The Haynes manual says "remove the ACE actuator" it then goes on to give massive warnings about not allowing any dirt to get into the system etc etc.
It also says that once fitted "it may be necessary to bleed the ACE hydraulic system using Testbook at a LR garage etc having driven it there gently"
BUT it then says "However, in the majority of cases, we have found that the system will self-bleed, providing the hydraulic system is not "dry" (completely empty).
So actually not as bad as it seems.
Once this is done the rest is pretty straightforward,
"Undo the nut and detach the long arm from the anti-roll bar link.
Undo the retaining bolt, recover the washer then pull the long arm from the anti-roll bar.
Ensure all mating faces are clean,
Position the long arm on the anti-roll bar, fit the retaining bolt and washer, then tighten it to specified torque (I'll give all the torques at the end as there are loads)
Fit the end of the long arm over the end of the anti-roll bar link, then refit the nut and tighten it to the specified torque
Refit the ACE actuator .....
i.e. Position the actuator, refit the mounting bolts/nuts and tighten them to the specified torque. "
(Now the famous bit)
"The remainder of refitting is a reversal of removal, noting the following points:
a) Tighten all fasteenrs to the specified torque where given.
b) Change the ACE fluid filter as described in chapter 1
c) Have the rear ACE hyrdraulic system bled by a LR dealer or specialist.
So the last bit is a bit self-contradictory and provided you have kept everything well clean and not lost much fluid probably will not be necessary!
Torque settings
ACE actuator to long arm 48 Nm or 35 lbs ft
ACE long arm to anti-roll bar link 50 Nm or 37 lbs ft
ACE long arm to anti roll-bar 180Nm or 133 lbs ft
Anti-roll bar connecting link nuts 50 Nm or 37 lbs ft
Ditto mounting clamp bolts 45 Nm or 33 lbs ft
Hope this all makes sense, as much as a Haynes manual ever does!
