Disco 2 Sunroofs

Hi All. I know this subject has been done to death but can anyone help me, I have a problem with both roofs in that they both open and close ok but on the final closing the little hooks on the rear of the runners are not coming forward and catching on the rear of the runners on the glass to pull the back of the roof down. So the back of the roofs are sitting high. Is there any adjustment that can be made or can anyone recommend someone in the cumbria area that would be able to sort them out. I have the headlining out as I am replacing it and have fitted new seals to the roofs.
Thanks All

Mechanically opening or electrically?

This might help.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/disco-2-sunroof-wont-close-89593/

hi Stanleysteamer forgot to put they are electric roofs
thanks

Seymore said:

hi Stanleysteamer forgot to put they are electric roofs
thanks

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Right.
Mine are mechanical so I don't know much about electric ones.
If they work fine except for just the last little bit, it does sound as if it could just be a matter of cleaning the running surface so that there is nothing to prevent the final action taking plce.
But best of luck with your search.

I don’t understand your description, “the final closing the little hooks on the rear of the runners are not coming forward and catching on the rear of the runners on the glass to pull the back of the roof down”
The glass is lowered at the front is it not?
I’ve completely pulled apart three sunroofs for spares to rebuild two broken sunroofs on a mates D1, what was over and not needed went back on eBay for a nice profit

As a part answer to your questions... No... There is no adjustments other than the alinement of the motor with the drive wheel before reinstalling with the electrical operation.

Thanks. Will have a look at the weekend

Stanleysteamer said:

Right.
Mine are mechanical so I don't know much about electric ones.
If they work fine except for just the last little bit, it does sound as if it could just be a matter of cleaning the running surface so that there is nothing to prevent the final action taking plce.
But best of luck with your search.

Click to expand...

It’s only the method of opening or closing.

discool said:

It’s only the method of opening or closing.

Click to expand...

I have no idea, except that surely there must be sensors to tell the motor(s) to switch off, mustn't there? Or are you supposed to let go the button before something burns out. breaks, or skips off?
Just glad mine are manual, although admittedly it'd be nice to be able to open the rear one without having to get into the seats behind mine when driving!

Stanleysteamer said:

I have no idea, except that surely there must be sensors to tell the motor(s) to switch off, mustn't there? Or are you supposed to let go the button before something burns out. breaks, or skips off?
Just glad mine are manual, although admittedly it'd be nice to be able to open the rear one without having to get into the seats behind mine when driving!

Click to expand...

There’s a notch on the drive wheel that allows and mini micro switch controls the tilt and fully opening, the ECU terminates the supply when the glass is fully closed, simpler to the electric windows, its as simple as that and exactly the same as a manual operation tilt and if required the move to open fully.
I open my sunroofs once a year just to clean around the glass seal, otherwise never opened.

So why would I have them when the disco has A/C ... only because LR didn’t make it an option at the time.

discool said:

There’s a notch on the drive wheel that allows and mini micro switch controls the tilt and fully opening, the ECU terminates the supply when the glass is fully closed, simpler to the electric windows, its as simple as that and exactly the same as a manual operation tilt and if required the move to open fully.
I open my sunroofs once a year just to clean around the glass seal, otherwise never opened.

So why would I have them when the disco has A/C ... only because LR didn’t make it an option at the time.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation.
Totally agree with your final point! Tis stupid isn't it? I also am glad my Anniversary has aircon and no sunroofs!

This happened to my '96 Disco 1. I'd had them both open going to work the previous day and as usual when i got home pressed both buttons until the noise stopped, then got out and went in the house.
The next day at work at lunchtime when walking towards the rear of the car to eat my lunch i noticed the raer one was still sticking up at the back. It must have not closed fully the night before as i dodn't open them that day.
It would fully open and then slide forwards again but not drop down.
Quickly ate lunch then popped down the road to buy a set of allen keys as i'd read online that you can pull the rooflining down a bit and use an allen key on the motor spindle to close it if your motor fails.
Mine wouldn't budge!

I managed to get the glass to lower by hanging out of the door with one finger on the button and after fully opening the sunroof helping it back and down with my other hand. The problem was that it wasn't fully closed!
I tried this a couple of times and i could get it to 98% close but not the last 2 'keep the water out' %.
So when i got home i pulled the connector off the back of the switch so i couldn't forget and open it and applied the first layer of gaffer tape over the joint.
Several layers of tape later i decided to clean off the tape and have another go at closing it. I didn't want to use silicon because i thought at some pint i'd fit a new one. I opened it to break the reinforcing strands of the bits of gaffer tape that was stubbornly refusing to lift off the bodywork. After i'd cleaned it as best as i could i pressed the button and it closed completely!?!?
It hasn't moved since and now i've replaced it with a Disco 2 with NO SUNROOFS!
So NO leaking issues...
From the roof. The back door seal doesn't seem to work 100% at the top.
The TC seems to make odd noises when i think it works.
Makes the same noises when driving over speed bumps/driving off a curb.
The electric leaks out.
Starter motor now makes a clicking noise instead of a whirring noise, when it feels like it.
The heated front screen heats about a two inch strip, in bits, two or three filaments at a time across the whole of the screen.
The central locking can work from thirty feet away, or barely an inch from the body. Switched back to thirty feet away a day or two after i forked out just over £50 for a new ECU.
Hat to put a new front prop on just after buying it. Flew through the MOT just wanting trackrod ends and anti roll bar drop links.
But you know how it is, the more they make you want to scream the more they get under your skin...