Cracked cylinder bore

Wee dregor · Jul 29, 2022

So I was changing head gasket today and everthing was going well stripping down milky mess in camshafts took head off bolts came out clean and gasket was horrendous split and cooked Head block looked fairly flat and clean on inspection 1of the cylinder bores got a crack in 1 of the liners not all the way down but broke through any ideas is has anyone experienced this on inspection and where do I go from here. Oh 1 tip cover exhaust after taking manifold off my 17mm socket fell in exhaust fishing it out with a magnet not fun

Wee dregor · Jul 29, 2022

Trying to upload pic

Wee dregor · Jul 29, 2022

Nodge68 · Jul 29, 2022

Wee dregor said:
A

You need to learn to take better pictures.

Wee dregor said:
where do I go from here.

Your best bet is to replace the liner, but only do that if the piston is ok, but it will need new rings.
The engine has likely been run with low coolant, which this engine doesn't tolerate for very long.
You'll also need to check the head for hardness, as it's heat treated, and overheating the engine ruins the heat treatment, making the head too soft to last long after a rebuild.
The K series is good in that the liners are replaceable. But also bad because loss of coolant doesn't do it any good.

Wee dregor · Jul 29, 2022

Nodge68 said:
You need to learn to take better pictures.

Your best bet is to replace the liner, but only do that if the piston is ok, but it will need new rings.
The engine has likely been run with low coolant, which this engine doesn't tolerate for very long.
You'll also need to check the head for hardness, as it's heat treated, and overheating the engine ruins the heat treatment, making the head too soft to last long after a rebuild.
The K series is good in that the liners are replaceable. But also bad because loss of coolant doesn't do it any good.

Nodge68 said:

You need to learn to take better pictures.

Your best bet is to replace the liner, but only do that if the piston is ok, but it will need new rings.
The engine has likely been run with low coolant, which this engine doesn't tolerate for very long.
You'll also need to check the head for hardness, as it's heat treated, and overheating the engine ruins the heat treatment, making the head too soft to last long after a rebuild.
The K series is good in that the liners are replaceable. But also bad because loss of coolant doesn't do it any good.

Click to expand...

Th

Nodge68 said:
You need to learn to take better pictures.

Your best bet is to replace the liner, but only do that if the piston is ok, but it will need new rings.
The engine has likely been run with low coolant, which this engine doesn't tolerate for very long.
You'll also need to check the head for hardness, as it's heat treated, and overheating the engine ruins the heat treatment, making the head too soft to last long after a rebuild.
The K series is good in that the liners are replaceable. But also bad because loss of coolant doesn't do it any good.

Thanks that's really helpful it's a miracle that the pictures have uploaded albeit blurry will have a think on next plan of action really don't want to give up on car as I've replaced so much over the last year and love it but I've no knowlage of replacing liners was hoping for a smooth gasket change and rebuild would have done the trick and back on the road

Nodge68 · Jul 29, 2022

Wee dregor said:
I've replaced so much over the last year and love it but I've no knowlage of replacing liners was hoping for a smooth gasket change and rebuild would have done the trick and back on the road

Replacement of the liner isn't that difficult. You need to remove the sump, then the oil rail, so you can access the conrod bolts.
Once you've removed the piston with liner, you install the piston in the new liner are refit. You will need some Hylomar to seal the bottom of the liner to the block, but it's really not difficult to do. I've done the same job several times over the last 2 decades.

Wee dregor · Jul 29, 2022

Hi thanks for your information after another inspection and looking and apart from the crack in just the 1 liner the other 3 are imacculate not even a scratch and the head doesn't need a skim so I think I'm going to replace the liner failing the liner change would you reccomend repairing the crack or change liner regardless thanks

Nodge68 · Jul 29, 2022

Wee dregor said:
I'm going to replace the liner failing the liner change would you reccomend repairing the crack or change liner regardless thanks

Just change the liner. They are cheap and readily available.
You don't even need any gaskets, as all the joints use same anaerobic sealer as the cam ladder.

