cylinder head replacement

Didn't turn the engine over whilst the head off .....put everything back together and did turn over on the key .....no start......I'm worried now that I will have done damage to the valves having incorrectly put one of the sprockets back on.....I incorrectly used the ex slot on the inlet cam....then lined the timing marks up .........how will I know if valves are damaged now ?..

they shouldnt be its a common mistake ,ive retimed quite a few for people having done the same thing ,plus youd feel it when you turn it over

Ok.....I'll have to start over at the weekend....so I can use the marks on the sprockets - I.e exhaust & in to set the cams ?..I'll try and pick up a locking tool fom somewhere too....

once you have set the marks up like this
Google Image Result for http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/indytech/2010-05-16_152201_MGF.jpg
turn the engine over by hand at least 3 turns then check all the marks line up again before you go any further
Ron

Ok.....the diagramm shows the position the crankshaft needs to be - I.e two dots either side of the line......but it isn't clear what position the camshaft pulleys should be in?..

rear inlet with inlet mark at 3 oclock ,front exhaust with exhaust mark at 9 oclock after first ensuring cam pins are in the right slots

jamesmartin said:

rear inlet with inlet mark at 3 oclock ,front exhaust with exhaust mark at 9 oclock after first ensuring cam pins are in the right slots

Click to expand...

Thanks - and to ensure they are right - rear inlet cam pulley is located on the in slot on the pulley and the front exhaust cam pulley located on the exhaust slot of the pulley ???....

Really appreciate the help.

yes

Fingers crossed - its quite straightforward isn't it :smokin:

Johnbrunt said:

Ok.....the diagramm shows the position the crankshaft needs to be - I.e two dots either side of the line......but it isn't clear what position the camshaft pulleys should be in?..

Click to expand...

It's much more accurate to lock the crank through the flywheel. I've seen the crank pulley dots 1/2 a tooth out which equates to 1 tooth on the cam pulley. This error would give you a 7º cam timing shift

if you look at the 3rd picture on the right it shows you the cams
but also look carefully at the picture as you will see evan in that picture the cams are not 100% in line could evan be one tooth out use a straight edge so the marks line up across the centre of both bolt holes
Google Image Result for http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/indytech/2010-05-16_152201_MGF.jpg
Ron

Nodge68 said:

It's much more accurate to lock the crank through the flywheel. I've seen the crank pulley dots 1/2 a tooth out which equates to 1 tooth on the cam pulley. This error would give you a 7º cam timing shift

Click to expand...

How is this done - is there a special tool or just jam in a flat screwdriver etc?...and is there a mark on the flywheel ?....

Cheers

Johnbrunt said:

How is this done - is there a special tool or just jam in a flat screwdriver etc?...and is there a mark on the flywheel ?....

Cheers

Click to expand...

There is a special tool but unless you are doing the job often? I'd just use the chuck end of a 6 mm twist drill. If you look at the gearbox back plate on the exhaust side of the engine there is a small hole. This hole allows a locking pin to engage with a hole in the flywheel to lock the crank in exactly the right place. You need to turn the crank slowly while lightly pushing you pin or drill in against the flywheel. You will feel the hole knock the pin. At this point you might need to turn the crank back a fraction so you pin can be inserted. It's much more accurate than looking at dots, it's the only Rover approved method too

Nodge68 said:

There is a special tool but unless you are doing the job often? I'd just use the chuck end of a 6 mm twist drill. If you look at the gearbox back plate on the exhaust side of the engine there is a small hole. This hole allows a locking pin to engage with a hole in the flywheel to lock the crank in exactly the right place. You need to turn the crank slowly while lightly pushing you pin or drill in against the flywheel. You will feel the hole knock the pin. At this point you might need to turn the crank back a fraction so you pin can be inserted. It's much more accurate than looking at dots, it's the only Rover approved method too

Click to expand...

And then that's the right position for setting the cams to .?

Johnbrunt said:

And then that's the right position for setting the cams to .?

Click to expand...

Once the crank is locked using a locking tool , drill or 6mm bolt, you can safely turn the cams to the timing marks and fit the belt. The safe locked position isn't at TDC so valve contact won't happen, thence the reason it's called the SAFE position

Ok.... Cheers.....cam sprocket locking tool should be here tomorrow so will look forward to a bit of fun on Sunday

Hi sorry I haven't had chance to get back to you.
The cams are the same and can be swapped from front to rear, the problem comes in that the cam belt pulleys can be swapped from front to rear and this will cause problems.
From memory the inlet cam pin should be at 2pm based on a clock face and the exhaust at 7pm.
When you put the cam pulleys on the rear inlet pulley should have the word inlet to the front / centre of the engine (3pm position) and the front pulley should have the word exhaust pointing to the centre of the engine to face the word inlet (9pm position) and the inlet word should be at the 3pm position.)
I had to play around with the pulleys on mine because I got them mixed up and it wouldn't start, an old mechanic friend of mine took the **** and told me how set them up I did and it then started straight away.
If you've got the cam timing wrong it will normally turn over without touching the valves but it will never start.
Mike