Disco Project :D

oxford fabrication are on staple hurst farm on the main staight through weston, regards to your wing, i would cut a strip the full length and a little bit wider then the wedest rust hole,then weld all the way around , unless the rest of the inner arch is shot, i would bother replacing the whole panel !

dollydisco said:

oxford fabrication are on staple hurst farm on the main staight through weston, regards to your wing, i would cut a strip the full length and a little bit wider then the wedest rust hole,then weld all the way around , unless the rest of the inner arch is shot, i would bother replacing the whole panel !

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Thanks on both accounts would the arch liner still fit ok once i done this?

do it from under the bonnet, then underseal from beneath,then arch liner will fit fine

dollydisco said:

do it from under the bonnet, then underseal from beneath,then arch liner will fit fine

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good good thanks for that

as i said mate,if you get all the steel you need,get all your rusty areas prepped up and ready,and ill come over one weekend well hit it hard and get it done! ive still got both front inner arches, and rear floor to rebuild from underneath so welding all day long is not a bother!

awesome thanks

had a couple of hours free today to play not much but every little counts.
I traced the wiring from the roof lights down the side of the windscreen and under the scuttle trim, this took a while as that side of the car is in the hedge
i pulled some wireing through the firewall or front bulkhead or whatever people call it and finished wireing in the relay
i drilled some holes in a bracket under the glove box so i could bolt the relays to it
Cut the front sound proofing out so i could see what rust there is
Drivers side

Passengers side (feck knows where the oil came from)

then i sat and confused myself for a bit trying to convince myself that getting a double make and break relay would not solve my problems, am going to be wireing an electric fan in so i want to get all the wireing in so i can get the dash back together then put the fan in whenever i get around to it, but it's going to be going through an on - off - on switch 1st position will be normal as in the fan will activate when it hits the req temp, off will be for when/if i take the landy swimming or jet wash the rad that way it wont spray **** all over my engine and bay and the second on will be a constant feed to the fan just incase every think fooks up ;/ but have figured it out to be wired like this hopefully someone will spot any probs
PIN 1 - Power out 1 (through a relay to activate the electric thermostat)
PIN 2 - Power in (fused feed from ignition live poss starter or alternator)
PIN 3 - Power out 2 (Constant feed to the fan)
PIN 7 - Earth
PIN 8 - Sidelight feed in

Pin 3 will be wired through a relay to activate the fan
kenlowe say it's wired like this but i'm now confused again
don't suppose anyone knows what these rings are for?

i guessed one goes round the gear leaver but not sure why or what the other one is for

prob a stupid question but can i put +2" shocks on with the standard springs? also will the brake lines need to be extended?

you can,but you might aswell get a full set at once, line will only need to be extended if your going for major articulation. oh yeh thanks for your help yesterday! next time your up ill let you have a play with the real welder

depends, ive got +2 inch shocks and springs
they are soft ones so have lots of travel, and i need dislocation cones on the front as they keep popping out, ive already got some on the back, and as ive removed both ARBs i get increased axle drop so needed extended hoses

small update dropped the front bumper off at the powder coating place today £40 to have it chemically stripped and coated

Was Oxford industrial finishers if anyone is interested.
need to pull my finger out with this thing. just put an order in with YRM so should be getting some replacement panels soon need to pop upto weston and pick up some 18 gauge steel and thinking about some mid steel or something thin(ish) easily bendable metal for the c-pillar to arch bit where it is rusting or might just treat it and fill it undecided atm

New panels courtesy of YRM metal solutions LTD


Am hoping badger will pop round this sunday to give me a hand cutting the old one out and welding the new one in place

yu dint replace the inner angles then?

they don't need doing not rusty from what i can see should i replace them?
*now on order * able to come around the weekend after badger?

not much today as i'm struggling to see properlly so spent the day with a friend watching him try and figure out why the S16 rad fan's weren't working. apart from that i partially cleaned a seat for the land rover
During

After

And had a quick go at the roof
Before

After

Pretty good stuff i think

well i got the rest of the arch metal through the post today unfortunatly it's going to have to go back as they've sent me the parts for the O/S rather than the N/S you'd think they'd check the parcel before they pay to have it shipped

looking good dude,i might be round this weekend to help you do the arches!!

dollydisco said:

looking good dude,i might be round this weekend to help you do the arches!!

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that'd be great as i have no idea am off all day sunday and off 3 till 6 on sat

Well had 3 hours off work today so i went and got the metal for the floorpan i will highly reccomend oxford fabriction for anyone local to oxford they are a great bunch of guys very friendly and helpful tyey didn't have the metal i needed so they gave me stainless insted roll on sunday. also anyone have any ideas where i can get the spanner for the viscious fan on the 300? will the slimline one from halfords do if i just bend it to shape? i need it for sunday so i can get the leaky injector pump off so that it can be re-built