The liner is sealed to the block with blue Hylomar, which is the only other sealer needed.

Wee dregor · Jul 31, 2022

Hi Nodge I decided to take your advice and not give up on replacing broken liner I've managed to work on car today I've managed to take out oil sump and oil pick up gauze looked OK no rubbish in there and removed oil rail to access piston and con rad bolts my question is I can only just access 1 bolt on piston sods law cylinder 2 and 3 are very accessible not the 1im looking to change what are my options on moving piston to make bolts more accessible or is there another way any help or advice is much appreciated and thanks for giving me the courage to persue!

andyfreelandy · Jul 31, 2022

Don't rotate crank with head off as you will dislodge the good liners from their seats!!

You can use bolts and washers to fix the liners at the top and then turn the crank. If the head is off then no valve contact will occur!!..
Obvs set it all correctly before replacing head.

Nodge68 · Jul 31, 2022

Only turn the crankshaft with retraining washers on the liners you don't what to remove.

The liner is removed with the piston.

Here's the block with the liner removed.

These are the sealants required for reassembly. The Hylomar is for the bottom land on the liner. The 574 is for all the metal to metal joints on the engine.

Wee dregor · Jul 31, 2022

This is exactly what I needed a photo and a great description!! I was scared to turn the crankshaft atall thank you top man let you know how I get on many thanks

Wee dregor · Aug 14, 2022

Just an update after trying to get a stubborn cylinder liner out which would not budge finally managed to free it albeit split in 2 and has been a nightmare to get out. I've managed to replace liner with new 1 fitted and refit piston back in refitted oil rail and sump. My question is my crankshaft won't turn atall with crankshaft bolt to re align before fitting head any ideas as to why it feels it won't budge or turn and what I can do to line up

Andy Warren · Aug 14, 2022

Sorry to hear but please don't force it, did you put any locking pins in to hold the crank when stripping it? (if it's capable of taking any that is).

Nodge68 · Aug 14, 2022

Wee dregor said:
Just an update after trying to get a stubborn cylinder liner out which would not budge finally managed to free it albeit split in 2 and has been a nightmare to get out. I've managed to replace liner with new 1 fitted and refit piston back in refitted oil rail and sump. My question is my crankshaft won't turn atall with crankshaft bolt to re align before fitting head any ideas as to why it feels it won't budge or turn and what I can do to line up

Did you use different big end bearings, or put the old ones back in?

Wee dregor · Aug 14, 2022

Hi I've only replaced 1 cylinder liner in the block for a new 1 and used the old piston with new rings could it just be that it's so dry with no oil in that it's locking and not turning the crank or could it be the crankshaft catching the new liner under neath I don't want to force it but since I replaced piston seems I can't turn crankshaft and scared to force it

Wee dregor · Aug 14, 2022

I never locked the crankshaft as I need to turn it to locate the conrad bolts on piston to access I only left it in gear never locked it

Wee dregor · Aug 14, 2022

Nodge68 said:
Did you use different big end bearings, or put the old ones back in?

The head is still off the car only the liner changed and replaced for new wanted to line up crankshaft back inline before putting head back on

Andy Warren · Aug 14, 2022

Wee dregor said:
The head is still off the car only the liner changed and replaced for new wanted to line up crankshaft back inline before putting head back on

Did you check the piston & con rod would go up & down the bore freely before bolting the big end cap on ?
With it unbolted & the liner held in place(along with some clean oil in the bore) you should be able to push the piston to the top of the bore & back down again.

Wee dregor · Aug 14, 2022

Andy Warren said:
Did you check the piston & con rod would go up & down the bore freely before bolting the big end cap on ?
With it unbolted & the liner held in place(along with some clean oil in the bore) you should be able to push the piston to the top of the bore & back down again.

I did push it down was a little tight but I didn't check if it was moving freely going to try pour a little oil down bore and try that it must just be a bit ridgit with it being in the liner dry maybe new rings just stopping it will try lube before I get breaker bar out thanks for you help

Cracked cylinder bore

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