Defender Auto

Looking good. Your 'sill' sections are very good for the age of the vehicle (unless you've already replaced the lengths that run under the doors). Currently doing the same job on my 1990 CSW and they are a fair bit worse

I have done this to my 110. I went from lt77/ 200 to 300/4hp22

You have had good advice here.

Avoid the disco t/box. The 4hp22 lockup and 4th is similar to a v8, so too tall for a defender.

Also, the standard cooler lines are too long. And IMO too restrictive.

Purchase a 30 row oil cooler with an10 lines off ebay, use m16x1.5 to an10 adaptors (male/male) and it will plum straight in to the box. Use 90 degree elbows box end.

It will flow better, and cool better.

Acceleration is as good as the manual if setup correct, offroad far superior and you can cruise at 65/70 as opposed to 55/60 whilst keeping the revs nice.

Fuel economy is good. Noticed no difference to my 200/lt77.

Heat and fuel economy will be better with the def t/box due to earlier lockup.

Totally transforms the defender into a semi refined drive.

Few tips

Rotate the selector cable bracket 180 degrees on yen rear mount prior to figments, and drill a 10+ mm hole in the the webbing under the lt230 selector to run the cable through. Remove the cable from the selector housing (four screws to take the side off).

This will put the shifter where you said you wanted it.

Also check the output spline on the box. Very easy to switch part is 5090 or something. 1 bolt externally in the center

If you go for the aftermarket cooling I mentioned you can keep the lt77 tunnel, if not the pipes foul the inside a little.

Purchase a an10 >1/8 npt adaptor and you can monitor your box temps as well.

Mount the cooler horizontally so it doesn't gravity drain each time and over fill the box.

Sill rails and lower C Posts replaced.

Two questions today.

1. Does anyone have a photo of a Defender chassis with 300Tdi engine mountings fitted?

2. Will I have to fit the Discovery servo and master cylinder to allow me to have the rear disc set up or do I just have to plumb the brake pressure valve into the Defender system?

Simples!!

bigjak said:

Two questions today.

1. Does anyone have a photo of a Defender chassis with 300Tdi engine mountings fitted?

2. Will I have to fit the Discovery servo and master cylinder to allow me to have the rear disc set up or do I just have to plumb the brake pressure valve into the Defender system?

Simples!!

Click to expand...

Cant help with Q1
Re Q2 I used the defender servo and Mcyl , and discovery bias valve , and it works fine on a 90 with discovery axles HTSH

Right looking ahead 'again', would I be best to get my farm mate to lift the body off my D1 to strip the drivetrain out?
Then scrap off the chassis and body separately or leave it all together?

With this going back to the top, is there any advice on auto box wiring?

bigjak said:

With this going back to the top, is there any advice on auto box wiring?

Click to expand...

I'd suggest using the park/neutral inhibit switch to break the feed from the key to the starter motor, going through a relay to be on the safe side. It's not strictly necessary but prevents you trying to start unless you're in a neutral gear. Remember to use an ignition-switched supply for this circuit (one that doesn't drop out while cranking too!) It might be an idea to use one of the unused warning lights in the instrument cluster to indicate park/neutral. Reversing light switch should just get patched into the existing connections from the old manual gearbox. Nothing too complicated

It is really necessary to use the inhibitor switch to prevent start in drive or reverse as both could be very dangerous. The idea of using a spare waning light for N or P is a good one as will not need to rely on the
quadrant illumination so much . As previous poster, the rev wiring is easy enough. If you retained the engine harness the gearbox harness feeds straight in to that IIRC

Dropped loads of parts to the paint shop including the roof. It was a bit of a hairy drive but got there in the end.

https://flic.kr/p/zSHPcF

Can anyone tell me how to connect a speedo cable to my D1 EDC transfer box?

IIRC you need a TD5 speedo in the defender and then use the td5 transmitter in the transfer box , and take a supply from the td5 speedo to the edc ecu . HTSH

tacr2man said:

IIRC you need a TD5 speedo in the defender and then use the td5 transmitter in the transfer box , and take a supply from the td5 speedo to the edc ecu . HTSH

Click to expand...

What if I have binned EDC?

then you just use the transfer box drive that your vehicle originally had as that will probably be closest with tyres , final drive and transfer box high ratio . If you use the discovery one it under reads by about 10% FME

Right, head mashed.
If I remove the speed sensor from the bad of the T-box there should be a speedo drive there that I can connect to??

Right I think I have the speedo sorted in my head.
Now how do I marry a 1999 Discovery handbrake to a Defender lever? Will a newer lever take the Disco cable? I don't want to fit the Disco lever on the seatbox.

So I set about getting the front axle out of the disco today, got everything disconnected, one last rattle and it was free!! The body even stood up to show how well I had done!!!!
https://flic.kr/p/AnfiQH

300Tdi Engine mounts now fitted.
https://flic.kr/p/Bqfw57
https://flic.kr/p/BiSqpt

So now the tale of a fool!! So my 110 is going to be a big car and not an off road monster, so when I stripped the front axle out of my Disco, I painted the anti roll bar, bought new links, found the poly bushes in my flo-flex full kit, got some new stainless bolts and nuts but when I came to fit it my 1988 chassis doesn't have anti roll bar mounting!! What an idiot!!
Bought some now and have to get the welder back to fit them...