Cylinder head gasket 1.8petrol

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anlswans

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Heard a lot about potential CHG problems on pre 1999 models, mines is 98, only done 46K miles.
Got oil (lots of) in coolant expansion tank, I assume this is a gasket failure, is this a CHG failure due to dissimilar metal corrosion between head and block, also heard talk about cylinder liners shifting upwards and damaging gasket, could this be the problem. Are there any ways of telling before paying someone to take off the head and then being told the engine is shagged. Hope someone can help.
Al S.
 
anlswans said:
Heard a lot about potential CHG problems on pre 1999 models, mines is 98, only done 46K miles.
Got oil (lots of) in coolant expansion tank, I assume this is a gasket failure, is this a CHG failure due to dissimilar metal corrosion between head and block, also heard talk about cylinder liners shifting upwards and damaging gasket, could this be the problem. Are there any ways of telling before paying someone to take off the head and then being told the engine is shagged. Hope someone can help.
Al S.
Click to expand...

Yup, head gasket gone. Liners shifting dont damage the gasket (thats fooked anyway) but damage the head (and the block) Skim, pressure test, metal locating pegs, new head bolts, gasket with saver shim etc may cure it, but if the liners have sunk in the block its pretty well fooked. No way of telling till you get it apart. Budget for remote thermostat and full flush of cooling system or it will go again. Plenty of threads on here if you do a SEARCH.
 
I Have a 1.8 GS 2000. Mine went last year. started as a misfire (though a plug had gone) about 2 miles from home. Got home engine was cooking. Caused by thermostat breaking. The temperature sensor apparently is on the wrong side of stat so if stat busts temperature guage says still o.k.. Got head skimmed but only needed a bit off. Rebuilt with up-rated CHG new bolts etc and got plumbing altered as per Land Rover recomendation to locate stat remotely. Think from memorySkim, CHG, Bolts, plumbing, 3 flushes, oil and all other bits cost about £350. Used all genuine parts. Mate did work as a favour. Whilst in bits it may be worth changing the water pump (£30) as a month after i had this done water pump went and had to do timing belt etc again.

Good Luck:(
 
you need to do a search on here, there are loads of threads about it. However, think you are the first person to suggest "dissimilar metal corrosion" as a cause !

there are a number of common factors, or weak points, including head gasket design (a new style upgraded one is available and should always be used), the plastic dowels which locate the head onto the block (new style metal ones are available and should always be used), and the location of the thermostat is also an issue. There is a modification kit available which allows you to remove the exisiting thermostat and relocate it somewhere more sensible. Again,do a search and you will find the answers.

good luck and welcome to the zone.
 
anlswans said:
Are there any ways of telling before paying someone to take off the head and then being told the engine is shagged. Hope someone can help.
Click to expand...

It is unlikely that there will be any engine problems as such.

I did a HG on a K-series that had green emulsivied oil in the engine due to mixing with water. After all the upgrades mentioned already it went better than ever.

One change not mentioned above is the modified oil rail on the bottom end. This helps to 'stiffen' the whole engine. The replacement head dowels (steel for plastic) stop the 'head shuffle' which is often the cause of the fault in the first place.

HTH
 
If yu are gonna do the job then do it proper....

latest head gasket
replace the bottom rail (new one is stiffer end stops the aly block flexing)
remote thermostat
Electric water pump (with after shut down run on)
 
and fur those that dont believe me - and think its all sorted.............


from the MG-Rover forum..

nebburns said:
Its been a small while since I looked at this thread and I haven’t really read all the new posts, but for anyone that is honestly interested in finding out about the K series and its related problems of HGF look towards the book

"The Rover K Series 16V Engine" by Des Hammill.

Its a fantastic read and some very interesting facts. I noticed that Technozen had reported that MLS are still failing; I can confirm this is correct particularly on the Freelanders.

The oil rail is not a mandatory item to be fitted BUT is recommended.

Lastly, although the PRT kit is now being fitted and also the MLS (I’m guilty of both on my Vi) its still the inevitable that these engines will still fail at some point in the future. The issue still remains that temperature at which the head sees. All the preventive tasks are only delaying a failure which backs up my findings too regarding the freelander failures - these were fitted with the grey PRT, MLS and shim and oil rail.....fitted my LR.

Ben.
Click to expand...
 
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