Damn land rovers don’t you hate them!

lynall said:

They actually use 1/2 a litre per hour at full chat, thats for the 5KW versions.

Ref the head if its just small cracks it will almost certainly be good to go again, my 90 head has quite a few small cracks between the valve seats and I reasoned it wasnt pressurising before the head gasket went at the back so it can go back on, that was a few years ago and its still okay.

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They use that much.. Jesus, I was told approximately a egg cup. Yeah the heads fine it’s been skimmed and tested ok!

joshremlin said:

They use that much.. Jesus, I was told approximately a egg cup. Yeah the heads fine it’s been skimmed and tested ok!

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Nothing to worry about. It won't use any fuel when it has broken down.

joshremlin said:

They use that much.. Jesus, I was told approximately a egg cup. Yeah the heads fine it’s been skimmed and tested ok!

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Only at full chat, when they get the area up to temperature they go onto idle or standby, still you can run them on red diesel wih no issues, so wont be so dear.

Well worth checking on the eber website for full specs of the model you are interested in

Completed... thankfully I managed getting time off today to get the Land Rover built back up... she’s running sweet as a nut other than if sat idling the gauge creeps up to just above half and the thermostat isn’t doing it’s job.. it seems to be stopping water passing through causing the temperature to go up close to overheating... took it out and it’s fine, tested the thermostat and it’s fine so I can’t get my head round it.

Hmmm ?

Possible its upside down?
Other options are faulty sender/gauge, airlock, water pump or blocked rad

joshremlin said:

Completed... thankfully I managed getting time off today to get the Land Rover built back up... she’s running sweet as a nut other than if sat idling the gauge creeps up to just above half and the thermostat isn’t doing it’s job.. it seems to be stopping water passing through causing the temperature to go up close to overheating... took it out and it’s fine, tested the thermostat and it’s fine so I can’t get my head round it.

Hmmm ?

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Its not as simple as that becasue with the stat removed some of the water is going via the bypass hose and not through the radiator.
If you look at the stat it has an extra bit, as the stat open ths extra bit closes of the bypass so all the coolant has to go through the rad.
I have never managed to get a 200 up to temp just on idle, in fact they are so efficient they can be buggers to get hot at the best of times.

What sort of gauge/sender set up are you using?

Kev12 said:

Possible its upside down?
Other options are faulty sender/gauge, airlock, water pump or blocked rad

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Not air locked, and rad doesn’t seem blocked I don’t think as it gets warm without the thermostat in place unless that’s because it’s going via the bypass.

lynall said:

Its not as simple as that becasue with the stat removed some of the water is going via the bypass hose and not through the radiator.
If you look at the stat it has an extra bit, as the stat open ths extra bit closes of the bypass so all the coolant has to go through the rad.
I have never managed to get a 200 up to temp just on idle, in fact they are so efficient they can be buggers to get hot at the best of times.

What sort of gauge/sender set up are you using?

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This is the stat in the picture the sender and gauge are just standard although the gauge on the dash could be a v8 has its been converted but with the band new stat in the radiator is stone cold dead and gets way too hot just on idle... the conversation is a bit of a bodge... there’s no glowplug relay on it and a few other niggles that need sorting including this. I’m just a little bit lost with it, I’m tempted to buy a digital gauge off eBay just to see what temp it actually reads.

If the gauge is a v8 it will read high,over 3/4.
I have a v8 gauge with a 200tdi disco in it but I have a resistor fitted to read correct. As people say Steve Parker sells conversion kits for reading correctly.

I don't run a viscous fan and tow big trailers & have not hit red before.


Boil your kettle and put the thermostat into the water see if it works first

Kev12 said:

Possible its upside down?
Other options are faulty sender/gauge, airlock, water pump or blocked rad

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Not air locked, and rad doesn’t seem blocked I don’t think as it gets warm without the thermostat in place unless that’s because it’s going via the bypass.

lynall said:

Its not as simple as that becasue with the stat removed some of the water is going via the bypass hose and not through the radiator.
If you look at the stat it has an extra bit, as the stat open ths extra bit closes of the bypass so all the coolant has to go through the rad.
I have never managed to get a 200 up to temp just on idle, in fact they are so efficient they can be buggers to get hot at the best of times.

What sort of gauge/sender set up are you using?

Click to expand...

This is the stat in the picture the sender and gauge are just standard although the gauge on the dash could be a v8 has its been converted but with the band new stat in the radiator is stone cold dead and gets way too hot just on idle... the conversation is a bit of a bodge... there’s no glowplug relay on it and a few other niggles that need sorting

Hicap phill said:

If the gauge is a v8 it will read high,over 3/4.
I have a v8 gauge with a 200tdi disco in it but I have a resistor fitted to read correct. As people say Steve Parker sells conversion kits for reading correctly.

