Defender TD5 Fuel pump pipe removal - Help!!

Hi

In an attempt to cure a non-working fuel gauge on my 99 TD5 110 Defender (having checked the gauge itslf it appears ok), I have now dropped the tank to remove the pump and sender and check it out, but I can't undo the 4 fuel pipes as I am not sure how they unclip and don't want to damage them. Can anybody help please? The pipes appear to have some sort of spring plastic clip on them where they push into the couplings on the pump, am I correct and which way should these spring clips (if appropriate) be pushed, squeezed etc?

I would reeeeaaaallllly appreciate any help any of you experts can give me.

Thanks

Ian

Didn't get any replies to my question about this so I had another go after a good night's sleep! - Always works for me!

Anyway the trick is to push on the pipes to relieve any tension and then squeeze the coloured spring clips inwards towards the pipe (if you get my drift). With no tension on the pipes the clips were easyish although awkward to squeeze, then I pulled on each pipe in turn and they withdrew from the pump couplings.

Hope this tip is useful for anyone else (un)lucky enough to have the same problem.

Cheers
Ian

Thanks for tip but to late though, I wasn't as patient as you, exactly same situation I had to remove tank as I'm about to change rear cross member. Well thought it was something I could resolve later on and used violence to remove couplings whatever I did it didn't work. A Swedish say is; if violence doesn't help - use more violence. Nevertheless I have managed to get new pipes with new clips for the sum of 130 pounds.. it costs to be on top and its more than what I pay for the new x member.

The fuel pipe connections on the TD5 pump are delicate especially as they get older and more brittle.

Thats why I cut an access hole in the floor so that I could release the pipes BEFORE trying to move/drop the tank or to pull the pump out.

When Pressbrake did my cross member I took the whole floor panel out so that we could lift the tank out through the back. It made welding so much easier because access was much improved. I can also now get to things such as the A frame mounts simply by removing the floor panel which is now held in place by self tappers instead of rivets.

turns out the connectors are the same as the astra fuel pump so f you brake them, and you dont wanna pay the main stealer 500+ for the full new line (each!) any breakers yard has em

Worth knowing.

Interesting Seems worthwhile to take out floor panel, but Astra ?! Is it Opel astra , is Vauxhall Astra in uk or am I totally lost ?

Taking the floor panel out for the first time required drilling out several million (or so it seemed) rivets. Took me a couple of lazy hours to do. After that its the work of a few minutes to whiz the self tappers out with my cordless Dewalt.

mats said:

Interesting Seems worthwhile to take out floor panel, but Astra ?! Is it Opel astra , is Vauxhall Astra in uk or am I totally lost ?

Click to expand...

Opel and vauxhall are one and the same.

The opel version of the astra used to be called the kadett

I cut a hole in my floor to change my pump too.

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f67/fitting-td5-110-inspection-hatch-fuel-pump-181754.html

Ok thanks Kadett is common here. Even if Opel had better days.

I have done some research. Plastic fittings to the fuel pump (VDO)are manufactered by Norma Group, seems to be a big firm supplying automotive industry. The fitting ,clip and spigot, is branded NormaQuickS and the hose is called NormaFlex. There is also a splice fitting in this product range. In my case it is the male spigot fixed in hose that is broken, female connection fixed in the pump is ok. So what I need is the male spigot 8 mm a piece of hose 12 mm and the splice fitting 8 mm. Still I have to find a vendor that sells this in "pieces" I have requested a list of resellers from Norma Group. It has to be less than the amounts I have seen here on site for complete pipe clusters at 300 pounds.��