Defender A-Frame Removal... Jack Required?

Can anyone clarify whether the A-Frame on my Defender 90 can be safely removed (for replacement of the ball joint and bushes), without the need to lift/jack the rear wheels off the ground?

There are some excellent online walk-through guides out there however, some specify jacking at the chassis rails, then raising the axle, some specify jacking at the axle only, whilst others make no reference to either. As the A-Frame doesn't appear to support the weight of the vehicle in a vertical plane, I wondered if it could be removed with with the vehicle parked level on a hard surface.

Anyone able to shed some light?

I think so you need to take tension off the A frame.

When I did mine I left the wheels on the floor but jacked up the rear chassis legs, this took the tension off the A-Frame and being a TD5 (fuel tank in the way) I had to jack pretty high in order to get to the castle nut off the rear axle.

While the job is not that difficult it can be a right pain, only 1 nut came off without seizing/stripping. The rest I had to either forcefully sheer off or grind off. So be prepared for that. The main bolts on mine that go through the A-Frame and into the chassis mounts where seized like theres not tomorrow. A twice daily spray of plus gas for 7 days followed by an hour a side with a buzz gun only undid them half way. I ended up removing the mounts as one piece then cutting the bolts off.

Also be sure to check the A-Frame to Chassis mounts as they can rust away or be too withered to re-use. Obviously use brand new stainless bolts, YRM do a set.

It's going to be much easier with the wheels removed and the back end lifted and supported well. I'd loosen off all the bolts/nuts with it on the wheels, then jack, support and remove the wheels. Don't forget the axle will want to drop a bit when you separate the joint on top of it.

I didnt bother removing the wheels, they where not in the way. The mid-pipe/mid-box was, forgot about that bit. Blow torch is helpful too, burn out the old bushes.

I took mine off and refitted it without the need to jack anything up

Thanks for the guidance on this one.

I think I'll jack-up at the rear chassis rails to remove tension in the A-Frame, but leave the wheels in contact with the garage floor. Based on comments in relation to seized fixings and fasteners, I've ordered a full set of replacements. Ahhh.... another job to keep me busy over Xmas - along with replacing the radius arm bushes (just bolted together a new 12-ton press), rear wheel bearings and shocks, re-building the swivel housings and replacing the fuse box (spade-type) - great!

Thanks again.

Could you ping part numbers for your replacements as I have this on my list as well

I've just done my A frame. Didn't remove wheels or jack up...... Mid section of exhaust needs disconnecting and tying to the side to access the 28mm bolts at the top of the A frame. Make sure you clean the threads of the large bolts with wire brush before you try and remove or they seize up.

The only reason I mentioned taking the wheels off was to give more room to move my legs around when underneath. You don't need to.

RiffRaffRevival said:

Can anyone clarify whether the A-Frame on my Defender 90 can be safely removed (for replacement of the ball joint and bushes), without the need to lift/jack the rear wheels off the ground?

There are some excellent online walk-through guides out there however, some specify jacking at the chassis rails, then raising the axle, some specify jacking at the axle only, whilst others make no reference to either. As the A-Frame doesn't appear to support the weight of the vehicle in a vertical plane, I wondered if it could be removed with with the vehicle parked level on a hard surface.

Anyone able to shed some light?

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I just crawl under and undo it. Safer, and probably less play in things if you have to start chiseling nuts off and so on.
As above, ^^^^^^^^^, the big bolts can get pretty seized. On older models I find it is easier to remove the Aframe mounts from the chassis and dissasemble the thing on the bench.
Quality socket.and a long extension bar about eighteen inches are pretty essential to do this.

One other thing I found was that you can remove the M10 bolt that is nearest the 28mm nut then refit it with the nut to the bottom which allows a 28mm socket to go onto the 28mm but FAR more easily. Access to the top A frame bolt is made easier too by disconnecting the exhaust at the mid box and using a bungee cord to pull the exhaust out of the way. I'm not an expert, I have only done this job once but it was last week

Turboman said:

I just crawl under and undo it. Safer, and probably less play in things if you have to start chiseling nuts off and so on.
As above, ^^^^^^^^^, the big bolts can get pretty seized. On older models I find it is easier to remove the Aframe mounts from the chassis and dissasemble the thing on the bench.
Quality socket.and a long extension bar about eighteen inches are pretty essential to do this.

Click to expand...

On older models I think that siezed - up = standard procedure! On my 1983 I found that the castle nut was siezed solid on the ball joint and that the bolts holding the ball joint bracket to the axle frame had corroded heads so that no socket would grip them properly. I always remember the words of wisdom I had from someone I know who restores steam traction engines: Never be in a rush and everything is possible if you quietly persevere!

Vintage-and-Classic said:

On older models I think that siezed - up = standard procedure! On my 1983 I found that the castle nut was siezed solid on the ball joint and that the bolts holding the ball joint bracket to the axle frame had corroded heads so that no socket would grip them properly. I always remember the words of wisdom I had from someone I know who restores steam traction engines: Never be in a rush and everything is possible if you quietly persevere!

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My castle nut was seized but I liberally doused it in anti-seize oil and used a very well fitting 25mm six sided socket and an impact wrench. The impacting popped the ball joint out at the same time

Vintage-and-Classic said:

On older models I think that siezed - up = standard procedure! On my 1983 I found that the castle nut was siezed solid on the ball joint and that the bolts holding the ball joint bracket to the axle frame had corroded heads so that no socket would grip them properly. I always remember the words of wisdom I had from someone I know who restores steam traction engines: Never be in a rush and everything is possible if you quietly persevere!

Click to expand...

Yes, pretty much my approach! The stuck fastener will be leaving, just a matter of how long it will survive!
Never had a problem with the castellated nuts, just enough room in the axle bracket to get a cold chisel on the nut!
I mentioned older models with ref to the upper brackets, because I think the newer ones have the brackets as integral part of the chassis, not removable.

ER1C said:

Could you ping part numbers for your replacements as I have this on my list as well

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These are the parts I ordered - mine's an '85 2.5 NA, so an early model - always best to double-check fitment for your own vehicle, however:

A-Frame Bush x 2 - P/N: NTC1773
A-Frame Bush Bolt x 2 - P/N: BH612321
Nut x 2 - P/N: NY612041
Bolt x 2 - P/N: 253952
Bolt x 4 - P/N: NY608041L
A-Frame Ball Joint x 1 - P/N: ANR1799

... Oh and a 12T press, as I have a fair assortment of bushes to replace around the chassis in readiness for MOT time.

Just my Xmas jumper to adorn now, just to keep everything festive - with it being that time of year!

Thanks again everyone - really appreciate the guidance.