I don't run a viscous fan and tow big trailers & have not hit red before.


Boil your kettle and put the thermostat into the water see if it works first

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Done the kettle trick and it’s opening and closing ok.. guess I’m best with a digital gauge for now, what should the reading be ? Once it comes I’ll pop the stat back in and see if it makes a difference

look on thermostat will be either 88 or 92(I think)
Running normally your digital temp
Will be 88. Should not get more than 110.

Cheers Phil I’ll give it a go buddy and see what happens... I also could do with working out what engine it is wether it’s defender or discovery too

Turbo above the engine is a Landrover

Turbo Lower(near engine mount) disco

joshremlin said:

Not air locked, and rad doesn’t seem blocked I don’t think as it gets warm without the thermostat in place unless that’s because it’s going via the bypass.



This is the stat in the picture the sender and gauge are just standard although the gauge on the dash could be a v8 has its been converted but with the band new stat in the radiator is stone cold dead and gets way too hot just on idle... the conversation is a bit of a bodge... there’s no glowplug relay on it and a few other niggles that need sorting

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Yes thats the right type stat.
Ebay capilliary Tim temperature gauge, no wires needed works all the time and is pretty damned accurate, both my 200 have the same set up.

Like this, have a search there may be the same but cheaper, its not as sexy as the digi ones but it works every time all the time and has doen for the last few years with zero issues, also a striaght fit into the dash gauge hole, the supplied sensor adaptor fitted bith of my 200 disco and defender version.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TIM-Mech...542214?hash=item4623375f86:g:SNsAAOSwaNBUeapk

I’ll have a look at those now... my name is might have a digi one for me from his kit cars.

Hicap phill said:

Turbo above the engine is a Landrover

Turbo Lower(near engine mount) disco

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The turbo is below the manifold, which I was led to believe those was defender engines. The engine code is 12L

You have a Disco engine. It's highly likely you have the wrong water temperature gauge/sender combo, but one of the cheapo infra red thermometers will tell you for sure - and as recommended above fit a "proper" gauge. It's also quite likely your new thermostat isn't opening early/quickly enough - I went through 5 before finding one that worked properly - thank goodness they are cheap.

zeaphod said:

You have a Disco engine. It's highly likely you have the wrong water temperature gauge/sender combo, but one of the cheapo infra red thermometers will tell you for sure - and as recommended above fit a "proper" gauge. It's also quite likely your new thermostat isn't opening early/quickly enough - I went through 5 before finding one that worked properly - thank goodness they are cheap.

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The gauge fitted is a PRC3105 gauge but for now I’ll try a digital just for piece of mind. This thermostat was the most expensive I’ve ever bought at about

I found a Durite gauge was much, much better than the LR offering - it actually tells you pretty accurately what the engine temperature is! It took a bit of fiddling to get the supplied sender fitted - depends on what thread is fitted to the disco engine - see my thread on it if you need more detail. As for the thermostats, I had two different waxstats amongst the five I tried but ended up with a cheapo from eurocarparts. I tested each using the handheld infra red thermometer (from screwfix). You're looking for a stat that opens fully at 88 degrees.

zeaphod said:

I found a Durite gauge was much, much better than the LR offering - it actually tells you pretty accurately what the engine temperature is! It took a bit of fiddling to get the supplied sender fitted - depends on what thread is fitted to the disco engine - see my thread on it if you need more detail. As for the thermostats, I had two different waxstats amongst the five I tried but ended up with a cheapo from eurocarparts. I tested each using the handheld infra red thermometer (from screwfix). You're looking for a stat that opens fully at 88 degrees.

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I’ll have a play around with it... i don’t know why I put myself through the pain of another LR lmao.... the exhaust has snapped in the middle and appears it’s worked it’s way loose on the down pipe... no doubt another bodge! I’ll get it where I want it one day.. at some point I want to change the gearbox for one I can use a adaptor with to use the proper 110 gear sticks, it’s currently fitted with the disco LT77 box and it appears there isn’t a adaptor for that box

joshremlin said:

I’ll have a play around with it... i don’t know why I put myself through the pain of another LR lmao.... the exhaust has snapped in the middle and appears it’s worked it’s way loose on the down pipe... no doubt another bodge! I’ll get it where I want it one day.. at some point I want to change the gearbox for one I can use a adaptor with to use the proper 110 gear sticks, it’s currently fitted with the disco LT77 box and it appears there isn’t a adaptor for that box

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Downpipe will be loose as the downpipe to engine block brackets are either missing or loose