dash lights

Ive just had a go at making mine better, all i did was first replace the standard 2w bulbs with off the shelf 5w ones and second i carefully drilled out the tip of the green dome inside the gauge just push the drill through the white bulb holder tube very slowly so you dont hit the workings with the drill bit, mine are much better now between the brighter bulb and the fact that the light is white now instead of green

Zorro123 said:

Ive just had a go at making mine better, all i did was first replace the standard 2w bulbs with off the shelf 5w ones and second i carefully drilled out the tip of the green dome inside the gauge just push the drill through the white bulb holder tube very slowly so you dont hit the workings with the drill bit, mine are much better now between the brighter bulb and the fact that the light is white now instead of green

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Don't forget that yu are now putting out almost 3 times as much heat, so be wary if things distorted and melting. Also fuse might start popping.

Heat from...? The LED's are cooler than incandescent bulbs.

Zorro123 said:

Ive just had a go at making mine better, all i did was first replace the standard 2w bulbs with off the shelf 5w

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Where does it say there ^^^^ LED bulbs - it says "off the shelf 5W" - now I might be wrong, but I thought that heat dissipation was related to power consumption, and 5W is using 2.5 times the power of 5W bulbs, so there is more chance of blowing a fuse and more heat being output means a higher risk of distorting or melting plastic.

Replaced my dash bulbs with blue LED's ......... bit Chavvy but do I care.
















Thinking of changing back to bulbs probably go for 5w too for some extra warmth

Bromsgrove Defender said:

Replaced my dash bulbs with blue LED's ......... bit Chavvy but do I care.

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Obviously not :behindsofa:

The Mad Hat Man said:

Obviously not :behindsofa:

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Too right it works for me

Though if ever I cover it in chequer plate and or put any lighting under the wheel arches/chasis please pop round and slap me

Bromsgrove Defender said:

Too right it works for me

Though if ever I cover it in chequer plate and or put any lighting under the wheel arches/chasis please pop round and slap me

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Nar - am just a keyboard warrier - will just call yu rood names on here .

The Mad Hat Man said:

Nar - am just a keyboard warrier - will just call yu rood names on here .

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Near enuff. I'd have deserved it

The Mad Hat Man said:

Where does it say there ^^^^ LED bulbs - it says "off the shelf 5W" - now I might be wrong, but I thought that heat dissipation was related to power consumption, and 5W is using 2.5 times the power of 5W bulbs, so there is more chance of blowing a fuse and more heat being output means a higher risk of distorting or melting plastic.

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Sorry, missed the 5w bulb reference. :doh:

So for anyone who has followed this long thread considering it is about some very small bulbs...
I took my dash binacle out last night. The two bulb holders (white tubes into which actual bulb holders go) into the Speed Clock had broken off so that the white bulb holder shroud was loose and the green lenses were rattling around in the clock! Explained why my milometer trip was stuck! Got the green lens out by using two pairs of long nosed pliars to break them up through the hole and then emptying them out. Then araldited the white bulb holder sheaths back into place. Means I can now use 501 LED bulb replacements that wont shine through the dam green lens.
Sticking with the green lens on the other two gauges but will still stick in the LEDs.

i performed the same mod last night in the dark , removed those ****y green lenses and i can confirm that with some 5 quid led bulbs from "goodwillsales" that the dash is a pleasent thing to look at now and doesnt require a fecking maglight from the dash to see fuel or temp

also found the other end of the earth wire for my bulbs and clock - clock works again. Now means there are no electronics not working in my landrover - including rear window heater, wiper and washer !

wiring is a bit of a mess though from what i can see - need to get some new crimps - lots of twist and tapes - some of which i have reciepts from previous owner for previous work explaining which electronics they fixed - and it correlates with twist and tape connections - from a ford main dealer FFS (more fool the previous owner tbh)

How did you get the green lenses out?
Ive just done mine with small led's, I drilled a hole in the green lens and poked the led through.
I did try to get the green lens of the fuel gauge, ended up breaking the glass!!

My green lenses were broken off and rattling around inside the gauge. You could break em off. Then get a two pairs of long nosed pliers, rattle gauge aoud till remains poke through the hole and if the dont fall through, grab wih pliers and use othe pliers to berak them up. The araldite original holders back on. Works a treat for me

where do the protective resistors for the LED's go? you need a protective resistor for LED's dont you? or they keep blowing.

a load of lights went on mine the otherday.. i think 2 bulbs are now working behind there!

satchmolips said:

My green lenses were broken off and rattling around inside the gauge. You could break em off. Then get a two pairs of long nosed pliers, rattle gauge aoud till remains poke through the hole and if the dont fall through, grab wih pliers and use othe pliers to berak them up. The araldite original holders back on. Works a treat for me

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I'm gonna try and drill them out need to get rid these led bulbs are amazing tho

do you have a link to the ones you bought?

Er I just searched on ebay for led dash lights land rover HOWEVER they do not fit my new clocks as the tubes are not round inside but have flats insude which I wil drill out

To answer an earlier question - the LEDs don't need additional resistors, as they're designed for 12V.

instantsquid said:

To answer an earlier question - the LEDs don't need additional resistors, as they're designed for 12V.

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its not the voltage - its the current.