Dave's new mota !

biolandy said:

Halfords sell em mate-double ender

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Are the Halfords ones a two-piece affair though? The advantage of this kit is that one spanner holds the pulley still, while the other removes the viscous fan.

It transforms the job, honestly !

Dave

thebiglad said:

Are the Halfords ones a two-piece affair though? The advantage of this kit is that one spanner holds the pulley still, while the other removes the viscous fan.

It transforms the job, honestly !

Dave

Click to expand...

Nope the halfords just have the double ended 32/36mm, not one for the pulley bolts

robhew86 said:

Nope the halfords just have the double ended 32/36mm, not one for the pulley bolts

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That makes ALL the difference.

thebiglad said:

That makes ALL the difference.

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them spanners are a right good buy you got! knuckle savers i would say!

Good thread!!

Well that's the chassis waxoyl'd then:




Dave

thebiglad said:

Well that's the chassis waxoyl'd then:




Dave

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At least your glasses won't rust

I hoped that would give a little Tuesday afternoon merriment! I'm VERY pleased that's over.

that look is familiar!
i now get a tissue/paper overall suit when i do it, may look stupid but keeps 90% of you clean, but the face ends up just as good looking as yours!

discodrivercumbria said:

that look is familiar!
i now get a tissue/paper overall suit when i do it, may look stupid but keeps 90% of you clean, but the face ends up just as good looking as yours!

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You poor bastard !!!!

Window Regulator replacement:

First let me say that this was a surprisingly easy job !!!

I'm going to start my "How to............" assuming that you have already stripped off the door card.

If you can still lower the window ?? then lower the glass until it is at the level of the door opening. Now looking at the bottom of the glass you will see that the regulator is fixed to the glass with 2 x 8mm short bolts:



and:



Now move the glass manual to the top of the door and tape or jam in place.

To remove the regulator you need to remove 5 or 6 8mm short bolts, and slacken the 2 x 8mm bolts in the 'keyhole' slots and detach the assembly from the door:




then disconnect the motor electrical connector via this access hole:



You can now manouver the assembly out out from the door completely. Remove the motor from the regulator by removing the three torx screws, then attach the motor to the new regulator (ensure you swap over the white plastic guide), ensuring you aligne the calibration marks:



Now reinstall the assembly, reconnect the electrical connector, using the window switch lower the regulator until you can see the window connection points, lower the window glass and attach to the regulator - AND YOU'RE DONE !!!!!!!!

The latest bit of work today - front camshaft seal, adjustment of steering box, diagnosis of waftiness.


1. Front camshaft seal. The front end of the head was very claggy when I first bought the car, so I thoroughly cleaned and and watched and waited. Well the leak, albeit quite small, has come back:



So as I had a new one in stock, I decided to do it straight away. First remove the 2 x 8mm bolts that hold the harness across the seal and set aside:



Comparing the old and new seals it's clear that the old one had gone flat whereas the new one is round pulpeuse:



I cleaned the hole and ran a little grease around the new seal and then pressed into place. Replaced the harness and Bob is your Mum's best friend !


2. Adjustment of steering box - The steering has been feeling a bit wafty and there was play in the steering box so today I adjusted the steering box, before ascertaining the source of the waftyness.

Steering box adjustment is very straightforward. I found it best to remove the hose between the intercooler and the inlet manifold, then the De-EGR tube off the manifold, to give better access to the top of the steering box.

On it you will see a bleed screw to the left and a 19mm nut with an allen screw in the middle - this is where you are going to make the adjustment. First mark the position of the alen screw before slackening the 19mm retaining nut, you need a reference point. I used chalk to make a mark on one side of the screw. Now slacken the 19mm nut, which will turn the allen screw simultaneously, this is OK because you have your ref. mark. Now lock the nut and turn the allen screw 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn NO MORE!

Now you can re-tighten the 19mm nut and the srew will follow. You should now have taken up the slack in the steering 'box.

