Damn land rovers don’t you hate them!

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joshremlin

Active Member
Posts
146
Right so yesterday I decided I’d come back to the Land Rover scene... something I’ve missed driving a pile of crap pathfinder. Bought a 200tdi defender 110 a vehicle I’ve always wanted!

Did a 60 mike trip back fine on the very very steep hills the heat gauge creeped slightly above half but no more and come down quickly on the less hilly parts. Gone out to it today and I’ve fired it up and can hear a spitting/ticking sound so just poking around the engine bay I took the coolant header tank cap off and it’s got a layer of water on top :( the oil level seems fine and it doesn’t appear to have any water in the oil.

What’s your thoughts? I’m guessing a good chance the gaskets gone although I’m hoping not!

If it’s gone how are they to do compared to the 300tdi? I did one in the 300 and it wasn’t too bad
 
Head gasket gone at the back you mean?
Common place to go on the 200, easy job, no more difficult than the 300.
 
Easy to do , can reuse the head bolts up to 5 times, use a quality gasket
 
I’m tempted to buy new bolts as I don’t know if it’s been done before... what gasket do recommend?

Elring are good, a look on ebay should give you an idea, basically so long as its got a makers name on it, it will be fine.

If you buy new bolts buy good ones as theres more than one story out there of new cheapo bolts failing whilst being torqued up!
If you think about it a head gasket has got to be good for at least 50k if not double that, so unless your car has done serious mega iles I would reuse, Ive done several and never replaced the bolts.
Iirc theres measurements out there so you can tell if they are fubar.
 
Elring are good, a look on ebay should give you an idea, basically so long as its got a makers name on it, it will be fine.

If you buy new bolts buy good ones as theres more than one story out there of new cheapo bolts failing whilst being torqued up!
If you think about it a head gasket has got to be good for at least 50k if not double that, so unless your car has done serious mega iles I would reuse, Ive done several and never replaced the bolts.
Iirc theres measurements out there so you can tell if they are fubar.
I was just going to get all the parts from Paddocks... the motor its self has done 174k but it was a V8 with a engine swap in 2011 so I'm unsure of the mileage of the engine as such.
 
I'm thinking of a britpart head gasket set but a earling head gasket its self but the britpart head gasket set comes with all the bolts etc
 
Too add on to this thread rather than start a new one I’m just looking for a bit of advise. I’ve started the strip down and so far so good although I have a couple of questions regarding the injectors and coolant/heater system.

Here are the four injectors removed I’m a little bit concerned of the condition these have come out, mainly the one marked number 3 it appears to have a sludge type substance around it would this be normal or do you think I may have other problems ?

B4790CED-4716-4E17-A2EE-8543DC13649F.jpeg


I believe it’s just the gasket that’s failed and it’s not over heated etc so I was going to get the head checked by a local company to see wether or not it needs skimming, the oil has got into the water so now I’m wondering if it’s cracked although I’ll not know until it’s removed tomorrow now due to running out of time today! What’s your thoughts?

Now on to the heater system obviously the back two pipes on the engine go into the heater matrix to supply it heat, we all know how crap the heater system is so I want to add my own diesel heater system and run the pipes into the dash etc for the window screen. So am I right in thinking I can just put a water pipe to these two outlets/inlets to bypass the heater system and remove it all together? If so would you still put a thermostat in or bypass that too?

181D2A07-4932-47EB-9A18-1611256A6D9D.jpeg


Thanks guys any advice is much appreciated! So far it seems more straight forward compared to the 300tdi I did although I can’t seem to find the torque settings and sequence for refitting so I was just going to follow a disco 200tdi workshop manual on that.
 
If you want to bypass the heater matrix just join the 2 pipes together that would normally feed it.

Definitely fit the thermostat or your engine will take an age to warm up
 
If you want to bypass the heater matrix just join the 2 pipes together that would normally feed it.

Definitely fit the thermostat or your engine will take an age to warm up

Thought that would be the case flat, I’ll just join the two and keep the thermostat in place, or at least that’s what I’ll do once my new diesel heater arrives and the headgasket is sorted!
 
