Defender pulling left, worse when braking

Happens on every road, even crosing onto opposite side of road causes pull to left so not camber.
Top drive, I will try this too. Although no play in steering box, is it possible the box can cause a pull to left itself? The box is centered properly, with drag link and track rod at appropriate lengths, but wondering if there may be a valve inside the box restricting fluid flow in one direction causing more pressure to one side? Clutching at straws here but that could be why the damper amplifies problem?

I've read right through again, and see that I misunderstood what you were measuring.

Short of it being an out of true chassis or bent axle, this has to be something to do with radius arms doesn't it?

You mention removing a lift kit. If this involved changing castor-correcting arms, is there any chance the the replacements were not identical? Likewise the bushes. I'd be checking the 'installed length' of all four arm and outer end bush assembles, looking at the total length from the axle to the chassis bracket surface. If you find a difference, then look at what is making the difference - is it the arm, or the length of the bush?

Agree with above, if its not a a scraping binding brake it can be a geometry issue as I mentioned. Hence asking about the prob while accelerating or throttling off etc as this would show slack in bushes and movement in rad arms and even axle mounts.

So, an update for you. Took the radius and trailing arms off and straight away the problem was obvious, off side radius arm to chassis bush was faulty. It appears to be softer than all the other bushes and had compressed further before being at appropriate torque. Bush changed and all is well now apart from a noisy rear brake. The ongoing project that comes with owning a defender. Thanks for all comments and help here.

So does that take care of the difference in wheelbase between the two sides too?

Brown said:

So does that take care of the difference in wheelbase between the two sides too?

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I have done many full geometry checks on land rovers and they all (beam axle) have different wheelbase each side some RR classics were nearly 3/4" but it didn't seem to affect pulling to one side. Many cars have different wheel base each side some used to have torsion bars on the rear that ran across the car and one was infront of the other. As long as the castor, camber and tracking are ok they generally run straight.

To be honest, I didnt measure again as it was running true and took for granted this was the cause for different lengths. I will take another measure next time its on the ramp to see.

owl said:

I have done many full geometry checks on land rovers and they all (beam axle) have different wheelbase each side some RR classics were nearly 3/4" but it didn't seem to affect pulling to one side. Many cars have different wheel base each side some used to have torsion bars on the rear that ran across the car and one was infront of the other. As long as the castor, camber and tracking are ok they generally run straight.

Click to expand...

Yes of course, they don't have to be in a perfect rectangle. I seem to remember there was a 70s Renault that had one back wheel further forward than the other to accommodate the fuel tank. But I was thinking that if one of T26HOM's bushes was squashed up so that the axles weren't parallel it might make the car veer to one side even if the front wheels seemed to be at dead centre. Anyway, sounds like it's much better now.

Don't ignore the fact that two different bushes will probably also compress differently under braking and acceleration, meaning that the axle itself will be 'steering'.

Glad its sorted, we all learn as well as throwing in the ideas so happy overall that we had a good idea of trials and remedies, cheers for updating on this its all adding to our group knowledge