
Looks like baulkhead needs moving to the rear a bit at the bottom. This would lift lock side of door and equalize the gap.
Yep I think you're right, at the moment the top and bottom of the bulkhead is equal distance.
I'll align everything using the door instead of taking measurements and see how it looks.
 
So there was a bit of vertical play in the door hinges and removing some spacers to allow the bulkhead tilt forward a little bit seems to have aligned the arch. That's one side sorted...

Thanks for everyone's help so far
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190927_220017.jpg
    IMG_20190927_220017.jpg
    185.6 KB · Views: 161
Was that spacers on the bulkhead to chassis brackets in the engine bay or out rigger. Just thought I'd mention those. Haven't watched the videos!
That door looks great now!
 
Was that spacers on the bulkhead to chassis brackets in the engine bay or out rigger. Just thought I'd mention those. Haven't watched the videos!
That door looks great now!
It was the spacers on the bulkhead to chassis in the engine bay.
 
It turns out the gap was a little too big, when I tried door seal there where a couple of places where I could see daylight. The gap was around 15mm, so with a bit of adjustment I managed to get this down to about 10mm which works well with the door seals.
From the information I've read the gap should be somewhere between 7 and 11mm.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190929_115535.jpg
    IMG_20190929_115535.jpg
    179.7 KB · Views: 140
  • IMG_20190929_115607.jpg
    IMG_20190929_115607.jpg
    195.6 KB · Views: 134
It turns out the gap was a little too big, when I tried door seal there where a couple of places where I could see daylight. The gap was around 15mm, so with a bit of adjustment I managed to get this down to about 10mm which works well with the door seals.
From the information I've read the gap should be somewhere between 7 and 11mm.
Even more perfect. .
 
I've got a gap about 12mm at the top of both doors. Pic attached.
How big is your gap? My tub was tilting down, I had to put spacers under the pads at the seatbox end to get it aligned. I used a piece of string from the rear of the tub to the bulkhead at the arch to make sure it was level.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190929_160420.jpg
    IMG_20190929_160420.jpg
    178.3 KB · Views: 107
I've got a gap about 12mm at the top of both doors. Pic attached.
How big is your gap? My tub was tilting down, I had to put spacers under the pads at the seatbox end to get it aligned. I used a piece of string from the rear of the tub to the bulkhead at the arch to make sure it was level.
I've got 12mm on the outside. I remember now before I fitted the door rubbers I could see through the gap. My problem now is the gap at the bottom. I dont really want to pop rivet the cill rubber through my new frame. I'll live with the gap.
 
Back
Top