DIFFICULTY CHANGING GEAR PG1 freelander 2L rover diesel

Hi, I have changed the clutch, slave and master cylinder and thrust bearing, also slave mounting bracket but slight difficulty in selecting gears.
I have used 70 90 gear oil in gearbox and the correct fluid in the transfer box.
My hippo (Elle) is running in 2wd as my VCU is poorly but think I have used the wrong oil in the gearbox. Would the wrong oil actually cause diffulty in selecting gears, more so in reverse.

Any help is appreciated please.

Darren
Should I just burn the thing, as don't really want to drop gearbox again for the second time

My experience with the same g'box [ albeit with a K series 1.8] -
My gear changes 'catch' a bit when I change 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd, most noticeable if I hurry those changes. I replaced the g'box oil hoping that it would improve things but sadly it hasn't. I used a Penrite oil which met the spec's for my FL1. I've also changed the IRD and diff' oils as well.

The problem could be a matter of adjustment perhaps on the mechanical side, it could be as simple as a bent/distorted bracket on the g'box itself.
Could it also be a worn clutch? - perhaps unlikely.
Could it be the selector linkage that needs adjustment?

Could others advise on the last two points please?

It's not a major problem for me as I'm no racing driver and tend to get rolling in first then select 2nd fairly promptly...

It's a brand new 3 part clutch, hydraulics and slave cylinder bracket.

Not sure how I can adjust the selector linkage as the split pin only goes in one way and no adjustment as far as I can see.
It just goes through the selector arm from the gear lever, over the shaft on the gearbox and you pop the pin in from the bottom.

Your thoughts again please.. Maybe change the oil to thicker / thinner oil?

Daz40 said:

It's a brand new 3 part clutch, hydraulics and slave cylinder bracket.

Not sure how I can adjust the selector linkage as the split pin only goes in one way and no adjustment as far as I can see.
It just goes through the selector arm from the gear lever, over the shaft on the gearbox and you pop the pin in from the bottom.

Your thoughts again please.. Maybe change the oil to thicker / thinner oil?

Click to expand...

Grade of oil - there is only one grade specified Texaco MTF94 which seems hard to get. Like I said I used a Penrite oil, Transgear semisynthetic 75W/80.

Re selector linkage, yes I think you are correct there - unlikely to be a problem.

Is the clutch actuating arm nice and free, did the clutch plate slide freely up and down the input shaft splines when you fitted it.

if the gear selection is like stirring pudding, then it's a mechanical issue - either the UJ is worn, or where it links onto the gearbox itself, is worn.

Mine was the latter, and was fixed with an angle grinder, and a bolt




Or... if the clutch only seems to release when your foot is pushing the pedal through the floor, then it's one of 3 things:

1: air in the hydraulics - which is a PITA, as they're not designed to be bled... (I've had a part fabricated to get around this, just need to fit it)

2: clutch arm is seizing, and the welds are breaking. Remove the gearbox, replace the arm, and grease thoroughly.

3: the clutch diaphragm is going "soft", so the fingers don't transmit the effort into releasing the clutch, they just waggle. Only fix is a new clutch

Daz40 said:

It's a brand new 3 part clutch, hydraulics and slave cylinder bracket.

Not sure how I can adjust the selector linkage as the split pin only goes in one way and no adjustment as far as I can see.
It just goes through the selector arm from the gear lever, over the shaft on the gearbox and you pop the pin in from the bottom.

Your thoughts again please.. Maybe change the oil to thicker / thinner oil?

Click to expand...

The use of standard 75w90 gear oil can cause the box synchro rings balk. This is worse in a gearbox that has seen a good few miles. The synchro rings have tiny grooves to break through the oil film quickly. Heavy grades of oil prevent this happening, hence a difficulty getting it into gear. It gives a symptom similar to a semi-disenguaged clutch. The correct MTF94 oil is similar in viscosity to 10w40 engine oil. 10w40 can be used for topping up if MTF94 is unavailable.

Hi all.
The clutch release arm, release bearing fork mechanism and the copper realise arm sleeves were replaced when I did the brand new clutch replacement. The gear stick is not flopping around so I don't suspect wear in the UJ.. The split pin that goes into the gearbox selector shaft is very tight, no play at all.

I'm suspecting oil grade is wrong.. Can I just dump the 75w90 oil out and fill box with 10w40 engine oil as I don't really want to go out and buy the correct grade of oil at a huge price, only to find the box is U/S. If the 10w40 works better, I'll then go out and buy the correct grade oil from landy.

Now this may not be related but I have rear parking sensors on Ellle, sometimes when selecting reverse, the reverse lights don't come on, and the reverse parking sensors fail, even though she is in reverse and moves backwards. The switch is fine that operates the lights, what I'm trying to say is, is it possible for the incorrect oil to stop the gearbox fully engaging reverse thus not operating the switch to trigger the lights to come on? I'm guessing so!!

Thanks everyone.

How many km / miles has this vehicle done?

You mentioned a "...slight difficulty in selecting gears." Would that mean a roughness when moving the selector through the 'gate' as what I experience? Or are the gears grinding...

Oil: The MTF94 oil works well in that g'box. Other oils may cause problems down the line by effecting plastic components in the g'box. 10W/40 was intended as a top-up. You could use it but you may set yourself up for problems later.

mine has done 133K miles HTR. The problem is when I change gears through the gate. Once in gear its fine, no grinding etc. It just catches when selecting gears.
The clutch is disenging ok, as I can pull up to a stop in any gear and there is no sign of it creeping forward so its disengaging the clutch ok.

Its similuar to you, that if I race into each gear, it catches... But slow gear changes waiting that little bit longer before I move the gearlever overcomes the problem.

When selecting reverse, I have to wait about half a second before selecting reverse, otherwise it wont engage correctly and has on 2 occasions jumped out of reverse.
Thanks

Hiya, I changed my gear box oil Sunday with MTF94. I had the same problem it's a nightmare to get hold of in the end I got it from my local landrover £9.98 per litre I got 3 bottles as it requires 2.1 ltr to fill it up. My gears play up like that as well I think it's the selector fork on mine so I'm gonna get a replacement of the net think there about £35 ish comes with bolts instead of rivets. Maybe try this on yours first.


HTH

If it's jumping out on occasions then something's not right. Could be something worn inside or perhaps the linkage not engaging that gear fully.
Perhaps have another careful look at the gear lever and its linkage to satisfy yourself that all is as it should be there.

Gearboxes have defined symptoms for specific problems. Baulking, or difficulty selecting gears is a synchro problem. If only 1 or 2 gears are affected (normally 2nd and 3rd) then the synchro rings are worn. If all gears are affected, this is normally attributed to box oil. Jumping out of 1 gear is often a detent spring or locking bar. Jumping out of more than 1 gear is often a worn thrust washer. Whine in neutral is the input shaft bearing. While while moving is normally the main shaft bearings.
With all gearbox problems, the first thing to do is get the correct type of oil in there. From then on further diagnosis may be required.

Changed my gear oil for MTF94 and all is well.. I did let the new 75w90 oil drain for an hour to totally rid the wrong oil. Also when filling, I actually squirted 3 ltrs in, wack the plug back in, then waited 30 mins to settle. Then removed the filler plug and let it find its right level (until it stopped dripping, then replaced the plug. I did this to remove all the wrong spec oil and now my box is OK.

Thanks guys for all your most welcomed comments and reply's :tea: