Don't want to go into gear

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59
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Bradford
Hi Guy's

My mate is haveing a problem getting his TD5 into gear.. he's had the box done and a new clutch and asked them to look at the Master and slave cylinder at the same time... But for some reason they didn't. He's taken it back twice now but they still haven't done it saying bleading it will cure the problem?... He's having to pump like mad to get it in gear when it's left a few hours so air is getting in... I'm guessing it's a seal thats gone so maybe a repair kit will do.. but TBH he will buy both new if it solves his problem...

So the question is... why are they not doing it?.. is it a total Sh*t of a job to do or something???

I've not even looked under the lid but said I'd do it for him.. can't imagine why it would be hard??

:)
 
I'm having the same problem on my 300 tdi, won't go into first or reverse and is a right pig and crunches in all other gears, biting point is on the floor, just had a new slave cylinder fitted :-( now thinking it's something to do with the fork and release bearing?

Same sorta symptoms as your mates td5?
 
if the cylinders are old when the slave is removed from the pushrod the piston goes forward a bit so the seal meats the edge of the internal wear and bends over then it will not seat back well again => it becomes unbleedable..replaceing both cylinders is a good practice as the new slave cylinder will put stress on the 'tired' master's seals and it will fail too in no time....but at least a new slave cylinder is required to make it work, just that replaceing both you'll have to bleed the system only once cos bleeding the Td5's clutch is stressful anyway

i cut a cylinder in half once out of curiosity and it had a wear along the seal's "travel" ... so IMO replaceing the seals is not a proper fix, they're not so expensive to go for false economy
 
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if the cylinders are old when the slave is removed from the pushrod the piston goes forward a bit so the seal meats the edge of the internal wear and bends over then it will not seat back well again => it becomes unbleedable..replaceing both cylinders is a good practice as the new slave cylinder will put stress on the 'tired' master's seals and it will fail too in no time....but at least a new slave cylinder is required to make it work, just that replaceing both you'll have to bleed the system only once cos bleeding the Td5's clutch is stressful anyway

i cut a cylinder in half once out of curiosity and it had a wear along the seal's "travel" ... so IMO replaceing the seals is not a proper fix, they're not so expensive to go for false economy

Thats great.. thanks for that.. so we will get the two cylinders and replace them both... but why do you say bleeding the Td5's clutch is stressful anyway?

What makes it so hard?? As I've said, I've not even tried to find them yet so that may answer my question when I do... but if they are hard to get at you've got to ask why with a car that size!!... Cheers
 
it's not hard to get at the slave where you must bleed it just that you need much patience cos you have to push/release the pedal many times, and do it as in the book, see attachment ... keep the container/bottle which is attached to the pipe above the bleed nipple and wait with the pedal depressed untill the bubbles are leaving the liquid, i used a transparent funnel attached to the pipe and kept it near the master cylinder... when you push the pedal bubbles will come up and when you release it fluid will be sucked into the cylinder...and so on untill no bubbles there
 

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okay, thanks

I have a bleed thing with a one way valve so that may help... either that or close the nipple every time its pushed down... Will have a look.. cheers
 
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