Disco 3 (LR3) Disco 3 wont start (HSE TD V6) (Special Program Fault?)

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Pcpilot53

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12
Hi, car has been idle for 1 month, and -7C last night. Turned over 2 or 3 times this morning, then felt like the battery was flat. Hooked up a VW Polo to the battery and got this weird clicking / wont start. There is a message right at the start of the video about a Special Program fault - and the airbag2 light flashes. Complete idiot here - and need some pointers / experience?! Thanks! (Could it be a airbag fuse? airbag light flashes as the only light when i try to start)

PS was going to book it today for a big service with an indie garage near Farrigdon, Oxon - but cant do that till i know i can get it to them :)

PPS cant load the short clip :( [<10MB]
 
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Depends upon the quality of the jump leads and the size of the battery on the Polo. Also if the Disco battery has an internal defect rather than just discharged, you need extra current to overcome the fault.
You could try leaving the jump leads on with the Polo's engine running for 20 minutes before trying to start the Disco, that will give an opportunity to recharge the battery, if it will accept charge.

The SRS and Special programmes message are indicative of excessively low voltage on ignition on & cranking, don't worry about them.
 
The best you can afford - AGM or one stop-start rated if you're feeling flush. the CCA and Ah rating is just as important.
Put your reg into Tayna.co.uk or batterygroup.co.uk and choose the best cost/capacity balance.

But first, get it started and check the terminal voltage to make sure it's charging properly.
 
Any recommendations for a new battery make / model? (thanks for taking time to respond)
Tayna are a pita if you should need to return a battery.
Exide are dog crap.
Yuasa are okay, but mine did get weak after a couple of years, though halfords did change it uneer warranty with no quibbles.
You wont want agm on a d3.
 
The D3 is originally specced for a Lead-Calcium battery, with a higher than usual charge voltage at lower temperatures - an AGM battery can accept the charge profile for Pb-Ca batteries with no issues, unlike EFB or EFB+ (or good old 'standard' lead-acid batteries).
 
The D3 is originally specced for a Lead-Calcium battery, with a higher than usual charge voltage at lower temperatures - an AGM battery can accept the charge profile for Pb-Ca batteries with no issues, unlike EFB or EFB+ (or good old 'standard' lead-acid batteries).
Pretty sure that 15.1 plus volts will not do an agm any favours.
 
Pretty sure that 15.1 plus volts will not do an agm any favours.
LR were specifying AGM as direct replacements for Pb-Ca batteries for warranty claims on D3's, the float voltage is comparable whilst the absorbtion voltage of AGM's is a little lower (0.2V across the battery) this is only really a concern when temperature compensation is applied, which is pretty much a theoretical concern as the finite output of an alternator will be below the Vmax of an AGM most of the time 'with everything on' in winter. It's also worth noting that Ctek & Traction (both JLR approved battery charger / BSU suppliers) use the same charge profile for AGM & Pb-Ca bench charging, only 'standard' and EFB (+) are different. Li-Ion batteries for vehicles have their own charge controller built-in to the battery casing.
 
LR were specifying AGM as direct replacements for Pb-Ca batteries for warranty claims on D3's, the float voltage is comparable whilst the absorbtion voltage of AGM's is a little lower (0.2V across the battery) this is only really a concern when temperature compensation is applied, which is pretty much a theoretical concern as the finite output of an alternator will be below the Vmax of an AGM most of the time 'with everything on' in winter. It's also worth noting that Ctek & Traction (both JLR approved battery charger / BSU suppliers) use the same charge profile for AGM & Pb-Ca bench charging, only 'standard' and EFB (+) are different. Li-Ion batteries for vehicles have their own charge controller built-in to the battery casing.
Have you personally tried an agm on your own d3?
 
Pretty sure that 15.1 plus volts will not do an agm any favours.
Plus 1 , I think the max Vdc for an AGM battery is 14.8vdc , D3 can output up to 15.5vdc so indeed won’t do the AGM much good

seen many try and fit one to there d3 and were soon changing it plus of course JLR specify a lead acid battery

also agree with regards to Tanya , when I had issues with my exide they wanted me to send it back but no courier would accept it , wouldn’t ever buy an exide or online again but from Halfords

my yuasa is around 3 x years old and currently have my CTEK charger hooked up via my 12s socket to keep it fully charged

hope ur good mate
 
Hi, car has been idle for 1 month, and -7C last night. Turned over 2 or 3 times this morning, then felt like the battery was flat. Hooked up a VW Polo to the battery and got this weird clicking / wont start. There is a message right at the start of the video about a Special Program fault - and the airbag2 light flashes. Complete idiot here - and need some pointers / experience?! Thanks! (Could it be a airbag fuse? airbag light flashes as the only light when i try to start)

PS was going to book it today for a big service with an indie garage near Farrigdon, Oxon - but cant do that till i know i can get it to them :)

PPS cant load the short clip :( [<10MB]

hiya

as others have said with regards to getting a multimeter or even a plug in Volt meter that plugs into ur cig lighter

the yuasa 019 from halford is very good , alas the D3’s eat battery’s for breakfast , another vital thing to get is some form of diagnostics , ie, the Autel ap200 is very basic but so handy to keep in ur glovebox , also a decent charger , cant recommend the CTEK enough as u can leave them plugged in for weeks on end , if u have the 12s socket can plug it in there to charge the main battery

Amazon product

alas any weak battery will cause havoc on the electronics of the discovery ,need to keep them at a min of around 12.6 Vdc and approx 14.5 Vdc with the engine running , another reason to get a multimeter , just need to ensure it has dc amps and volts on it

also the earths can fray or break, there’s some under the passenger side wheel arch liner, some of these are used by the ECM, TCM and suspension compressor , drivers side has a larger earth cable , that the starter motor and alternator use , that’s also tucked up behind the wheel arch liner

hope that also helps u
 
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OK, so I got the Yuasa 019 as there is a Halfords at the bottom of the road. I swapped it in and it she started first turn! All the warning lights have gone too. :) I SO thought there was some other problem, but guess the cold and age had finally taken toll on the battery. Thanks so much for everyone's hugely knowledgeable input - i'm sure i will hang around here for other stuff now that i have found the forum.

Finally, i tried to find a cartoon of a small mouse pushing a large elephant up a hill, but couldn't find one quickly (or via Dall.e) but I guess I now understand the difference between the 1.2 polo and the 3tonne Disco :)
 
OK, so I got the Yuasa 019 as there is a Halfords at the bottom of the road. I swapped it in and it she started first turn! All the warning lights have gone too. :) I SO thought there was some other problem, but guess the cold and age had finally taken toll on the battery. Thanks so much for everyone's hugely knowledgeable input - i'm sure i will hang around here for other stuff now that i have found the forum.

Finally, i tried to find a cartoon of a small mouse pushing a large elephant up a hill, but couldn't find one quickly (or via Dall.e) but I guess I now understand the difference between the 1.2 polo and the 3tonne Disco :)

great ur now sorted , managed to find a pic of how ur disco is after getting a new battery, lol

IMG_0433.gif
 
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