Discovery 1 V8 Inition Barrel Issue

Aye Up All,

Discovery 1 V8 auto, sticking ignition barrel issue here.

I am told that my vehicle requires the replacement version with the auto transmission interlock - when I eventually found one - 400 quid!!!!!

That information was based on a part suppliers search on the vehicle’s VIN but as far as I am aware it isn’t a US/Japanese export model - first registered UK 1997 and I have all the UK MOTs. (Would I be correct in saying that the UK autos don’t have the interlock and if so why not?)

Has anyone had this problem and either been able to source a cheap replacement or found a suitable work-around which doesn’t compromise safety/security?

I have read various posts on the site re removing wafers from the barrel which I might have to follow as a last resort.

I haven’t yet removed the ignition switch from the vehicle for comparison but does anyone know the answers to the following -

1. What makes an auto lock version identifiable - something about the lock body or the wiring beyond?
2. Are the barrel and steering lock aspects of the standard and export versions identical and it is the wiring beyond the switch which makes them different or are the two switches totally different?

My thought process is, could I simply use a new standard barrel and steering lock section for a (UK) V8 auto in conjunction with the existing switch and wiring which is presently on my vehicle?

3. Has anyone come up with/installed an alternative method of turning the switch section of the ignition without using a key/barrel combination? (Screwdriver and hot-wiring aside! Lolol) I appreciate that this would probably void the steering lock (and the insurance?!!! - or would it? Immobiliser and an aftermarket external steering lock could be fitted.

4. Apart from being caught out away from home with a stuck ignition my other concern is re the steering lock element. Would I be correct in assuming that the steering lock can only engage when the key/barrel has been rotated and cannot fail (lock) in motion? Having read about the removal of wafers from the lock surely that could be a possibility?

Hopefully someone out there will have the (inexpensive!) solution as I doubt that I am the only one who has experienced this problem.

Regards

Enzian

Try using graphite powder on the key and in the lock first perhaps try a new key.
As your the one driving the vehicle u must know if it has ignition interlock feature, but it can be bypassed if u have, u don’t have to be told.

I have the interlock feature on my Japanese company car and sometimes forget, so can’t remove the key but then only a second or two to put right.

Why don’t uk spec. vehicles have it, I don’t know, the question should be... why do US and Japanese have it, something u can ask them.





Sent from my iPad on a train

Hi Enzian,
Both of my D1s had ignition barrel or broken key issues. They were NOT automatic though. In both cases, the barrel and a set of keys were fitted, very cheaply. The original fob works the alarm, immobiliser, and unlocks the doors, then the key starts the car. I have no idea what is meant by the "auto transsmission interlock" but if all autos have them then there ought to be loads available in scrap yards, so if necessary, that would be the first place I would look. Dismantlers are all online now and you can often search loads of them with just one hit through a site that searches them for you.
If just turning the key is a problem then you should be able to take the barrel out and either match the wafers to your key or get a new key cut and an ordinary locksmith should be able to do this. We need to know if your problem is mechanical or electrical.

Aye Up,

Thanks for the quick responses.

Ive only recently purchased this vehicle and it is the first auto Ive ever owned - steered clear of them in the past but this time thought what the hell, its a nice motor so in for a penny........
I’d never even heard of an auto interlock until the parts bloke mentioned it.
As I stated that information came from a parts search of the VIN, it may/may not be true and as I haven’t yet removed the whole ignition switch combination I can’t compare it.

I do have the original owner handbook and had read it cover to cover (bedtime reading) where a note states that P or N must be selected before the engine will start - I assumed that this was a standard feature of (all) automatics to protect the transmission. (I can’t see any indication on the handbook to say that it is for export models so assumed that it applies to UK vehicles too and is just standard good starting practice).

Stanley - as per the title of the thread it is the barrel that is sticking so the key won’t turn - therefore a mechanical issue I assume. There were no starting /running issues when the key did turn so I am assuming that it isn’t an auto interlock problem. Sticking barrels seem to be a common problem on these vehicles from what I am researching.

Yes, I have read that using graphite powder can work (and wod40 too but not recommended by everyone) but I am looking for a more permanent fix and I’m hoping that someone on the forum might have been able to tell me that a new, thirty-odd quid non export V8 auto barrel/body /steering lock combination can be fitted to the existing V8 auto (possibly export) electrical switch section, potentially a quicker (and cheaperr?) route than using a lock smith. Plus, if it is more than the brass wafers that have worn - i.e. the barrel wafer slots/key-way aperture, can a locksmith replace that?

Although it is presently a mechanical problem, a process of key/barrel turns are used to reprogramme the immobiliser so thinking in retrospect, any alternatives to a turn-key start that I might have been hoping for would have to take that into account.

I’m back and forth on the vehicle at the mo so don’t be miffed if I don’t get bac to any posts straight away.

Thanks

Enzian

Don't use WD40 - it's rubbish, being essentially kerosene - use Ambersil 40+ , and try the graphite powder to get you mobile again, which should also confirm the lack of the interlock ....

To my knowledge, the Jap export models did not have a transmission interlock - which, as per Discools post above requires the AT to be in park before the key can be removed ... I looked at a few before I bought my (UK market ) D1 auto..... it could of course be completely hit and miss which vehicles had it ... but a VIN decoder should assist identifying the spec of the vehicle .... a friendly main-stealer might help too, but I wouldn't hold my breath. Have you looked in the online LR parts catalogues, like the one based in the former soviet republics

Your D1 WILL have the anti start feature - I.E. starter motor only works when AT in N or P - this is to prevent the vehicle being started in gear, and launching itself into a wall - I.E an idiot proofing safety thing - IIRC, this is done electrically, using the reverse light switch and a relay ..... the wiring diagrams are in RAVE for more bedtime reading, should you so desire

It would be worth having a look through RAVE for the service instructions for the steering column ......

Hello Disco1BFG,
Thanks for all that info.

Unfortunately I needed to get the truck out of the way so have been working on the issue and used wad40 before I saw your post. Ive finally got the barrel rotating but will still pursue replacing it.

I tried your info re key removal and I can take it out of the ignition with the shift in any position (stationary/engine off) - that stated I’ve now got a flat battery so I cant say that it confirms/negates anything as I assume the auto interlock would be electronic?

I will follow up on the LR parts cat and RAVE, I assume that is another inet resource?

Thanks again.

Enzian said:

(Would I be correct in saying that the UK autos don’t have the interlock and if so why not?)
Has anyone had this problem and either been able to source a cheap replacement or found a suitable work-around which doesn’t compromise safety/security?

Click to expand...

As long as your's is not Japan export spec(cos it can't be NAS as long as it's RHD) this is what you need: https://www.island-4x4.co.uk/steering-lock-ignition-switch-9498-lucas-stc1435g-p-27098.html

Aye Up Sierrafery,

That sounds promising, I will pursue it tomorrow.

Thanks very much.

Regards

Enzian

Enzian said:

Aye Up Sierrafery,

That sounds promising, I will pursue it tomorrow.

Thanks very much.

Regards

Enzian

Click to expand...

Just an update - as Sierrafery stated the vehicle did not require the export switch and has now had a standard STC 1435 fitted. It took me about thirty minutes and that included making a ‘specialist’ tool to split the large ignition connector.

A point to note is that it had been a parts supplier (no names, no pack drill! Lol) who had suggested that it might have needed the ‘foreign’ switch (at 400 quid!!!) based on no build detail coming back on a VIN search.

I think that my first port of call might now be landyzone.

Thanks again to all who replied.