d2 immobiliser fault

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leg oot the bed

Active Member
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660
ive recently bought a td5 disco and as its been sat for a while i had to strip starter solenoid to get it going,
after this it started no problem, the key fobs were registering and operating central locking ect, went to it last night and it wont read the key or fob, you can unlock it with key but as soon as i open the door the alarm goes off, put the key in the ignition and the fuel pump runs and it wont engage the starter,
going by the research ive done ive checked the fuses and made sure nothing is wet(cars pretty damp with sitting currently have 2 dehumidifiers and a heater blazing inside), other than hunting down someone with nanocom is there anything else i can check? part of the problem is the vehicles up on stands with no mot or brakes at the moment, im going to try the key in the door trick next with what i can gather is the standard code of ****, i have no handbook with the vehicle
any insight into your previous experiences with this fault would be greatfully recieved
 
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I don't know why you've started to have problems with the central locking, but in order to open the vehicle without the fob you're going to need the Emergency Key Access (EKA) code. There is no such thing as "the standard code", each vehicle is different and individual. You can obtain the EKA and other security information from your nearest Land Rover main stealer for free. You will need to provide proof of ownership, the V5.
Entering the EKA in order to gain access to your vehicle must be done in the correct order and in the correct timing, the instructions are given in the owner's handbook which can be obtained online. If you search for and download a copy of RAVE, all the necessary information is there.


EKA 1.gif
EKA 2.gif
 
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You really would be better off if you found someone with a nanocom prepared to have a look. If you put up your locality you may find someone close.
Could be the battery in your fob, could be the rf receiver for the fob in the roof near the rear sunroof. Or other things.

Also as above download a copy of the owners handbook, will be very useful.

Good luck.

Cheers
 
+1 for what Brian said, the EKA is compulsory first of all cos without remobilising it no tester will communicate with the BCU, then after it's remobilised it can be diagnosed, most common for this symptom is roof receiver failure... it's plug and play so you can go by luck and replace it and if that doesnt help at least it's ruled out and you have a good spare but if it's that you ar efixed fast and easy ;)
 
cheers for your replys gents, i have found a drowned rf receiver in the roof lining- picking one up in the morning from land rover, i will enquire about the access code when im in stores for future reference if its not required after rf replacement is fitted, the code 1515 was one i picked up on with what a few people had said on forums was a generic code so i tried it and got the single beep saying incorrect code, theres a lot to be said for my old series 3 if it doesnt start its usually apparent that somethings broken with a F lol
 
neilly said:
You really would be better off if you found someone with a nanocom prepared to have a look. If you put up your locality you may find someone close.
Could be the battery in your fob, could be the rf receiver for the fob in the roof near the rear sunroof. Or other things.

Also as above download a copy of the owners handbook, will be very useful.

Good luck.

Cheers
Click to expand...
 
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got my rf receiver today and it worked-happy days, still wet up there so currently dehumidifying the life out of it,
anyone covered waterproofing these black boxes? i was thinking a condom and a cable tie then i could go look for something to waterproof the rf receiver:p,
any suggestions greatly appreciated, did also consider relocating the box to some where that isnt wetter than jordans y fronts anyone know of the importance of the lenght pf the wires to it? could i extend them without bu**ering the operation of it ?
 
neilly said:
Good news, glad to hear it.
Now get your EKA code and check it works.

Cheers
Click to expand...
well theres a story behind that, i asked for it at the dealers and they gave me it but one of the numbers was a letter and the man in the stores said he asked the mechanic and he said to correlate it with its coinciding number in the alphabet ie a =1 b=2 ect ect, so i am yet to check that works, i want to get it all road worthy and ran a few more time before i start kicking pandora in the box
 
Well I never heard of that. I think someone got there thingamyjigs confused. Only thing I can think of is that they might be talking about the keycodes. If you look in your keyfob there should be a sticker on the chip, is it the same?

If you can find someone with a nanocom, then they can read the number for you and also recode it to be a simpler number.

Cheers
 
The letters in EKA are are from hexadecimal code, A=10, B=11 and so on untill F, can be up to two letters in one code... that's a well known fact ... by those who know what's what in this area :cool:
 
neilly said:
Well I never heard of that. I think someone got there thingamyjigs confused. Only thing I can think of is that they might be talking about the keycodes. If you look in your keyfob there should be a sticker on the chip, is it the same?

If you can find someone with a nanocom, then they can read the number for you and also recode it to be a simpler number.

Cheers
Click to expand...
that was the number they had on record for it, ive no handbook so cant check in there, have not looked in key,
 
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sierrafery said:
The letters in EKA are are from hexadecimal code, A=10, B=11 and so on untill F, can be up to two letters in one code... that's a well known fact ... by those who know what's what in this area :cool:[/QUOTE
neilly said:
Useful to know, Mine was never written down in HEX, they say you learn something new everyday.

Cheers
Click to expand...

going by this i have a F in mine so that would be a 15, eg 97F3 would be entered as 9-7-15-3 ?
Click to expand...
 
going by this i have a F in mine so that would be a 15, eg 97F3 would be entered as 9-7-15-3 ?
Click to expand...
yes, that's why changing it with tester to a combination of small numbers(let's say from 1 to 6) is a good move to be easy to insert.... just that then it's known only by who changed it and doesnt match with what you get from the dealer and if it's lost you are f*ck*d
 
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You dont have to try anything , if you connect a dedicated tester you can read it or change it and remember it...as long as you know what's stored in the BCU you'll have to use it only when necessary no need for testing only the latch must work well for it cos if the latch switch is making tricks the code is useless
 
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