Door alignment rebuild

So I've spent a good few hours trying to get tub, bulkhead etc... lined up so door gaps are good. I've come to a point where I can't seem to get it any better. I've got new genuine door hinges and got same distance between top and bottom of bulkhead to tub, also used string to get tub curve aligned with bulkhead curve.

The problem is the van sides seem to taper inwards and the curve on the door doesn't line up with he bulkhead.

Do I give up on trying for perfection as it's 25 year old defender, or should I battle on?

Picture showing state

I spent ages like yourself looking for perfection. I found it wasn’t possible lol

Mike at Britannic restorations, on YouTube, did a few videos on door alignment. Very useful.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRssffMP_F8_SCJcqFLq4Ow

Pappasmurf said:

Mike at Britannic restorations, on YouTube, did a few videos on door alignment. Very useful.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCRssffMP_F8_SCJcqFLq4Ow

Click to expand...

Yep have watched all his videos, followed them as closely as I could. Just thinking that working with a new chassis and galvanized bulkhead I might be fighting a battle I cannot win.

That maybe the case. If everything g else is perfect, perhaps it's your doors that are the problem.

That's a good point, I will look at the doors in more detail.
I am going to have another go, I'm happy with the gaps but I don't like that the arch/curve doesn't line up.

Looks like baulkhead needs moving to the rear a bit at the bottom. This would lift lock side of door and equalize the gap.

mick the builder said:

Looks like baulkhead needs moving to the rear a bit at the bottom. This would lift lock side of door and equalize the gap.

Click to expand...

Yep I think you're right, at the moment the top and bottom of the bulkhead is equal distance.
I'll align everything using the door instead of taking measurements and see how it looks.

So there was a bit of vertical play in the door hinges and removing some spacers to allow the bulkhead tilt forward a little bit seems to have aligned the arch. That's one side sorted...

Thanks for everyone's help so far

Was that spacers on the bulkhead to chassis brackets in the engine bay or out rigger. Just thought I'd mention those. Haven't watched the videos!
That door looks great now!

Al2O3 said:

Was that spacers on the bulkhead to chassis brackets in the engine bay or out rigger. Just thought I'd mention those. Haven't watched the videos!
That door looks great now!

Click to expand...

It was the spacers on the bulkhead to chassis in the engine bay.

turrican said:

So there was a bit of vertical play in the door hinges and removing some spacers to allow the bulkhead tilt forward a little bit seems to have aligned the arch. That's one side sorted...

Thanks for everyone's help so far

Click to expand...

Looks perfect to me.

It turns out the gap was a little too big, when I tried door seal there where a couple of places where I could see daylight. The gap was around 15mm, so with a bit of adjustment I managed to get this down to about 10mm which works well with the door seals.
From the information I've read the gap should be somewhere between 7 and 11mm.

I hope I can get my gaps that good after my doors are refurbed and new sills fitted.

turrican said:

It turns out the gap was a little too big, when I tried door seal there where a couple of places where I could see daylight. The gap was around 15mm, so with a bit of adjustment I managed to get this down to about 10mm which works well with the door seals.
From the information I've read the gap should be somewhere between 7 and 11mm.

Click to expand...

Even more perfect. .

What's your gap at the top like? Mine is quite large but if I raise the door, I'm in the same position as you regards the curves lining up. It's as if the doors top rail is too narrow.

I've got a gap about 12mm at the top of both doors. Pic attached.
How big is your gap? My tub was tilting down, I had to put spacers under the pads at the seatbox end to get it aligned. I used a piece of string from the rear of the tub to the bulkhead at the arch to make sure it was level.

turrican said:

I've got a gap about 12mm at the top of both doors. Pic attached.
How big is your gap? My tub was tilting down, I had to put spacers under the pads at the seatbox end to get it aligned. I used a piece of string from the rear of the tub to the bulkhead at the arch to make sure it was level.

Click to expand...

I've got 12mm on the outside. I remember now before I fitted the door rubbers I could see through the gap. My problem now is the gap at the bottom. I dont really want to pop rivet the cill rubber through my new frame. I'll live with the gap.

mick the builder said:

I dont really want to pop rivet the cill rubber through my new frame. I'll live with the gap.

Click to expand...

I've contemplated something like this along the sill, not sure how long it would last but its cheap and doesn't require any drilling.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/stormguard-extra-thick-weatherstrip-black-3-5m-2-pack/40425?

That's reminded me I bought some self adhesive neoprene rubber strip from Ebay to put under my floor panels. Comes in various widths and thicknesses. Cheers.