Defender Bender: My 110

its not part of an injector ,they are all steel, its not part of a tdi that i can think of

i concur think its an oil can tip :rolly:

jamesmartin said:

its not part of an injector ,they are all steel, its not part of a tdi that i can think of

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Oh yeah, just looked at it on the big screen and you're right. Maybe it is an oil can tip then!

Well, some progress at least. Today I removed the front panel, rad, and intercooler to get at the crank pulley. No chance I would have been able to get the puller/holder bolts in otherwise, would have been a whole load of faff.
Got the holder on, and..... Can't get the bloody crank pulley nut undone, even with my biggest breaker bar. Need to either get a scaff pole on the bar, or an impact gun on it, neither of which are to hand. At least the rain held off though!
At least when I put it back together I can grease up all the bolts etc.

Is that a home made pulley locking tool or did you buy it?

It looks like the main dealer tool a lot

DefenderPilot said:

Is that a home made pulley locking tool or did you buy it?

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I bought it from ebay, think it may have been the same ad as this:
LAND ROVER 300tdi CRANK ANTI ROTATION LOCKING TOOL for PULLEY REMOVAL LRT 12 080 | eBay

A mate of mine came round with his breaker bar, which turned out to be the same as my one. You could see it bending a lot under the tension but still it wouldn't budge. We needed more.
So we borrowed a piece of scaff tube and... broke the breaker bar.


Whoops.

Hunted around in said friend's car and he happened to have his blowtorch with him, so put some heat on the pulley, my breaker bar on with the scaff, one of us pushing and the other pulling, and BANG it finally undid. Phew.



I got my little puller tool I got from Paddocks (Comes with the locating pins to help timing the engine) and pulled the crank pulley off, had to stick a few sockets in the puller to act as washers though as they bolts are slightly too long.

Finally got to the point where I could take the timing belt over off, expecting to see trashed belt and timing way out.


Nope, that belt looks very much intact. Replaced it anyway as I had all the bits to hand along with two new idlers.

The FIP timing was out, to the point where I could not get the locating pin in. I assume this was done by Allard. Since you can adjust the FIP timing with the cover on, I figured if I reset it to standard then it's at least a known thing I can work with, and I can always advance it at a later stage.

The mystery continues but at least the old girl/boy is getting a bit of maintenance along the way.

Timing has been set, and new belt tensioned to 11nm as per the instructions. New gasket on the cover, pulley back on. Just need to reassemble the front end, refit the radiator and intercooler, and fit my new pushrods and old rocker shaft, and see if it will fire up.

To check that I'm not being a complete dunce, I have chucked a jerry can of fuel in, although having run out of fuel before, the way it conked out was nothing like the sputtering/stalling I had previously.

arrrghhhh... missed the delivery for the replacement external crank pulley (This one is more than a little tired and is also dented along one side). Will see if they re-deliver tomorrow.

Have put it all back together, reconnected intercooler, filled the rad up, cranked and cranked and it finally sputtered into life... sort of. Idle is extremely lumpy and there is tons of smoke coming from the exhaust (a leak in the exhaust isn't helping matters much as the engine bay fills with smoke).
Wonder if it's the FIP timing or I've managed to set the timing a tooth out. Hope it's the former as I did turn the engine over twice by hand and the marks lined up.

Well, the post yielded a new harmonic balancer, so I fitted it today. I must say, having the proper tools for jobs like this just makes everything so much easier. The pulley holder/brace thing and the timing kit with puller meant the whole job took next to no time at all.
Next, I moved on to the smoke and chuntering idle. Again, the timing kit was brilliant. Just screwed the flywheel pin into the wading plug housing, turned the engine on the crank and it locks in place at TDC, no faff at all.
Cracked open the FIP inspection cover and used the pin in the kit to hold advance the timing a bit. Started it up and smooth idle, no smoke, but a test drive showed a fair amount of diesel knock, so knocked it back a little bit and so far, so good.
Phew!
Never did find out what went wrong in the first place. Am strongly suspecting it was a lack of fuel, which makes me an idiot, but at least I've replaced the timing belt, which was long overdue, and a bunch of other parts.

Well...

A while back I changed the door hinges as it was intolerable trying to live with the door having sagged so much.
The whole bottom of the door frame needs replacing, but that's a job for another day.




