Defender pulling left, worse when braking

Hi, I've a problem with my 90 pulling left, affected by road camber, I've checked everything and finally found the distance between front and rear hubs is greater on the passenger side to the drivers side by approx 0.5 cm.
is this within tolerances and what is the best fix? The bushes on radius arms are all newish within 12 months anyway and are super pro poly bushes.
At the moment hitting standing water is very scary and I'm hoping this is also the cause of my problems. Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions.
Tom

Check brakes not sticking first.
Check hubs and track rod ends
Then if lifted fit adjustable panard rod

Sounds like brake is binding.

Hi, thanks but done all that, new calipers front and back, rebuilt swivels and new drag link and track rod with Hd greasable tre's. No lift. No play in bearings and as smooth as a baby's behind. Any idea about the difference in length between hubs? This is all I can find wrong.

Couple of thoughts, but first I'll say that I have no idea whether both axles should be exactly the same length.

Don't know how you measured it, but if it was rim to rim, have you checked that all the wheels are the same part number/offset?

Secondly, I have had one of a set of four brand new tyres cause a car to veer to the side it was fitted to. That took a bit of swapping around to prove and get it changed for a different one.

It's interesting that you have measured the distance between hubs and noted the radius arm bushes have been replaced. Because, as stated, a binding brake or tracking issues would be the first thing to check. Were all of the bushes, axle end and chassis end changed? Have you checked that each bush on chassis end has been tightened the same? How much thread is pulled through each nut? Were the trailing arm bushes changed too? 5mm over 90" doesn't sound alot, but to be honest I don't know if it would affect the steering in the way you describe.

Thanks again, all wheels same and have been on for 18 months with no issues. I measured hub centre to hub centre but it was only a rough measurement. Im hoping to ramp it and get proper measurements axle to axle, and check ive not got a twist.
All bushes were replaced radius and trailing arms, axle and chassis ends and were all torqued up to correct setting, i will measure thread protruding and see if any difference there.
I will take another look at brakes anyway as this seems to be everyones first guess, but these are all new calipers pads and discs front and back, also master cylinder changed at the same time and brake servo working fine.

Did you notice my comment about rogue tyres. Swapping them all side for side would highlight that problem.

Yeah, sorry. Ive rotated tyres, and also tried another set but made no difference at all. Is a good job love defenders as if it was anything else it would be in the back of the papers by now.

A frame joint?

All new bushes in that also but something I havnt checked. You thinking ball joint? Not getting any knocking, but worth a check. I did notice today that the bolt through passenger side radius arm bush on rear of axle was slack(very slack), ive torqued up but pulling still there. Thanks for replies though.

Any steering play? also check for play in wheel bearings, had a similar prob after new fitted bearings on front hubs bedded in and created some play.
Re-packed and tightened up and prob went.

Thanks Steve, No play in steering, and bearings are good. No movement in hubs at any position.

If all ok and brakes fine, and sounds like you have just about exhausted all the usual culprits its sounding like a geometry issue.
When did this appear? just trying to see if it was ok until X or Y was replaced or maybe a heavy hit while off roading?

Yeah, Ive put up with it for a while, doing different things has helped but never cured it. Steering damper amplifies the problem, but it definatly is still there without damper.
As my original post stated, geometry is out as distance between hubs is greater on drivers side by approx 0.5 cm, not sure how to rectify this maybe washers on chassis end of radius arm in front of bush? But then not sure if this is a cause either. Nothing looks obviously bent.

T26HOM said:

Yeah, Ive put up with it for a while, doing different things has helped but never cured it. Steering damper amplifies the problem, but it definatly is still there without damper.
As my original post stated, geometry is out as distance between hubs is greater on drivers side by approx 0.5 cm, not sure how to rectify this maybe washers on chassis end of radius arm in front of bush? But then not sure if this is a cause either. Nothing looks obviously bent.

Click to expand...

Adjustable panard rod as I suggested before

Is it worse when accelerating or when you take foot off accelerator? if it is on the latter try with clutch in as you take foot off accelerator to coast along.

I took an adjusable panhard rod off when i removeved lift kit but dont see how that would help im not lifted and its more front pasenger wheel needs to move forward not out. It certainly pulls when accelerating hard, and definatly when braking either hard or not. Will try coasting tomorow and report back.

Going back to the brake binding theory, it's worth having a look to see whether all the discs are running true and that they're all within tolerance as regards thickness. Even though the brakes are new-ish, it's worth checking that the pistons are moving freely. Maybe the brakes are grabbing more on one side than the other?

Another possibility is the roads. How rutted are they round your way? I thought there was something wrong with mine on a bit of the M5 near Worcester. Then I did the same drive one day with the sun shining in low from the west and saw how there were distinct tramlines where the tarmac had worn and distorted in the inside lane. That was why it seemed to have a mind of its own.

i would loosen all the suspension arms and mounts , jack it up and put it down , drive it forward and backwards a bit , jack it up and down again then torque to correct value.

ideally i would have a 2/4 post ramp to do the lift part. Get all the suspension into a natural position , its easy to get it wrong and induce a twist into the axles by tightening it in an unnatual position .

Ive just been through thsi on my rebuild.

First drive down the road i thought i was driving a crab steer JCB !