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D2 brake pedal to the floor
- Thread starter Andy P3
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Hi mate
scared the life out of me when I had to bleed my first abs unit, sounded like a hammer drill
brian47
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Hi mate
scared the life out of me when I had to bleed my first abs unit, sounded like a hammer drill
I'm considering changing the brake fluid at the next service, not a "drain and replace", just forcing new stuff through to push the old stuff out. Brake fluid is, after all hygroscopic and should be changed every five years or so.
Since I don't have a pressure bleed tank I'll pass it over to the garage to do at the next service for me.
jamesmartin
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a jar and pipe on each caliper will do that
brian47
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Yeah, I know. I've done it on many previous cars in the past. I have no real problem getting down to the level of the bleed nipples either, but returning to an upright position these days presents some slight difficulties.
Apart from which, it's not really a job I would relish doing at the side of the road.
When I recently done my rear wishbone my pops came over and I replaced all the brake fluid, while he pushed the brake pedal
The old fluid was red , used a jar and tube and started furthest one away first then rear right, front left, front right and had a pedal, then used the iid to bleed out the abs modulator for good measure , done the bleeding until each wheel came out clear
Used about 3 x litres , which I think was enough to ensure I got all of it out
Have got a vaccum brake pump that I can attach to the air compressor as I wasn’t sure how difficult it would be to bleed and replace all the fluid
Wonder if it changed red because it was old or had water in it, as I’ve never seen red brake fluid before
brian47
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At least you had some help there,Gary. I've only got me and I'm getting a bit long in the tooth for doing these kinds of jobs now, I can do almost anything on the Disco provided that I can do it standing up! Added to which I haven't really got anywhere to do the job. Yes I have a garage, but it's a "council garage" and it's too short, too narrow and too low for the Disco to fit into so I just keep it for storage and a bit of a workshop. So I would have to work out on the road, and on this bit of road, nobody cares about anybody else.
Shame mate about the distance as I would have happily come and helped u
Didn’t realise my pops was coming over so that’s why I got the vacuum pump so one person can bleed them out
comes with an automatic refil container for the master cylinder , turn it upside and once it reaches the level it stops, only used that part as my dad was there to do the pedal
Shame we couldn’t organise a workshop weekend , so can then help others who need a hand and save them struggling on there own
Hi Brian, when bleeding the calipers I use the tube and jar method. This I've done manually with a cursing assistant, namely my elderly father whom refers to the Disco, "That #+;$ing motor".
When using Hawkeye I go all through the sequence bleeding the modulator about 4 times, and yes it sounds like a hammer drill, nearly gave my old man a heart attack.
I then bleed the calipers. I've even made up a couple of tubes with 11 and 13 mm brake nipples so I can, one at a time remove the outlets from the modulator and manually bleed each one with my dad pumping the brake pedal. Once done then a manual bleed of the calipers is done in the correct order.
As said before, I've tried a different modulator and still the exact results occur, including when I force the rear nearside inlet valve on and the pedal goes firm.
I'd just like to say thanks for all the help and welcomes to the forum, and especially Bantam1's kind offer to relieve me of more of my quickly replenishing funds.
Andy
When using Hawkeye I go all through the sequence bleeding the modulator about 4 times, and yes it sounds like a hammer drill, nearly gave my old man a heart attack.
I then bleed the calipers. I've even made up a couple of tubes with 11 and 13 mm brake nipples so I can, one at a time remove the outlets from the modulator and manually bleed each one with my dad pumping the brake pedal. Once done then a manual bleed of the calipers is done in the correct order.
As said before, I've tried a different modulator and still the exact results occur, including when I force the rear nearside inlet valve on and the pedal goes firm.
I'd just like to say thanks for all the help and welcomes to the forum, and especially Bantam1's kind offer to relieve me of more of my quickly replenishing funds.
Andy
@brian47
Hi mate , hope u don’t mind me asking but find this a very interesting thread, yeh I know need to get out more
I’ve always bled out the lines and calipers first then the modulator , see the OP has done it the other way round, is that the procedure for the D2 s please or that’s how it should be on every system
Thks buddy
Hi mate , hope u don’t mind me asking but find this a very interesting thread, yeh I know need to get out more
I’ve always bled out the lines and calipers first then the modulator , see the OP has done it the other way round, is that the procedure for the D2 s please or that’s how it should be on every system
Thks buddy
jamesmartin
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airs got to come out of the bleed nipples so modulator before calipers
Last edited:
jamesmartin
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as long as air is bled down line to caliper sequence doesnt matter, i crack the pipes at the modulator if system has been dry pimp fluid till it runs clear then tighten and start on the calipers
brian47
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All my previous "deep" work on braking systems has been on older vehicles, those without ABS, but the master cylinder on the Moggie 1000 and minor could be a bit of a trial, poor quality material used in the casting of the master cylinder could see the brake fluid "washing out" the carbon in the material over time making it porus allowing air to get in through the casting.
I've always started at the furthest wheel cylinder and if I was doing it on my own I would use one of those rubber tubes with a non-return valve in it as well as a jar with a drop of fluid in the bottom. Sort of "belt and braces" I suppose.
Many thks and indeed I’m the same in personally doing the furthest wheel first
Also done it with the tube in fluid, but it didn’t have the NRV , just ensured it stayed in the fluid
Found the automatic master cyl filler container very useful , small isolating valve is ha day
I got one the dirt cheap hand vacuum pumps last year so if I have to do the brakes on my own ,should make life easier, lol
8ha
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don't know much about abs brakes on disco are you sure your master cylinder is good to prove this either get brake pipe with to unions on end screw in to master cylinder ports loosely pump until no bubbles then screw up and try pedal or you could do it with right size ball bearing and 2 union nuts not very master cylinder faulty but possible have had 2 new clutch clutch master cylinders both leaking week after fitting (trw)
Sorry for the long delay in replying, I've been a bit under the weather. Right, I've checked servo rod and all is well, checked master cylinder and that is ok. Last weekend I made 4 brake lines that I fitted into the 4 outlets of the abs pump and had them all going into a glass jar. I used the Hawkeye to bleed the modulator for nearly an hour and had a constant stream of very, very fine bubbles coming from all 4 outlets. After I bled the calipers the pedal still went to floor. I think I've got a knackered modulator that must be sucking in air. I hope I'm wrong and someone will say that I should have bled the modulator for another hour as they all do that.
Andy
Andy
jamesmartin
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how do you know its not the master cylinder pulling in air
Good point James, I blocked up the outlets to the master cylinder with a couple of ball bearings and some brake unions and stood on the pedal with both feet and the pedal didn't move a millimetre, but what you say is a good point as when the Hawkeye bleeds the modulator it sucks the fluid from the master cylinder. I'll have to make up a piece of brake line with some clear tubing to connect in between the inlets and modulator. Won't be till the weekend though.
Andy
Andy
