Freelander 2 (LR2) DIY Haldex Gen4 Service Guide

This guide will be serialised, as time allows.


I figured it's probably sensible to do a guide on servicing Haldex Gen4, as there seems to be limited information on here, as to how its done. The Haldex Gen4 was fitted to all Freelander 2s after the 2009MY update, which is all vehicles with the chassis No 9H000001 and later.

Servicing this vital component isn't really that difficult, or that expensive, and it's definitely worth doing more often then LR say it should.

I'd be inclined to use the VW service interval, which is 3 years or 40k miles IIRC.
The fluid is the lifeblood of the Haldex, so is extremely important, if an expensive repair is to be avoided.

First off, how difficult is it? Answer, not very difficult. If you can change the oil in an engine, then you can change the fluid and filter in the Gen4.

What is needed? A service kit, and the necessary tools to do the job.
Service kit, what should it contain?
The special fluid, obviously.
The filter.
The filter cap.
The pump O rings, both sizes.
The Haldex body to diff O ring.
The fill plug copper washer.
Some kits also supply a syringe, to fill the Haldex, and then set the level (more about that later.)

Here's what was in the kit I used. It costs just £48 (as of January 2021), from a supplier on Ebay.



As you can see, everything is included, which is really helpful.

Once you have a service kit, next you need to get dirty by grovelling under the rear of the FL2. There's no need to lift it super high, but the vehicle needs to be high enough for for working underneath, and obviously safely supported too.

What tools do you need?
Lifting and supporting equipment.
E10 Torx socket, and a suitable ratchet.
10mm hex socket, and suitable ratchet.
18mm spanner.
A small jack or even a suitable block of wood to support the front of diff, when the mount is removed.
A stout chisel and a hammer.
A small prybar or stout flat head screwdriver.
A suitable container, to catch the fluid that will spill out.


There are no hard and fast rules to remove the Haldex, but I'll tell you how I did it.

First job is to remove the 6 x E10 Torx bolts from the propshaft CV joint, where it's attached to the Haldex front flange, and a note on those later. The bolts are grouped into 3 sets of 2, each pair of bolts passing through a curved strap washer.

Once the 6 E10 bolts and their straps are out, put them aside for later use.

Next the propshaft flange needs to be split away from the Haldex flange, which can be difficult.

I found lowering the front of the diff helpful, so that's the next job.

I placed a small scissor jack under the diff, just behind the front mount.
I removed the LH 18mm mount bolt, and the 4 x 10mm bolts, securing the diff to the mount. Next I released the RH 18mm mount bolt, which allows the mount to swing down, out the way. The weight of the diff is now on the jack, which can be lowered a couple of inches, to aid removing the drive flange. There are a couple of ways to do this, I used the chisel and hammer method, which basically means holding the chisel at an angle on the side of the prop flange, and striking the chisel with the hammer. I did this on one side, then the other, and it popped out the cupped Haldex flange. The other method is to use a hammer and punch through one of the two holes in the front of the Haldex flange, which again will pop the prop out of the Haldex flange.

The diff can be lowered a bit more at the this point, to improve access to the 4 Haldex to diff securing bolts.
There are 2 lengths of bolts used, the 3 shorter bolts I've marked in red, the longer is marked green. Although the Haldex is bolted to the diff, which is out the vehicle in this picture, I've orientated the image, so it'll be as you see it in the vehicle. I removed the 2 lower bolts, leaving the 2 upper bolt still engaged a few threads for safety.


Once the 2 lower bolts are removed and 2 upper bolts are slackened, the Haldex can be eased from the front of the diff. The fit will be tight, so the Haldex will need gently levering off the diff, with a stout flat head screwdriver, or small prybar. There are a couple of sections between the casings, which can be levered against. It'll be obvious when it's free, as fluid should spill from the joint, and it'll hang on the remaining bolts. Now let it drain for a bit, then carefully remove the previously loosened bolts, making sure you are prepared to take the weight of the Haldex, which is approximately 10 kgs.
From here it can be taken out from under the vehicle, and moved to a more comfortable workplace. It's important you don't drop it, or get it contaminated with any foreign materials while working on it.
I placed mine on a biscuit tin lid for safe keeping and working on.

The diff will look like this, with its drive spline clearly visible (again this is an out the vehicle picture).

