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Dinitrol - How important is the drying out stage?

Discussion in 'Defender 90 / 110 / 130' started by SMG, Nov 7, 2019.

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  1. SMG

    SMG Member

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    Hi there
    I want to treat my 2002 TD5 110 CSW chassis to a full DIY dinitrol treatment. Have been reading up on it, and seems recommendation is to jet wash chassis... then steam clean it.... then let it dry out for 4-5 days... then do the treatment.

    Am wondering how essential is the drying out period.. I don't have access to a sheltered garage/workshop, and I doubt it would dry out much on my driveway in autumn. I could wait until late spring, but my current rust proofing is very tatty now.

    What do you think, and is there a fast way to dry it (maybe drive at 60mph for an hour).
    Cheers
    SMG
     
  2. lynall

    lynall Well-Known Member

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    I would say wait until the summer, trap any water at your peril.
    There might be a nice sunny day over the next few weeks, but my gut feeling is it will wont be properly dry until its had a few days or weeks of heat.
     
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  3. mick the builder

    mick the builder Well-Known Member

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    The problem areas are the double skinned parts of the chassis. You may well dry out the main channel but the double skinned area require hot dry air.
     
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  4. Discodevon

    Discodevon Well-Known Member

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    It will dry underneath on you’re driveway, but you won’t be able to drive it for a week though, if a dry day is forecast, remove you’re front bumper to allow the air to flow through the chassis
     
  5. Disco1BFG

    Disco1BFG Well-Known Member

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    Another vote for waiting till the summer.
     
  6. raisingveg

    raisingveg Active Member

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    I agree summer time for the win
     
  7. SMG

    SMG Member

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    OK thanks everyone. I'll wait for summer ;)
     
  8. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    In the mean time keep cleaning it. Old peeling coating that traps water/road salt and or layers of crud are things that get corrosion going.
     
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  9. SMG

    SMG Member

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    Hi Tottot, by cleaning do you mean just quick jet wash? I found abit of a flaky area underneath some semi intact coating behind the front passenger suspension spring - bit scared to poke too hard ;)
     
  10. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Bruhl-Bd12...-Motorcycle-Dryer-With-RCD-Cut-out/1839591711

    Or you could buy a motorcycle type dryer to accelerate drying period. They're very effective as unlike heat guns they circulate large air volume. Blast warm/hot air into each chassis access/drain point for a good amount of time until very hot. This will get chassis totally dry, then treat with Dinitrol, Bilt Hamber chassis treatments
     
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  11. nobber

    nobber Well-Known Member

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    Fire some engine oil onto it, that will far outdo a cavity wax.
     
  12. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    I use engine oil thinned with a bit of diesel. IT still has to be dry for a good job.
     
  13. v8250

    v8250 Well-Known Member

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    The problem with old oil and diesel is that they're both hygroscopic. Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber [and other] products have been specifically designed to 1. have superb seep rate, ala they find every last nook and cranny, 2. they're non-hygroscopic, 3. they stick like s**t to a fur ball [!], and 4. once dried they don't allow masses of wet/damp crud, mud, clay, stones and any other crap we may decide to throw at and into our chassis/box sections to stick to the surface [unlike like oil and diesel].

    I've used both Dinitrol and Bilt Hamber products for many years. They're a little more expensive than some others, but they work :)
     
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  14. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    Engine oil and diesel also works. My 1990 90 is a farm truck lives outside all year near the sea. Still all original chassis and bulkhead that has only had a few minor patch's in exposed bits like ends of bulkhead out riggers.
     
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  15. SMG

    SMG Member

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    My local independent also said to spray engine oil diluted with diesel twice a year, instead of doing dinitrol, because used oil is free. I wasn't so keen on used oil... partly because it's nasty stuff (but I guess I could use fresh oil instead), partly because of the frequency of renewal.

    How often do you reapply Tottot? Also are you spraying just the internals... or are you spraying externals as well?
     
  16. Turboman

    Turboman Rural Activist

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    Used engine oil is fine, provided it is good oil. You probably don't want to use stuff that has been in an engine for years, way past the interval, because it will contain a lot of water.

    However, in the case of a cherished vehicle, I would be tempted to spend the money on the Dinitrol, it is probably even better, and should be a one off application, or at least only every ten years, if used inside a chassis.
    Personally, I paint the outside of the chassis, but the correct grade of Dinitrol or Bildt Hamber should be good too.
     
  17. tottot

    tottot Well-Known Member

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    SMG, I give the landy a thorough clean before MOT and re oiling at the end of summer just after MOT. Have used both used oil and fresh inside and out of chassis. Bulkhead gets new oil in all places I can get to. I go with Turboman with not using oil that has sat about for ages.
    There is a thought that one should not use oil from petrol engines due to higher acid levels. However as I have not had a petrol vehicle for 20 years can not say one way or another.
    Also once oiled up for the winter I do not wash underneath [ may wash and respray an area if say a bush needed doing ] again until spring calving is done and Landy is no longer getting plastered with mud and sh1t.:D
     
  18. Discodevon

    Discodevon Well-Known Member

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    Agreed with these lads the oil is the best way, dinatrol looks good but how long will it last, you can mix a little black wax oil with the mix to have the black finish, wax oil alone doesn’t creep well this time of year as it cold, and guess the dinatrol will be just the same
     
  19. nobber

    nobber Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't worry about acid content, I have worked on plenty of petrol vehicles that have had oil leaks and they have not disintegrated due to acid eating them away. I also wouldn't worry about moisture in the oil, I have never , ever seen a piece of metal covered in oil start to rust, ever.
     
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  20. nobber

    nobber Well-Known Member

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    Oil will creep, In fact it creeps exceptionally well, if you have ever put an oil covered funnel or canister upside-down in a drip trey for any length of time you will know what I mean. Diesel is a great penetrating oil, if it can creep into the threads of tight bolts it can creep into the rust inside a chassis. Keep in mind the coating doesnt have to be 5mm thick, in fact inside a chassis it doesnt have to be anything more than a smear.
     
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