Disco 3 (LR3) Disco 3 noise

hi I’m having issues with my d3. As you pull away you hear kind of like a snagging noise the the car jolts a little every time you hear the noise then it will go, it will return at certain speeds usually when hard acceleration is needed but sometimes a change of speed. Also when using any kind of steering lock left or right you get a grinding noise. I’ve tested while in gear and out and it seams to be much the same but less out of gear. The noise I believe is from the back and you can feel it under the seat. I’ve just this morning changed the rear prop hoping that would cure it but it’s the same. I’ve jacked the rear wheels up and tested for bearings and there was zero play. What noises could a failed rear diff make?

Hope someone can help.

Matt

Time for handbrake service, clean and adjust, or sticky calliper pins

Funny you should say handbrake as it was all done 2 weeks ago, has it been wrong? When I put brake on I can hear a “quiet thud” as brake goes on left side.

Simple question, was the nosie there before the rear brakes were done?
Possibe they have over adjusted the handbrake shoes, need to be adjusted until wheel stops rotating, then back off 8 clicks, seems like its to much, buts it is what they like.

No it started about a week after they were adjusted.

Are they capable of making all this noise then?

If I drive real steady on a road I can pretty much get it to not happen but floor it and it’ll click and snag.

Matt BB said:

No it started about a week after they were adjusted.

Are they capable of making all this noise then?

If I drive real steady on a road I can pretty much get it to not happen but floor it and it’ll click and snag.

Click to expand...

Certainly sounds like thats the place to start looking first, could be one of the small srpings come adrift, could be rotten backplates, always suspect what was done the most recently for any noises.
Have you checked the handbrake cables themselves as they wear through the little stainless hooks on the rear lower arms?

Spoke with the mrs last night (as I’m rubbish with times and how long things have been)

she saying it started about 3/4 days after the handbrake was done so what you guys are saying looks promising.

Could a little spring make that much noise though, there’s a fair amount of grinding once on slow speed lock. Then the thuds still certain highway speeds

Matt BB said:

Spoke with the mrs last night (as I’m rubbish with times and how long things have been)

she saying it started about 3/4 days after the handbrake was done so what you guys are saying looks promising.

Could a little spring make that much noise though, there’s a fair amount of grinding once on slow speed lock. Then the thuds still certain highway speeds

Click to expand...

The tell tale for me on mine was when on motorway on cruise at 70 then after a mile or so the car would start to vibrate, back off to 60 then back to 70 again and after a mile or so would start again, stripped no obvious issues, so new shoes and springs and 4 odd years later with just annual check/adjust of freeplay they have been just fine.
So I would saying go and be nice to your garage man and see what he says?

When applying the handbrake how long does the motor run for?

The biggest issue is people dont service/adjust them and then when they go wrong it costs an arm and a leg.

This is what is confusing me as I had not long had the car and my handbrake wouldn’t release so the garage have just put it all back together then 3/4 days later this started.

You hear a short wirring noise while the motor presses the shoes up tight then right at the end of the wirr you hear a light thud is that right?

Matt BB said:

This is what is confusing me as I had not long had the car and my handbrake wouldn’t release so the garage have just put it all back together then 3/4 days later this started.

You hear a short wirring noise while the motor presses the shoes up tight then right at the end of the wirr you hear a light thud is that right?

Click to expand...

No thud on mine, just the motor running, you can tell if they need adjusting as the motor whine goes on for to long.
What parts did they replace/charge you for?

They repaired the actual module so don’t think any new shoes etc went on.

what confuses me is the grinding / vibration on lock, I don’t see how steering lock would make any difference to rear wheels

Matt BB said:

They repaired the actual module so don’t think any new shoes etc went on.

what confuses me is the grinding / vibration on lock, I don’t see how steering lock would make any difference to rear wheels

Click to expand...

I have no idea, can only assume over adjusted?
Have you checked the temps of the wheels after a run of a few miles? not unusual for calliper sliders to seize on thses as nobody bothers to grease them when doing brake pads.