Today I greased the swivels and changed one of the rear wheel bearings.
Lost my guide and may have done it a bit wrong, so wanted to ask. Is it going to be really bad that I fitted an inner and outer seal instead of an inner seal and the big washer on the outside? I've gone and fitted a seal, with a smaller washer, then the nut, then the locking washer, then the second nut.
As far as I understand it, this is the setup on Defenders with drum brakes anyway?

Got home and found the P gasket is leaking... great.

Turned out the bearings in the water pump had gone, which explained why it wasn't leaking when the engine was running.
Today's issue was a loud squeaking noise from the hub when decelerating - think the hub may not have enough grease in so need to re-pack it ASAP.

A few things ticked off the 'snag list' at the weekend.

Got the old thing on the ramp


Horrible old brakes in situ


Had new discs, calipers, pads and bearings to go in - My original bearing fix on the right hand side was pretty poor, so we took it out, repacked it properly, and reassembled with a washer rather than a seal. The left side needed doing properly.


Urgh
Perfect size washer for tapping bearings/races in


Horrible disc

Tapping new seal in using the old seal and a rubber mallet

New disc

Now for the sodding annoying part - first the brake union nut wasn't any size we had and needed to be filed down to actually get the (borrowed) brake spanner on, then when we finally got it to turn, it turns out the pipe is seized in there!
Undoing it is going to break the pipe, so there's no choice but to have new pipes made and then I can finally fit the new calipers.



Sadly had to put it back together using the old calipers...


So, half good, half bad. Am likely going to get the garage to do the new brake lines/fit calipers/bleed brakes. Sigh...

New calipers were put on a while ago, also now have less-old part worns on the front and finally a matching tyre and modular wheel on the bonnet!

Bit of a mixed day as these things usually are. Am after some advice...
Replaced the drive flanges (rears were especially worn) but have had a bit of a nightmare with the rear driver's side driveshaft.
It popped out of the hub when I removed the drive flange, so I popped it back in. Went to fit the new flange and the half shaft is so far 'in' the diff, I can't get any circlips or shims on. Flange off, tried to pull the shaft out and it won't budge at all. Tried rocking the car to take strain off and still nothing. Have had to reassemble it without a circlip for now.
Any tips on how to sort this? One of the other ones is also flush to the circlip and I can't get the shims in. Is this a big issue or should I just keep an eye on it and check for movement?

Corbs said:

Bit of a mixed day as these things usually are. Am after some advice...
Replaced the drive flanges (rears were especially worn) but have had a bit of a nightmare with the rear driver's side driveshaft.
It popped out of the hub when I removed the drive flange, so I popped it back in. Went to fit the new flange and the half shaft is so far 'in' the diff, I can't get any circlips or shims on. Flange off, tried to pull the shaft out and it won't budge at all. Tried rocking the car to take strain off and still nothing. Have had to reassemble it without a circlip for now.
Any tips on how to sort this? One of the other ones is also flush to the circlip and I can't get the shims in. Is this a big issue or should I just keep an eye on it and check for movement?

Click to expand...

The same happened to me when I did the same job. To sort it out I put it all back together, without the circlip, drove it around the block. The action of driving brought the driveshaft out enough to be able to put the shim and circlip back on as it should be. I hope this helps.

That's reassuring, thanks. I took it out for a little shakedown but no movement yet, will keep an eye on it. The rears were stiffer (more crud/corrosion on them) than the fronts in any case, and more worn on the splines.

Hmm... high winds and unfortunate parking position led to a bit of damage I could have done without...

Well a bit of an update is in order. The landy was worked hard over the Dig For Victory Show weekend (and the lead up) - needed some welding done to the chassis for the MOT, where the towbar bolts to, so essential to have it done.
Then it was taken off the road again until I could get around to fixing it, and has sat in my friend's field for a while, until my sister needed to borrow a car for a few months, so once again the landy arose from it's slumber.

It was filthy, covered in cobwebs, leaves, moss, and the paint was very tatty. The inside had been used as something of a storage shed.

A morning of elbow grease, and 3.5 cans of montana black spray paint later, and it looks much more presentable!





The interior was given a damn good scrubbing, never seen it this clean!