Defender A frame upgrade

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Posts
10
Location
Yorkshire
Hi everyone
Im preparing to lift my defender 4" most of the work is already done apart from the rear A frame.
Should I fit extreme type or just a 45° angle joint? Any advice greatly appreciated.
Th
 
You could go with the angle ball joint, or you could fit a grease nipple to a standard one and keep it maintained, having said that I would fit a grease nipple to either joint.....your decision really
 
If you've lifted 4" already, do you mean the springs alone are extended or is there also a body lift, like Discos do.?

Reason I ask is that up to about 2" lift there's (My opinion only) not a great deal of change of dimensions and stability. Above that then the distance moved by the axle with relation to the chassis means you probably have to modify quite a few things to make things work properly, the A-frame being no exception.

What have you done so far with the lift?
 
If you've lifted 4" already, do you mean the springs alone are extended or is there also a body lift, like Discos do.?

Reason I ask is that up to about 2" lift there's (My opinion only) not a great deal of change of dimensions and stability. Above that then the distance moved by the axle with relation to the chassis means you probably have to modify quite a few things to make things work properly, the A-frame being no exception.

What have you done so far with the lift?
Hi ive fitted +2 inch springs rear cranked radius arms ive got ready front castor correction arms. Fitted longer ss brake flexi's. Lower damper mounts front and rear, 2 inch body lift and the spring spacers waiting to be fitted.
 
So the drivetrain is lifted 2" only .. I'd just use the stock A-frame .. in fact I do!

If you fit the spring spacers too, to take it to 4" drive train lift, then that's where I'd look at an elongated A-frame. Dunno what the dimensions are, but it needs to be right or the diff is likely to point down more than it should. Similarly at the front, you might need 6 degree arms for the 4" spring lift, but again, the caster correction also points the diff down a little .. I'd also suggest at least wide angle props, maybe lengthened or spacered to suit ... and carry spare UJ's when you're out .. ;)

A lot of this needs working out on the vehicle, some setups, like RAC etc are already figured out dimensionally to work reasonably well with no more mods, but adding bits needs to be looked at critically if you want it to work well. Having said that, many setups will work, not optimally, but good enough to give extra wheel movement and flex without too many hassles.
 
So the drivetrain is lifted 2" only .. I'd just use the stock A-frame .. in fact I do!

If you fit the spring spacers too, to take it to 4" drive train lift, then that's where I'd look at an elongated A-frame. Dunno what the dimensions are, but it needs to be right or the diff is likely to point down more than it should. Similarly at the front, you might need 6 degree arms for the 4" spring lift, but again, the caster correction also points the diff down a little .. I'd also suggest at least wide angle props, maybe lengthened or spacered to suit ... and carry spare UJ's when you're out .. ;)

A lot of this needs working out on the vehicle, some setups, like RAC etc are already figured out dimensionally to work reasonably well with no more mods, but adding bits needs to be looked at critically if you want it to work well. Having said that, many setups will work, not optimally, but good enough to give extra wheel movement and flex without too many hassles.
Ive got prop spacers on standby and the spring spacers are 4". Also extended the steering arm from the box.
 
Any pictures?
20170521_114807.jpg
 
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