Difficulty starting the TD5

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
5

5tox

Active Member
Posts
165
Hi all,

Recently sold the 90 and bought a 2002 discovery TD5 facelift, the truck was cheap because when first started it sounded like it was misfiring, a quick blip of the throttle and she ran sweet again for the rest of the day.
Well as a few days passed the problem seemed to be happening more frequently, im now at the stage where the truck wont even run unless my foot is flat on the accelerator before turning the key, once i get it running it's absolutely fine.
Having never driven another TD5 i'd say its quite underpowered for a 5 cylinder.

The guy i bought the truck from was a nice bloke who tried explaining that the issue started after a head gasket change, apparently the guy who did the head gasket said it was a problem with a blocked fuel gallery or something along those lines which was easily fixed but meant the head had to come back off.

Is this a common fault, and can anybody expand on what the problem is?
I'd like to get it sorted but having done lots of searches online i cant find any threads which seem to cover this issue

Any assistance is much appreciated.
 
Hi, first of all leave the throttle alone while cranking, it's electronic and even if you have the impression it helps it can do more harm and if you used it much while cranking this might have worsen things, make a test tomorrow before the first start: just put ignition on II, fully depress the throttle 6 times consecutively, wait aprox 3 minutes untill the MIL warning stops flashing then crank it without touching the pedal... according to the result will speak then,

btw check for oil in the ECU red plug too
 
Tried that trick this morning but unfortunately still showing the same symptoms, turning the key to position 3 (while leaving the accelerator alone) the starter motor turns the engine which then dies as soon as you let go of the key.
 
It seems that somehow air is getting into the fuel rail or as said there's a blockage somewhere, you should do somehow to check the fuel pressure at the FPR
 
Havent quite worked out yet how im going to check the fuel pressure at the FPR but i did have the fuel pump out this evening, disassembled, cleaned and re-assembled, i was genuinely shocked at the amount of black gunge clogging up the internal filters.
Took her for a spin and she feel far more responsive, i'll try starting her in the morning and see if its made a difference

Ordered a service kit today so i'll have the fuel filter replaced over the weekend too.

I also whipped off the red ECU plug to find a bit of oil, cleaned it all out with brake cleaner and re-assembled, just ordered an injector loom and fuel injector seal / washer kit
 
Those are all good moves, you might get to the expected result after all was done cos the black gunge in the pump is usually sign of leaking copper washers as the fuel is mixed with combustion gas then, replace the air bleed valve in the filter head's rear outer port too(WJN500110)
 
Ta mate ill take a look

Didn't order genuine, but bearmach. used their stuff on all my old disco's and defender without any problems
 
sierrafery said:
Those are all good moves, you might get to the expected result after all was done cos the black gunge in the pump is usually sign of leaking copper washers as the fuel is mixed with combustion gas then, replace the air bleed valve in the filter head's rear outer port too(WJN500110)
Click to expand...
ive allways under stood its the diesel bug same as is common in marine engines,
 
neilly said:
And do you have a recommendation??

Cheers
Click to expand...
You could try one of your local-ish boat chandlers, the Thames might be fairly close!
Or
https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_sacat=0&_nkw=diesel+bug+treatment&_frs=1
The "Marine 16" stuff looks OK.
The "diesel bug" is a bacteria thought to live in the interface between the diesel fuel and any moisture or water that might have accumulated in the bottom of the tank. It is also thought that the increase in temperature of the fuel returning to the tank from the engine could aid the growth of the bacteria.
 
Last edited:
Yesterday i fitted new diesel filter, re-seated the injectors with seals and washers and stuck a new injector loom on it.
Unfortunately this morning when starting i'm still no further forward, woiuld the next step perhaps be the rebuild the FPR with new seals etc.?

I'm starting to run out of idea's, stuck it on diagnostics lastnight and its showing no error codes
 
no i only tried once, tomorrow morning i shall try 2 cycles and see how i get on.

Did a few tip runs in the truck earlier (approx 25 miles) went back to the truck 6 hours later and she fired up straight away, i' guarantee when i try in the morning she wont start without hitting the gas pedal
 
As long as you drove it 25 miles it's useless to purge it unless the washers were not fitted with EXTREME cleaneliness, were the washers genuine?, also did you readjust the injector clearances after the new washers were fitted?

a new air bleed valve in the rear outer port of the fuel filter head would be a good move(WJN500110)
 
I dont think the washers were genuine, just off ebay
i did clean out the injector ports though and blew them out with the air compressor.

The guy i bought the truck from did mention that it may have been a blocked drilling in the head?
 
IMO if nothing will help with this starting issue better redo the washers with genuine ones cos i've seen cases when pattern washers did not seal well
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Rich W
Disco 2 TD5 camshaft rotation torque
Replies
5
Views
329
Rich W
Rich W
bahteles
Disco 2 Discovery td5 auto cutting out after 2.500 rpm [Solved]
Replies
15
Views
2K
Steven Sheppard
S
Corne215
Not starting in the morning
Replies
13
Views
1K
tilly2
T
H
Lost Key Inside the car
Replies
0
Views
236
haggishunter
H
S
Cylinder Head leaking smoke
Replies
10
Views
416
Saxpg
S
Back
Top