cranks but won´t start

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freppesito

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just drove my range and then parked it for 3 hours.
jumped in again and the engine cranks fine but it never fired at all. not even a little bit.
has checked the relays and fuseboxes and it alla seems to run just fine. clickes and ticks when turning the ignition on.
It drained the battery totally also after i left it over night at my job.

any ideas. ??
 
Most of the P38 start issues I see, are following a flat battery. There are a few things to check. Is it petrol or diesel.
Does the central locking work off the fob.
When the battery goes flat it can scramble or damage the becm logic board processor. It's like winding down the voltage on your desktop computer. Eventually it throws a wobbler and corrupts the data. the most important data it corrupts is either the fob code or if diesel or 1999 onward petrol the ems code. One other thing, does the engine management light come on when you put the ignition on.

There is some more info at Car Repair | Car Parts | WorkShop Consumables | Auto Electrical Supplies
 
the battery went dead after the starting problem.
Its a petrol
central locking ok
got a message after charging the battery "gearbox fault"
No engine management light comes on


Mtechuk said:
Most of the P38 start issues I see, are following a flat battery. There are a few things to check. Is it petrol or diesel.
Does the central locking work off the fob.
When the battery goes flat it can scramble or damage the becm logic board processor. It's like winding down the voltage on your desktop computer. Eventually it throws a wobbler and corrupts the data. the most important data it corrupts is either the fob code or if diesel or 1999 onward petrol the ems code. One other thing, does the engine management light come on when you put the ignition on.

There is some more info at Car Repair | Car Parts | WorkShop Consumables | Auto Electrical Supplies
Click to expand...
 
If the Engine management light doesn't come on briefly with the ignition key on then this is a sign that the Becm and Engine ecu are not security matched or the inertia switch has triped. It is in the drivers right footwell panel. You will see the hinged flap with a fuel symbol on it. Press the button down on the top to see if it has tripped.
Failing that If you have anybody local with rovacom or Autologic then you can have it checked.
You need to see if the EMS codes match in both the Engine Ecu and Becm.
If you get stuck give me a shout.
 
you will probab;y need to sync the eka code when you return to it. if so this could cure yr probs, obviously you will need a fully charged battery!!!!

also check that yr in N or P, i spent around 30 mins trying to get mine going only to realise the bloody thing was in D and won't start for obvious reasons!!!
 
He mentioned that the engine cranks but doesn't start so that probably rules out the gear position switch and If it needed the EKA it would normaly come up on the dash Eka lockout or Engine imobilised press keyfob.
 
i just checked the reset button on the inertia switch and it was ok.
by the engine management symbol, do you mean the yellow/orange engine symbol, if that´s the one , it lights up as normal.

god damn it.. let my lord work again..

broken crank sensor. does it stop the engine from cranking?
broken fule pump, were is it located?
what else? can i reset all computers by taking + cable off during the night?
 
Yep that's the right light.
The engine will still crank with a faulty crank sensor.
The fuel Pump is mounted in the top of the fuel tank. Its not the best thing to do but you can check for fuel by pressing the shreader valve on the fuel rail.
I think you need to get the ems codes checked and then you can see any other relevant faults in the ecu.
 
The only other obvious thing i can think to check is again in the kick panel the 10 pin white connector. It carries a power line and the immo signal wire. Sometimes they go green and it stops the communication.
 
Mtechuk said:
He mentioned that the engine cranks but doesn't start so that probably rules out the gear position switch and If it needed the EKA it would normaly come up on the dash Eka lockout or Engine imobilised press keyfob.
Click to expand...


it will probably need eka code when he gets back to it!!!!!!
 
It needs a security resynch with Testbook,Bosch injected cars still crank when the code is lost,Gems dont crank.
2 mins on Testbook will sort it,get a new RF receiver while you are at it.
 
but is it possible that the car just looses those codes just by turning off the car?
cause the battery went dead during the night after that the problem occured.

seems like i have to tow it to a garage and plug it in..



eightinavee said:
It needs a security resynch with Testbook,Bosch injected cars still crank when the code is lost,Gems dont crank.
2 mins on Testbook will sort it,get a new RF receiver while you are at it.
Click to expand...
 
if you do tow it, just remember to put fuse 11 in!! that will put it into tow mode on the electric g/box,

have you tried charging the battery? has it had any effect
 
Remembered a trouble that occured one day before it went dead.
i came out to the car, and it just flickered when i tried to start it, and i checked the + cable on the battery and the one going to the fusebox was loose.
i tvisted it a bit to get contact and the car started, when i looked today i saw that there were massive corrosion and bad contact on the +pole, so when my batteri is fully charged i will give it a go again.

can this have caused damage to the electronic devices. ??
 
this is what happened to me, on the earth cable tho, i didn't mention it on this thread but i have on others, don't know why i didn't mention it. make sure everything is tight and try eka code. will probably start as soon as you have got code in!!

do you know procedure for eka code?
 
yes i have the EKA code.. it´s the one were you turn the key in the door in different positions?

keeping my fingers crossed and hope that it starts.
 
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