Disco not starting td5

Changed the orings and copper washes and then broke down 20 miles later and the thing will now not start, looks like i have done something wrong. Any ideas welcome.

brainboy81 said:

Changed the orings and copper washes and then broke down 20 miles later and the thing will now not start, looks like i have done something wrong. Any ideas welcome.

Click to expand...

Did you re-set the injector rocker clearances properly?

If you had it running on 5 cylinders for 20 miles you can't have done too much wrong.

When you turn the key on is the pump and filter noisy?

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

Did you re-set the injector rocker clearances properly?

If you had it running on 5 cylinders for 20 miles you can't have done too much wrong.

When you turn the key on is the pump and filter noisy?

CharlesY

Click to expand...

Yes its noisey, was running as sweet as, sounded so much better than it had for a long while and loads of smooth p ower delivery.

The fuel pump had gone quiet again after the rings were initaly changed.


I set the clearences by bottoming out each inhectors and then winding back 1 turn and locking them off to 16nm.

Although i think i might know what the problem is the mate who was helping me, he was actual putting the new rings and washers on the injectors and i was removing and reinstalling said i bent one of the coper washes and thought i would striaghten out when torqued down. Fingers corssed thats my issue.

brainboy81 said:

Yes its noisey, was running as sweet as, sounded so much better than it had for a long while and loads of smooth p ower delivery.

The fuel pump had gone quiet again after the rings were initaly changed.


I set the clearences by bottoming out each inhectors and then winding back 1 turn and locking them off to 16nm.

Although i think i might know what the problem is the mate who was helping me, he was actual putting the new rings and washers on the injectors and i was removing and reinstalling said i bent one of the coper washes and thought i would striaghten out when torqued down. Fingers corssed thats my issue.

Click to expand...

Well, I think there's your answer.

There aren't words to describe how careful you need to be doing this job, though as you now know, it isn't difficult.

Critical actions include:

1. suck spilled fuel out of the piston crowns. Use a syringe and a length of windscreen washer tube or similar. If you don't do this the engine may be very slow to start up because it will be flooded, and it might even hydraulically lock-up and cause trouble. Best do it.

2. CLEAN THE INJECTOR SEATS IN THE HEAD. I use an air-jet with a long probe. DO NOT SCRAPE THESE SEATS with any metal implement. They MUST be CLEAN, DRY and OIL FREE. I use a rag with methanol and a stick to get down there, then the air-jet.

3. Clean the bottom ends of the injectors till they are perfectly clean right into the corners. Feel free to use a wire brush. There may be a groove in the flat seat of the injector. If so, clean it out. Once they are perfectly clean, use a little RED Hermetite to fill in the angled corners between the flat seat and the injector nozzle. Just a little mind, enough to fill in the corners. They MUST be clean enough that a new copper washer can slide easily all the way up the tip till it hits the flat seat. If you have to use ANY force or wiggling, it isn't clean enough.

4. Wash the new copper washers in METHS (not petrol!) to de-grease them, and rub a tiny bit of Red Hermetite onto both surfaces, and let them dry off hanging on a wire in a warm place.

5. Rub ordinary grease into the O-ring grooves and fit the new O-rings carefully. make sure they seat right down into the grooves, and leave some grease there.

6. fit a copper washer onto the injector tip and press it well home. It MUST stick in place if the job is to be a good one.

7. fit the injector into the hole and wiggle it down into place, and immediately fit the clamp and tighten it down to at least half its torque.

8. Now do the next one ... and the next ... and when all done, THEN torque them down to a bit UNDER the the required amount. Now go for a cuppa tea, and leave it for half an hour, THEN torque them up to just OVER the value called for. When you do this, make sure the bolt does turn a bit further, and this should ensure enough tension on the bolt and clamp to make enough pressure down on the copper washer to seal it for a long time.

Then do the rest of the job.

Works for me.

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

Well, I think there's your answer.

There aren't words to describe how careful you need to be doing this job, though as you now know, it isn't difficult.

Critical actions include:

1. suck spilled fuel out of the piston crowns. Use a syringe and a length of windscreen washer tube or similar. If you don't do this the engine may be very slow to start up because it will be flooded, and it might even hydraulically lock-up and cause trouble. Best do it.

2. CLEAN THE INJECTOR SEATS IN THE HEAD. I use an air-jet with a long probe. DO NOT SCRAPE THESE SEATS with any metal implement. They MUST be CLEAN, DRY and OIL FREE. I use a rag with methanol and a stick to get down there, then the air-jet.

