Defender Locks

Hello all,

I have recently bought my Defender and when I parked up today and got out I didn't realise I'd left the keys in the ignition and managed to lock the drivers door with a house key. Is there something I'm doing wrong? I can do the same on the passenger door.

I'm a newbie to all things Land Rover so might be something simple?

Many thanks.

The locks when new aren't exactly brilliant. When they're worn they're pathetic.

Thanks for the reply.

What would you advise?

New set of lock barrels to start with (they are fairly cheap)

That's good news.

And how easy are they to fit? Sadly I'm not very mechanically minded.

quite easy the hardest bit is removing and refitting door card, undoing the cam screw connecting the linkage to lock allows barrel to be pulled out

Thanks for the help guys. I might need to get someone or a place to do it.

Any recommendations for a place in London or someone on here do a homer on it for some cash?

Thank you!

As already stated, they are pretty poor even when new (whether Genuine or aftermarket) so you might want to consider a different type of lock altogether? Optimill sell a billet handle assembly C/W security lock, not cheap but the are a far better option than the original locks.

And before any says that you can just pop the window and loft the lock tab, yes you can on most vehicles but it is easy enough to disable the catch so it is key locking only (as on my soft-top).

invest your money in a disk lock instead.

IamRobbie said:

invest your money in a disk lock instead.

Click to expand...

Why instead?

Most people (well, me certainly) prefer a layered approach so high security door-locks, battery isolator, column lock, immobiliser, peddle lock, Disklok, tracker etc are all there (and used all the time).

I had same problem with mine. I bought new barrels... Same thing with those too. So I removed the barrels completely, popped a bolt in the hole and have a plastic grommet type thing covering the bolt. I fitted central locking so rely solely on that. I also removed the inside door catch/popper

Litch said:

Why instead?

Most people (well, me certainly) prefer a layered approach so high security door-locks, battery isolator, column lock, immobiliser, peddle lock, Disklok, tracker etc are all there (and used all the time).

Click to expand...

Well if you wanna go with all that and have the funds to afford it all in one go then by all means go for it,

I have changed my door locks and whilst it is nice to be able to lock my doors with a key instead of my finger it doesnt stop me checking to see if she's still there last thing at night, whenever i wake up in the night and first thing in the morning.....

Best thing i did was disk lock as I know they seem to work well, a tracker and the fact its insured.....

I found a pedal lock to be a pain in the ass to keep taking off and on and would really like an x end pedal lock that just slaps down into the floor, but again its down to funds..

I have always been very particular and use security devices every time I get out of the vehicle:-
Paying for fuel - remove battery isolator key and lock doors.
Popping in for a paper - as above plus pedal lock (X-Eng).
Leaving vehicle for more than 2-minutes - as above plus Disklok.
Parked up at home - all of above plus a pair of Centinal security posts.
Along with the permanently fitted devices I believe I have done all I can.

Back to the original thread.
Yes the original locks are very poor whether new / old / genuine or pattern.

Wow, that's a lot of security! Is it gold plated?

I've seen farm yakkers round here with a gate bolt and padlock.

huffhuff said:

I had same problem with mine. I bought new barrels... Same thing with those too. So I removed the barrels completely, popped a bolt in the hole and have a plastic grommet type thing covering the bolt. I fitted central locking so rely solely on that. I also removed the inside door catch/popper

Click to expand...

Did the same bar removing the internal poppers. Didnt see any reason for doing that! I left the rear door on a key incase the central locking goes wrong.

Locked or not you can rip the door handles off and unlock it from there. As mentioned its better to have layered security.

bankz5152 said:

Did the same bar removing the internal poppers. Didnt see any reason for doing that! I left the rear door on a key incase the central locking goes wrong.

Locked or not you can rip the door handles off and unlock it from there. As mentioned its better to have layered security.

Click to expand...

Stops the old coat hanger trick (fully appreciate you can just bend the door back) but more importantly, it stops more rattles

Fattylewis said:

Wow, that's a lot of security! Is it gold plated?

Click to expand...

No but it is worth a lot to me.

It is fully insured (with an agreed value policy) but that is not the point, it is MY vehicle that I have owned for over 16-years and know every inch. I have rebuilt & modified it and would hate to loose it as to me, it is one of a kind (as I am sure other peoples vehicles are to them).

Then again, I have always been a bit anal about security whether it is the house, bikes or cars.