Crank pulley...

Hi, any of yous got any tips for removing it?

My book of lies says to stick the car in first/low gear, but its an auto

cheers

Ever thought of using 'Park'

Comes in handy when parking, not sure how useful it is for stopping a crankshaft pulley rotating though!

Will try a strap wrench & a big hammer!

cheers

Search the forum, this has been covered before.

classic kev said:

Search the forum, this has been covered before.

Click to expand...

Hi, I did try!

Read theres a (stupidly priced) tool for the tdi & P38 engines, all the others I read were for manuals... will 'av another look

cheers

take out spark plug and insert piston jam.An alloy one or plastic is best.an old tooth brush will work.

Beast o Bodmin said:

take out spark plug and insert piston jam.An alloy one or plastic is best.an old tooth brush will work.

Click to expand...

That sounds like an ace way to bend a few valves to me.

Auto or not, isn't the best trick the big socket on the pulley bolt and a bar jammed under the chassis right side - and hit the starter?

Take the king lead out FIRST, of course so the engine doesn't fire up.

CharlesY

CharlesY said:

That sounds like an ace way to bend a few valves to me.

Auto or not, isn't the best trick the big socket on the pulley bolt and a bar jammed under the chassis right side - and hit the starter?

Take the king lead out FIRST, of course so the engine doesn't fire up.

CharlesY

Click to expand...

as above thats what i did

CharlesY said:

Auto or not, isn't the best trick the big socket on the pulley bolt and a bar jammed under the chassis right side - and hit the starter?

Take the king lead out FIRST, of course so the engine doesn't fire up.

Click to expand...

That's one way of doing it and I have heard differing stories about the success or otherwise of the outcome.

My only experience is with my 3.9RRC. The crank pulley has a notch in it, I cut down a length of steel bar so I could wedge the bar into the slot and against the chassis rail then using a long breaker bar undid the crank. Putting it back on is a little easier but the same process, just wedge the notch in the pulley against something substantial. BTW it is useless to try and wedge the crank pulley with a lever off the ground it has to be off the chassis.

classic kev said:

My only experience is with my 3.9RRC. The crank pulley has a notch in it, I cut down a length of steel bar so I could wedge the bar into the slot and against the chassis rail then using a long breaker bar undid the crank.

Click to expand...

Cheers mines got the notch so I'll give it a try... if I can't wedge it enough I'll be tempted to just weld the pulley to the chassis with a bar- that'll get the fecker off. Then just chop it off when the bolts out

Another method is to remove the starter motor and wedge something in the starter ring, locking the flywheel.

Cheers, just one more thought...

if I was to just hire the biggest baddest impact wrench ever seen in Barnet in the world ever... ?

Good news is I have a lot of space with the rad etc out the way

cheers again

do it and soak it in oil over night.also heat it up first but not blue or it will snap arf...

Don't go too mad you could hurt yourself. Remember the crank pulley is torqued up pretty high, something getting on for 200ftlbs.

classic kev said:

Don't go too mad you could hurt yourself. Remember the crank pulley is torqued up pretty high, something getting on for 200ftlbs.

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More like twice that ... it should be VEERY tight indeed.

CharlesY

240ft/lb makita got the bastard off... just!!! If it was a milli-torque extra it wouldn't I reckon

cheers people

me timing chain is so loose is almost falling off!

not all gunged up though