Any remaining fluid in the diff front can be wiped out with a lint free cloth, or some paper kitchen towel.

Note on bolts:

The LR manual says to replace all the bolts removed for this service, but I suspect this as only due to them being patch bolts.
I will simply clean them, and apply thread lock on reassembly. I'm not suggesting you do the same however, as you may wish to replace the bolts, as per the LR manual's guidelines.

I will however be replacing the 6 propshaft flange bolts.
I did this because my vehicle has previously been worked on by an incompetent person, so I wanted to start afresh with unmolested propshaft flange bolts.

Next time, I'll be using a dab of thread locking compound on the propshaft flange bolt, as I will with all the other bolts removed for the service.

Next is to do a bit of disassembly on the bench.

Tools needed are:
4mm Allen key.
T15 Torx.
A stout flat head screwdriver.
A small flat head screwdriver.
A general purpose workshop knife.
A light hammer.
Brake cleaner spray.
Lint free cloths/ kitchen towel.

There are only two areas that need dealing with to service the Gen4, the pump and filter (marked below).
The pump motor needs to be removed. It has a very fine gauze filter, which will be pretty much blocked, so it needs thorough cleaning.
The pump is secured to the Haldex body by two 4mm cap machine screws, and an electrical cable plugged into the Haldex ECU. Once the Allen cap machine screws are removed, and the cable unplugged, the pump can be gently levered off the Haldex body, with the screwdriver in the slot between the two components. Be aware that the high pip on the end of the pump, will actually touch and get stuck under on the underside of drive flange, so will need to be eased away gently, for the pump to be fully withdrawn from the Haldex body.
Now the pump is out, you'll be able to see just how dirty the gauze is. The gauze needs removing from the pump body, before it can be cleaned with the brake cleaner. DON'T be tempted to simply spray cleaner on the gauze while it's attached to the pump, as the cleaner could damage the internal pump pistons.
To remove the pump filter gauze, the two T15 Torx head machine screws need to be removed. I've marked the machine screws to remove green in the picture. Once the screws are out, the gauze will need to be gently prised off the pump body, for which I used my general purpose workshopknife. Be careful as it's pretty fragile, ease it gently one side then the other, until it pops off. DON'T undo the screw I've ringed in red, unless you want to the pump pistons ping out, (not advisable),(don't ask how I know), so just don't.

In this picture, the gauze has been removed, and simply flipped over, so as to get an idea of just how much dirt makes it through to the gauze, and into the clean area below.


Once the filter gauze is cleaned and refitted to the pump, it'll look like this. Note: I don't know why the metal pump cover is so scratched, but I suspect I'm not the first person in here.

Next we can move on to the filter.
The filter is under pump pressure when the Haldex is running, which is why the top cap looks so beefy. Just like the pump, the filter cap is secured to the Haldex body with two 4mm socket cap machine screws.
Once these are removed, the filter cap can be tapped or levered off. I put my screwdriver under an overhang, using my hand as a hammer on the screwdriver to lift the filter cap away from the Haldex body, indicated by the green arrow in the picture.
The cap will pop off, and probably reveal a disc of plastic, which was originally attached to the cap, but parts company, as it'll be stuck in the Haldex body.

This is where things get a little bit more brutal, as the plastic filter seal assembly needs to be removed next.
It'll be corroded into place (notice the aluminium oxide on the cap), so will need some persuading to come out. I used a small flat head screwdriver, which was tapped through the edge of the plastic, so I could lever it out.
Once it's out, you'll see the top of the filter, but you may need to tip the Haldex over first, to empty some fluid out, before the filter is visible.

I pulled the dirty filter out with an old pair of long nose pliers.

Once the filter is removed, you'll end up with a Haldex body, with two open holes, which you can now invert, and drain as much old fluid is you can, gently rocking the body, to allow as much as possible of the old fluid to escape.
Turn the Haldex body back to the drive flange up position, so the pump and filter holes can be wiped clean. Both the pump and filter orifices had loads of lumps of stuff in the bottom, which needed cleaning out with kitchen towel, soaked in brake cleaner.
Pump orifice.
Filter orifice.
At this stage, the Haldex is ready for reasonably.

Haldex reassembly is basically a reversal of the stripping process.
The kit I used contains everything that is needed for to complete this.

