CV boot gaitor replacement

Grrrrrr · Mar 10, 2015

Ah, the joy, my off-side CV gaitor is leaking!

How tricky is replacing it and what's the procedure? RAVE seems rather quiet on the subject although the FRONT SUSPENSION > REPAIR > SWIVEL HUB section seems to be in the right area.

This thread has some nice photos (from Nickffc) and great description (from IrishRover) in it on the boot itself but is missing the prior steps: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/p38-cv-boot-replacement-help-109792.html.

Q) Does the drive shaft have to be removed from the car? Can it be done in-situ?

I'm guessing I need to:

Undo big nut with split pin through it.
Jack wheel up and remove wheel.
Remove brake discs and calipers and carriers.
Remove ABS sensor.
Remove 4 bolts and hub assembly?

This the bit that gets a bit uncertain. How much more do I have to take off?

Can I just slip the shaft out with the CV joint?

How hard is it to get the drive-shaft out?

Cheers,

J

Buzz2406 · Mar 10, 2015

Hi John,

I have literally just done mine.

Once you get to the point that you have the hub removed the cv joint will come out. I would purchase a new seal for where the drive shaft enters the differential. Mine was ok but if you have the cv joint and shaft out it makes sense to replace it.

Everything else is just a reverse of getting the hub assembly out.

Good luck

Buzz

tarphenry · Mar 10, 2015

Did the same job 2 weeks ago including new seal, about 2 hrs .remember to clean hub well and apply copperslip, just in case you need to remove it again later.

Grrrrrr · Mar 10, 2015

That sounds remarkably easy, although I bet the whole damn thing is rusted into 1 lump!

How does the boot clip on? I assume it isn't 2 jubilee clips? Do I need some special too to crimp the clips on the replacement boot up?

tarphenry · Mar 10, 2015

Clips are closed using old fashioned pincers dead easy .You will have no probs. Take a deep breath and loosen big nut before you jack it up and remove wheel.

Grrrrrr · Mar 10, 2015

I probably ought to buy some pincers.

My toolkit is somewhat basic!

Thanks all, really helpful as ever.

Saint.V8 · Mar 10, 2015

Buzz2406 said:
Hi John,

.....

Who's John????

Grrrrrr · Mar 10, 2015

Saint.V8 said:
Who's John????

Don't know, Dave.

Grrrrrr · Mar 13, 2015

Are there any special tools required for getting the half-shaft in / out?

I've managed to cadge a 32mm socket. I've got spanners. My plan was to take everything off the hub, try to split the hub assembly (4 bolts) and then just hammer until everything fell apart!

tarphenry · Mar 13, 2015

I used penetrating oil.then had a brew .went back and rotated the hub using a drift. it then tapped out fairly easily.I think the brew helped break the rust.

wammers · Mar 13, 2015

tarphenry said:
I used penetrating oil.then had a brew .went back and rotated the hub using a drift. it then tapped out fairly easily.I think the brew helped break the rust.

Think it was more down to the penetrating oil to be honest.

Castor · Mar 13, 2015

wammers said:
Think it was more down to the penetrating oil to be honest.

False causality on your part there Wammers - do you not realise what tea and hope can do to a project?

wammers · Mar 13, 2015

Castor said:
False causality on your part there Wammers - do you not realise what tea and hope can do to a project?

Have you often cured a limp by hitting your thumb with and hammer?

Grrrrrr · Mar 13, 2015

They'll be a fair amount of hoping going on. Having never done this before and limited instructions there's a high probability of a visit from Captain Cock-up.

I see the weather is due to turn cold tomorrow. Joy.

Grrrrrr · Mar 13, 2015

tarphenry said:
I used penetrating oil.then had a brew .went back and rotated the hub using a drift. it then tapped out fairly easily.I think the brew helped break the rust.

Drift. Hmmm. Yes, one of those would probably be useful. In its absence it'll be a cold chisel!

wammers · Mar 13, 2015

Grrrrrr said:
Drift. Hmmm. Yes, one of those would probably be useful. In its absence it'll be a cold chisel!

Apply Plusgas to interface of bearing housing flange and swivel hub, allow to soak. Undo four bolts holding hub bearing housing to swivel hub. Back off about 4 mm. Tap bolt heads in turn to free bearing housing from swivel hub. Apply more Plusgas. Back off a further 4mm and repeat until bearing housing is free of swivel hub. Clean mating surfaces and apply Copraslip to them and bolt threads on reassembly. Simples.

Grrrrrr · Mar 13, 2015

Thanks Wammers. Gave everything a spray of Plusgas this lunchtime. Will do so again tonight while I'm tackling the exhaust.

Castor · Mar 13, 2015

wammers said:
Have you often cured a limp by hitting your thumb with and hammer?

No - but I have disabled a leg by doing that. Only able to hop for quite some time.

wammers · Mar 13, 2015

Castor said:
No - but I have disabled a leg by doing that. Only able to hop for quite some time.

Next time try the change leg in mid hop style. It's a lot funnier when played back on Youtube.

Castor · Mar 14, 2015

wammers said:
change leg in mid hop style

change leg in mid hop style = plummet.

CV boot gaitor replacement

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