Discovery 2 rough running

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Socky77

Member
Posts
22
Location
Uk
Hi
I have a td5 that is running rough. I changed the injector harness, cleaned out the ECU and it had not effect. There was no oil in the ECU. I have connected up hawkeye and the only code that picked up was maf sensor so I replaced that and the live data from that is good now. I get high air code 3030 though now. The only other thing to mention is that the clutch release bearing has failed to and they both seemed to happen at around the same time. I am planning on replacing the clutch this weekend but any advice would be very much appreciated.
 
1988smithy said:
Honestly, no idea! I'd say check crank sensor as mentioned.

Did you replace MAF with a genuine land rover one?
Click to expand...
I replaced with a genuine one and that appeared to clear that fault. I will check the crank sensor over the weekend thanks for your help
 
Socky77 said:
Do you think it could be related to the clutch problem?
Click to expand...
well clutch does have a switch on it that drops revs for a gear change and if not working properly can cause similar problems....


try starting and not pressing clutch get to opeprating temp re and see what happens then press clutch pedal and release rev again of problem appears it could be related ot the clutch switch.
 
problem with TD% is MAF APS ATS CPS & Clutch switch are all interrelated, had ot on a diagnotic running live data yet?
 
Thanks so much for all the responses. I am pretty sure the release bearing has failed as it's always been a bit noisy but makes a terrible noise now. I will change it over the weekend and check the sensor then. I will let you all know what the outcome is once done
 
Hi all
I finally got around to replacing the clutch and as you all said it was the crank sensor causing the rough running. This brings me to my next problem. I replaced the clutch, release bearing, slave cylinder and push rod but can’t seem to get a good enough clutch to change gear smoothly. The pedal does not feel to bad but are these a nightmare to bleed. Any ideas would be much appreciated. I definitely put the clutch plate in the right way around lol
 
Yes, they are an absolute b1tch to bleed through. Mine took 4 days of bleeding until there was some resistance through the pedal then leaving the pedal fully depressed with a piece of wood over night, then repeating the process for the next 3 days.
 
IMO they are hard to bleed ONLY if one of the cylinders is not in the best shape, when i changed mines(both at the same time) took me max 10 minutes to bleed it perfect with the funnel method, as it's in the pic a hose with a ''funnel" filled with fluid attached to the open bleeder then just push, keep down few seconds and release the pedal consecutively untill no bubbles are rising through the hose then tightren the nipple... job done

clutch bleed.jpg
 
or undo the slave cylinder off the bell housing and open the bleed nipple and allow it to gravity feed with the rod fully extended. (don't press the clutch pedal) . When all the air is out lock the bleed nipple then push the slave cylinder back into the bell housing and bolt up. There will be a little back pressure as you push the slave cylinder back into position.
 
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