The cleaned pump can be installed, but replace the two sealing O rings before you put it back in. The upper and lower sealing rings are different sizes, so make sure you put the correct size, in the correct location.
Apply a smear of new Haldex fluid around the O rings, and on the pump orifice wall, so the O ring seals slide smoothly when the pump is installed.
The pump now needs to be refitted in the same orientation it was removed, or the power wire won't reach the ECU.
The pump can be gently pressed into position, securing with the machine screws, and tightening them to 6 Nm, which isn't much more than a gently nip. The electric plug can now be refitted to the ECU.

The filter is the next thing to install, but again is basically a reversal of the removal process.

The filter goes in spring upwards, although my original filter was actually missing its spring altogether. It needs a firm push onto place, so the lower seal engages correct.

The cap can now be refitted. I again used a smear of Haldex fluid on the O ring seal, so it would slide into the filter orifice smoothly.
The cap can then me secured with the two new machine screws in the kit, and tightened to 6Nm, just like the pump.

Just before the Haldex is refitted to the diff, the large O ring on the Haldex to diff joint needs replacing, with the new one in the kit.

That's it, the Haldex is now ready to refitted to the diff.

Now it's time to go back under the vehicle to refit the Haldex.

Tools needed are:
18mm spanner.
10mm socket.
13mm socket.
18mm socket.
A torque wrench/wrenches to cover the range of 24Nm to 175Nm.
Brake cleaner.
Kitchen towel or lint free cloth.
Light duty thread locking compound.

A reminder: The LR manual says to replace all the bolts removed, but I suspect this as only due to them being patch bolts.
I will simply clean them, and apply thread lock on reassembly. I'm not suggesting you do the same however, as you may wish to replace the bolts, as per the LR manual's guidelines.


The first job is to remove the filler plug for cleaning, discarding copper sealing washer at the same time. The new copper sealing washer can be fitted to the filler plug, which can then refitted, but just a few turns are needed, as it's going to be removed again for filling with fluid.

The space in the diff where the Haldex clutch pack sits needs to be cleaned out with kitchen towel, or a lint free cloth, using a cloth dampened with brake cleaner if needed.

The Haldex can the be offered up, and gently slid into place on the diff, making sure the bolt holes align correctly. The Haldex is a snug fit on the diff, so I found it easier to install the bolts gently, remembering that one is longer. The bolts can then be turned a few turns at a time, working around the Haldex in a diagonal pattern.
The idea is to evenly pull the Haldex to the diff face, so it's as square is possible, thus avoiding binding. When the joint between the diff and Haldex is fully closed, the bolts can be torqued up to 24Nm.

At this point, I think it's easier to add a majority of the fluid required by the Haldex. Add 500mm of the fluid supplied in the kit, with the 100ml syringe, which is also supplied. Once 500ml is in, the filler plug can be refitted a few turns, to prevent ingress of contaminants.

The whole diff/Haldex assembly can now be lifted up to almost it's correct position so the propshaft flange can be refitted. You'll need to turn the Haldex flange, so it aligns with the bolt holes in the propshaft flange.
The 3 pairs of propshaft flange bolts can now be cleaned and have a dab of thread lock (or fit new bolts) and be fitted loosely, and the diff/Haldex lifted to its normal position.

The front diff support can now fitted to the diff. The 10mm bolts are refitted, with a dab of thread lock (or new bolts) and left loose for the next stage.

The front mount upper bolts (18mm) are next, these need cleaning and thread lock (or new bolts) and are torqued up to 175Nm.

The 4 x 10mm front support to diff bolts can now be fully tightened to 35Nm.

The 6 propshaft flange bolts can now be fully tightened to 40Nm.

That's it, the Haldex is in, ready for the next stage of the service process.

Intentionally blank, for future updates.

Intentionally blank, for future updates.

Hi John.
Only just read this and it's been up since 202, i have just serviced a spare Haldex gen 4 i have & also cleaned out the spare diff it came with, link below

Thanks @Nodge68 - I'm preparing myself to do this. Great tutorial.

GrumpyGel said:

Thanks @Nodge68 - I'm preparing myself to do this. Great tutorial.

Click to expand...

It's not that bad a job, nothing like as bad as removing an IRD.
There are only about 15 bolts to remove, and you won't have corrosion to deal with. Just make sure you get some thread lock compound for the propshaft bolts, and a torque wrench if you don't have one.