3. Clean the bottom ends of the injectors till they are perfectly clean right into the corners. Feel free to use a wire brush. There may be a groove in the flat seat of the injector. If so, clean it out. Once they are perfectly clean, use a little RED Hermetite to fill in the angled corners between the flat seat and the injector nozzle. Just a little mind, enough to fill in the corners. They MUST be clean enough that a new copper washer can slide easily all the way up the tip till it hits the flat seat. If you have to use ANY force or wiggling, it isn't clean enough.

4. Wash the new copper washers in METHS (not petrol!) to de-grease them, and rub a tiny bit of Red Hermetite onto both surfaces, and let them dry off hanging on a wire in a warm place.

5. Rub ordinary grease into the O-ring grooves and fit the new O-rings carefully. make sure they seat right down into the grooves, and leave some grease there.

6. fit a copper washer onto the injector tip and press it well home. It MUST stick in place if the job is to be a good one.

7. fit the injector into the hole and wiggle it down into place, and immediately fit the clamp and tighten it down to at least half its torque.

8. Now do the next one ... and the next ... and when all done, THEN torque them down to a bit UNDER the the required amount. Now go for a cuppa tea, and leave it for half an hour, THEN torque them up to just OVER the value called for. When you do this, make sure the bolt does turn a bit further, and this should ensure enough tension on the bolt and clamp to make enough pressure down on the copper washer to seal it for a long time.

Then do the rest of the job.

Works for me.

CharlesY

Click to expand...

Thanks will give it another go today.

CharlesY said:

Well, I think there's your answer.

There aren't words to describe how careful you need to be doing this job, though as you now know, it isn't difficult.

Critical actions include:

1. suck spilled fuel out of the piston crowns. Use a syringe and a length of windscreen washer tube or similar. If you don't do this the engine may be very slow to start up because it will be flooded, and it might even hydraulically lock-up and cause trouble. Best do it.

2. CLEAN THE INJECTOR SEATS IN THE HEAD. I use an air-jet with a long probe. DO NOT SCRAPE THESE SEATS with any metal implement. They MUST be CLEAN, DRY and OIL FREE. I use a rag with methanol and a stick to get down there, then the air-jet.

3. Clean the bottom ends of the injectors till they are perfectly clean right into the corners. Feel free to use a wire brush. There may be a groove in the flat seat of the injector. If so, clean it out. Once they are perfectly clean, use a little RED Hermetite to fill in the angled corners between the flat seat and the injector nozzle. Just a little mind, enough to fill in the corners. They MUST be clean enough that a new copper washer can slide easily all the way up the tip till it hits the flat seat. If you have to use ANY force or wiggling, it isn't clean enough.

4. Wash the new copper washers in METHS (not petrol!) to de-grease them, and rub a tiny bit of Red Hermetite onto both surfaces, and let them dry off hanging on a wire in a warm place.

5. Rub ordinary grease into the O-ring grooves and fit the new O-rings carefully. make sure they seat right down into the grooves, and leave some grease there.

6. fit a copper washer onto the injector tip and press it well home. It MUST stick in place if the job is to be a good one.

7. fit the injector into the hole and wiggle it down into place, and immediately fit the clamp and tighten it down to at least half its torque.

8. Now do the next one ... and the next ... and when all done, THEN torque them down to a bit UNDER the the required amount. Now go for a cuppa tea, and leave it for half an hour, THEN torque them up to just OVER the value called for. When you do this, make sure the bolt does turn a bit further, and this should ensure enough tension on the bolt and clamp to make enough pressure down on the copper washer to seal it for a long time.

Then do the rest of the job.

Works for me.

CharlesY

Click to expand...

Charles

Thanks, that hit the nail on the head 100% perfect advice. Think this should be made a static for how to do the injector washers and rings, this advice was spot on and thanks to the deep clean recommended it worked.

Just done 100 mile run and all looking good.

brainboy81 said:

Charles

Thanks, that hit the nail on the head 100% perfect advice. Think this should be made a static for how to do the injector washers and rings, this advice was spot on and thanks to the deep clean recommended it worked.

Just done 100 mile run and all looking good.

Click to expand...

You'll be an expert at doing this job now!

One tiny particle of carbon on a copper washer and chances are it will fail.

CLEAN is the buzz-word here.

Well Done! (Fingers crossed ...)


CharlesY

Thanks again.