Thanks. Just fitting a 24v into a lorry at the moment so getting a bit of practice. Not a cheap Chinese one though.
Are you fitting your inside the cab or external?
Thanks for replies
 
Too add on to this thread rather than start a new one I’m just looking for a bit of advise. I’ve started the strip down and so far so good although I have a couple of questions regarding the injectors and coolant/heater system.

Here are the four injectors removed I’m a little bit concerned of the condition these have come out, mainly the one marked number 3 it appears to have a sludge type substance around it would this be normal or do you think I may have other problems ?

View attachment 144512

I believe it’s just the gasket that’s failed and it’s not over heated etc so I was going to get the head checked by a local company to see wether or not it needs skimming, the oil has got into the water so now I’m wondering if it’s cracked although I’ll not know until it’s removed tomorrow now due to running out of time today! What’s your thoughts?

Now on to the heater system obviously the back two pipes on the engine go into the heater matrix to supply it heat, we all know how crap the heater system is so I want to add my own diesel heater system and run the pipes into the dash etc for the window screen. So am I right in thinking I can just put a water pipe to these two outlets/inlets to bypass the heater system and remove it all together? If so would you still put a thermostat in or bypass that too?

View attachment 144513

Thanks guys any advice is much appreciated! So far it seems more straight forward compared to the 300tdi I did although I can’t seem to find the torque settings and sequence for refitting so I was just going to follow a disco 200tdi workshop manual on that.

Snot on injectors nowt to worry about, only bit that matters is thre nozzle itself.

I would just fit an linle tap into the existing heater pipework so when the diesel heater fails (it will fail at some time trust me) you still have access to heat, plus running another fuel burning source when you have free heat to use seems mad to me, great for pre heating or additional heat when needed.

I reckon one of them kit car style hot water heaters from ebay would be better than std 90/110 set up
 
Thought that would be the case flat, I’ll just join the two and keep the thermostat in place, or at least that’s what I’ll do once my new diesel heater arrives and the headgasket is sorted!

Thermostat is essential for the radiator to work properly, so deffo keep that.

Bypassing the heater will cause no issues.
What diesel heater are you going for?
I’m keep debating a thermotop or similar but can’t work out if it’s worth It, my heater is quite good
 
Thanks. Just fitting a 24v into a lorry at the moment so getting a bit of practice. Not a cheap Chinese one though.
Are you fitting your inside the cab or external?
Thanks for replies

Well I'm tempted to remove the full heating system and pop it under engine bay where the current heater system is.

Thermostat is essential for the radiator to work properly, so deffo keep that.

Bypassing the heater will cause no issues.
What diesel heater are you going for?
I’m keep debating a thermotop or similar but can’t work out if it’s worth It, my heater is quite good

Going for one of those diesel burning one, yeah fair enough its something else using diesel but they only use a egg cup for a good few hours and it can be left on all night if you like so will be ideal for sleeping in the cab at shows, its a eberspacher I'm going for. The heating in mines crap and only blows up window screen.. I'm hoping to route the pipe under the rear seats... somehow :/.

Hopefully Ill find out if the heads any good today, took it yesterday and its in a sorry state its got cracks all over it but there's hope there only surface cracks
 
Well I'm tempted to remove the full heating system and pop it under engine bay where the current heater system is.



Going for one of those diesel burning one, yeah fair enough its something else using diesel but they only use a egg cup for a good few hours and it can be left on all night if you like so will be ideal for sleeping in the cab at shows, its a eberspacher I'm going for. The heating in mines crap and only blows up window screen.. I'm hoping to route the pipe under the rear seats... somehow :/.

Hopefully Ill find out if the heads any good today, took it yesterday and its in a sorry state its got cracks all over it but there's hope there only surface cracks


They actually use 1/2 a litre per hour at full chat, thats for the 5KW versions.

Ref the head if its just small cracks it will almost certainly be good to go again, my 90 head has quite a few small cracks between the valve seats and I reasoned it wasnt pressurising before the head gasket went at the back so it can go back on, that was a few years ago and its still okay.
 
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