disco not starting, please help!!!

Can anyone help. I've got a disco td5 2001 and it won't start. I brought this after it had been sat for a while due to a broken clutch. I've changed the clutch and put it all back together. Now it won't start, I can hear the fuel pump going and the dash lights up but it dosent even try to start. It also has a brand new battery so can't be that. Any help would be great. Thanks joe

Did you unlock it using the fob?

If yes, then try locking and unlocking it again.

then try to start the engine straight away.

Also, what is the little red LED on the dash doing?

Cheers

my 300 requires a cold boot (disconnect the battery for a while) when the immobilizer plays up.

that said, i think its only happened twice in about 4 years, but something to try.

When you say it wont start, does it turn over but not fire up or does it not turn over? Have you ever heard it running?

julianf said:

my 300 requires a cold boot (disconnect the battery for a while) when the immobilizer plays up.

that said, i think its only happened twice in about 4 years, but something to try.

Click to expand...

Definitely worth a go, had to do this to a friends D2. 5 minutes with the battery disconnected and bingo.

Cheers

neilly said:

Did you unlock it using the fob?

If yes, then try locking and unlocking it again.

then try to start the engine straight away.

Also, what is the little red LED on the dash doing?

Cheers

Click to expand...

I've tried unlocking and locking with the fob and still dosent work. The red led is off somme and on solid at other times?

rigsby999 said:

When you say it wont start, does it turn over but not fire up or does it not turn over? Have you ever heard it running?

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it won't turn over, it dosent even try. No I've never heard it run but was assured it did...but we all know that could be false! Thanks for all your replies. Also the picture of my dash it what it looks like wheb trying to start. And the fuel pump is on constantly.

neilly said:

Definitely worth a go, had to do this to a friends D2. 5 minutes with the battery disconnected and bingo.

Cheers

Click to expand...

also had the battery disconnected over night and that didn't do it. Just gone out to have another play and the alarm was going off and I couldn't stop it with the fob? Any ideas

Not sure it will work,

But do you have the EKA code to try?

Also, when you try to start it do you hear any noise whatsoever? does the starter solenoid engage?

Cheers

neilly said:

Not sure it will work,

But do you have the EKA code to try?

Also, when you try to start it do you hear any noise whatsoever? does the starter solenoid engage?

Cheers

Click to expand...

sorry to sound stupid what is a EVA code? Nope no noise at all, the clock light dims when turning to start but nothing else happens.

Emergency Key Access code.

Definitely worth having for when / if the fobs fail to work. it is a 4 digit code you enter into the door lock.

Disables the alarm and immobiliser.

If it is making the lights dim, when you turn the ignition then I would suggest double checking your battery, D2's are notorious for needing a very good battery to start them.

Also can you check to see if your getting voltage at the starter motor when the ignition is turned?

Cheers

sounds like a crank sensor fault, the wires for the crank sensor may well have been disconnected if you have had the gearbox out.

Oh that sounds like it could be handy, where would it get one from?
I will double check that battery but it's brand new so should be a good one its the 100ah one recommended. I will check voltage at the started tomorrow as it's raining now. Thanks for all the help!

Also do you have the owners manual and workshop manual?

If not then you can download them here , the file you want is rave01.iso
http://www.green-oval.com/data/lr/

EKA, can be got from a number of places.

If you have proof of ownership the your local LR dealer should be able to get it for you.
Off of an online website, who will charge you £20.
( the only problem with the two above is that there is a small risk that a previous owner has changed it, in which case it will not work)
Or, if you know someone with a nanocom they can read it for you if the car is not immobilised. I do not know whether other diagnostics can read it.

Obviously the 12V at the starter should be on the solenoid. LOL.

Cheers

rigsby999 said:

sounds like a crank sensor fault, the wires for the crank sensor may well have been disconnected if you have had the gearbox out.

Click to expand...

Would a crank sensor fault stop it from turning over?

Cheers

I'll go with crank sensor, especially with box being out, however the battery will need to be fully charged, and check the earth to body/engine connection, process of elimination is best way easy to hard.

Grezzer said:

I'll go with crank sensor, especially with box being out, however the battery will need to be fully charged, and check the earth to body/engine connection, process of elimination is best way easy to hard.

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il check the crank sensor first thing in the morning, then il start fault finding. Thanks I presume the picture I put up of my dash is the normal amount of lights before starting? Thanks guys

Well some of the warning lights are the self check , so they turn off after a set number of seconds. The owners handbook explains all that.

Not sure what lights actually show when it is actually turning over / starting as such.

Cheers

The crank sensor would let it crank just not let it start so if it doesnt crank and it's not immobilised first thing is to check the small lucar connector on the starter solenoid cos it used to get loosened

Ok there seems to have been a few inputs here so I think a recap might be in order:

• Main battery.
  Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery hasn't done anything to ease the problem.
  
• Locking and fobs.
  Locking and unlocking with the fob has no effect so here the question must be asked, is the little red LED on the fob lighting when the buttons are pressed. Is the battery in the fob a good one?
  
• Immobiliser.
  The little red LED on the dashboard would appear not to be working as it should. It should be off when the immobiliser is off and it should flash at about once a second when the immobiliser is active. the LED should flash rapidly when the immobiliser is changing its state, either setting on or off or auto setting. An immobliser problem will prevent it from turning over.
  
• Fuel system.
  The fuel pump can be heard running. This is good, it can run for quite a while because the Td5 system is a common rail with electrically fired injectors. The fuel system is high pressure from the pump with the excess fuel being returned from the engine to the tank. So for now, that can be discounted.
  
• Starter and high current circuits.
  The clock dimming when you try to start would indicate a possible battery charge problem, however the earthing between the battery, bodywork and engine block can make all that happen. Since it doesn't even turn over, does the starter solonoid click when you try to start it? While checking the earthing to the engine, it's worth checking all the wiring to the starter motor, it should have a heavy cable from the battery and a lightweight wire which is used to trigger the starter solonoid. The return is via the earth connection to the engine block.
  
• The dashboard lights.
  The lights shown in the picture are definitely not the standard start-up set. After the self test period and before the engine is started , the only lights which should be showing are The battery charge light, the oil pressure light and the red brake light at the top left which should go off when the handbrake is released.
  
• The ABS, TC and hill decent lights are .... you've guessed it, the 3 amigos and the SRS light should also have gone off after about 4 or 5 seconds after moving the ignition switch to position II.

All in all I'd say we have a few problems here and rather than try to make them all fit into one scenario, it's best to treat and repair each as they appear.

So working through everything logically, it's engine first, then 3 amigos then the SRS light.

I forgot to mention the Emergency Key Access code, it should really be available for this kind of job to make sure that the immobiliser has been switched off. As @neilly has already said there are various ways of obtaining it.
Also the crank position sensor, as sierrafery has already said, this item will not stop the engine from turning over, it will however stop it from firing when it does turn over.
I don't know how long you plan to keep your Disco, but you should either consider finding a compatible diagnostic code reader (Nanocom, Hawkeye, Lynx), find a friend who does have a suitable code reader or be prepared to pay for a garage to read the codes for you. Most cheap and cheerful code readers on ebay won't do the job, the diesel Disco didn't become fully OBDII compatible until mid 2004.