3. Diagnosis of waftyness - Whilst my charming assistent rocked the steering back and forth I slid underneath and found the problem straight away, the drag link had a very worn link on the drop-arm and a fairly worn one at the other end. Paddocks order being placed as we speak.

We're getting there........................................................

The gearchange that I sorted out recently has made a disproportionate difference to the driving pleasure of this car.

Slow day today, just brake discs and pads all round. Now she brakes well to complement her power !!

Latest epistle:

Had a small delivery from Paddocks this morning. A new Britpart Drag Link for the steering on my D2 - part no. QHG000040; cost £24.50 + vat.

Having fought my way through SUBSTANTIAL packaging I found the drag link. It appears to be a very nice quality part that I would have no hesitation installing on my car.

Overall pic:



Very thick powder-coated finish, with steering damper mount in place.

On the nearside end there is a 2 part affair with left and right hand threads making length adjustments a piece of cake:



Have given all threads a good bollocking with copper grease.

Right I'm just off out to install it and enjoy the bliss of precise steering !!!!


Dave

You'll need traction allignment afterwards won't you?

Disco DJ said:

You'll need traction allignment afterwards won't you?

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No, not really. It was the drag link (the front one that links the drop arm to one of the front wheels) I changed, not the track rod - so the tracking remains unaltered.

I had to make several small adjustments to achieve the steering wheel at the straight ahead position but this is very easy to do.

Cheers
Dave

thebiglad said:

No, not really. It was the drag link (the front one that links the drop arm to one of the front wheels) I changed, not the track rod - so the tracking remains unaltered.

I had to make several small adjustments to achieve the steering wheel at the straight ahead position but this is very easy to do.

Cheers
Dave

Click to expand...

I changed my drag link in January for the mot (excessive play)
I was advised by the LR dealer that did the mot it'd need tracking done. (Did the work myself, but got tracking done by the place I get my tyres for £30-£40 I think). It was slightly out.

Todays epistle is all about powered steering:

When I bought my car I knew there was an issue with the powered steering - basically it wasn't very powered!

Anyway, I managed to find a 2nd hand pump on Ebay for £20 plus postage.

It arrived today so the rest of this post is about doing the job. This is how I did it:

1. Remove radiator cover; viscous fan; air filter box complete; turbo to inter-cooler pipework; air filter box to turbo corrugated hose. This will give better access.

2. Slacken but do not remove the 3 pulley retainng bolts on the pas pump; now remove the serpentine belt;

3. Slacken but do not remove the pas HP hose union; slacken hose clip on LP side of pump;

4. Now remove the pulley and it's 3 bolts; this gives access to the pump mounting plate with 5 retaining bolts - leave the middle in place - now remove the other 4 bolts. The 2 bottom ones are long to go through to the water pump, the top 2 are short.

5. Once all 4 bolts are removed, detach completely both hoses;

6. You are now ready to remove the pump. Mine required a bit of a tap with a hammer and some wood but soon gave way.

7. Installation of new pump is the reverse of the above, just be careful to install the pump so it keys into the drive spitgot affaire.

8. Once the new pump is installed, you will need to bleed the system. To do this you need access to the top of the steering box and it's bleed screw. I only had a short (1foot maybe) piece of clear pipe and it would make life easier if you had a length close to 1mtr plus a 5ltr receptacle to catch the old fluid.

9. NB Exercise caution here as you will be working in the engine bay whilst the engine is turning; set up the slackened bleed screw with it's pipe and catch tank then get your lovely assistant to start the engine and then turn the wheel end to end. You'll get quite a lot fluid coming out (perhaps 2ltrs) before you get all the air out.


Now I have again the "luxury" that is powered steering.

Cheers
Dave

Yesterdays job was to fit or re-fit the facelift bumper that came with my Disco.

Took a lot of fiddling & farting but here she is now:




I know she's not perfect (didn't cost anything either!!) and I still need to paint the side covers, but I reckon she don't look tooooooo bad and as I pick up the rest of a facelift front end at sensible money, she'll get fully converted.