Couldn't find a forum on mods

[Jack rush]

What mods have people done to there trucks ie lights expedition stuff dials and switches + anything else

I'm starting with a basic truck and want to make it into a off-road truck mostly for laneing once I turn 17
Thanks Jack

 

[neilly]

Hi Jack,

might help if you say what truck you got.

But for laning , A maintained car.
A set of AT tyres is nice , some outdoor kit to cut downed branches, membership to GLASS, a tablet / satnav with software to use for navigation is a bonus with maps, or/ and papermaps.
Waterproof kit.
A strong tow rope, sandwich box, flask and a few friends.

Plus a myriad of other stuff , depending on how much you want to spend.

Cheers

Cheers

 

[dieseldog69]

What mods have people done to there trucks ie lights expedition stuff dials and switches + anything else

I'm starting with a basic truck and want to make it into a off-road truck mostly for laneing once I turn 17
Thanks Jack

Don't need any mods for green laning.

Try looking in the members vehicle forum at the various build threads and see who has done what to their motors, it ain't no fun being part of the forum if everything is too easy to find.

 

[Jack rush]

And pay and play now and again

 

[neilly]

Are you planning on driving to and from the P&P?

Cheers

 

[Jack rush]

Yeah

 

[neilly]

Then do not mod it too much, in that way you will not be tempted to follow the big boys in their big toys and break it.

Cheers

 

[Henry_b]

A good Stock landy dunt' need mods to do green lanes..

 

[dieseldog69]

And pay and play now and again

If you wanna do P&P days too then consider things like locking diffs over and above suspension lifts and such as they will get you further and give far more bang for your buck without any adverse handling characteristics that can come from aggressive suspension lifts.

A good set of stock size (maybe +5%) 60/40 A/T tyres and a locker in the back axle with HD half shafts will put head and shoulders above the rest.

 

[Shimsteriom]

I thought this was a fred about BB and Accy!

 

[Jack rush]

Yes

 

[Jack rush]

What's over and above suspension?

 

[300bhp/ton]

A good Stock landy dunt' need mods to do green lanes..

Sensible boots (tyres) should be considered. Road tyres are not really that sensible unless you know the terrain. Road tyres are also more prone to punctures on non paved surfaces. MT’s are probably the best choice but an AT if not.

A good phone or iPad holder too with a subscription to an OS mapping tool very handy too for lanes. And a CB radio if in a group.

Good recovery points and a sensible tow rope.

 

[marjon]

@Jack rush Don’t let them overwhelm you.

Firstly, what are you driving? If it has a Land Rover badge, it ain’t a truck.

Just take it out and you will soon figure out what mods you need. For basic greening, you have everything you need all ready. If you go through a big puddle, i.e. a small river, and it stops, you may want to think about a snorkel kit. If you aren’t planning night runs, you don’t need a light bar. It all depends on what you want to do with it.

Tyres are the most important consideration at the moment. If it’s basic stuff around your area, ATs will be fine.

M

 

[Disco1BFG]

What's over and above suspension?

Over and above meaning you will get better results from the locking diff than you will with a lift, which IMHO are pointless - just hammering the drivetrain to get somewhere the vehicle shouldn't be going.

Worth a search on Auto torque biasing diffs too .... interesting topic in itself .... percieved wisdom is to fit one in the front first

 

[flat]

Over and above meaning you will get better results from the locking diff than you will with a lift, which IMHO are pointless - just hammering the drivetrain to get somewhere the vehicle shouldn't be going.

Worth a search on Auto torque biasing diffs too .... interesting topic in itself .... percieved wisdom is to fit one in the front first

I have long been toying with the idea of an ATB. I can’t afford to get both axles at once and was wondering which axle to put one in. Why put in from first?

 

[Disco1BFG]

I have long been toying with the idea of an ATB. I can’t afford to get both axles at once and was wondering which axle to put one in. Why put in from first?

If you search the web, you'll find quite a few posts on various forums saying that, as the front axle is the steering axle, then fitting in the front is the way to maintain directional stability in the conditions where an ATB is relevant*. I suspect they assume that the center diff is already done .... (so ideally you have three ATB's at least planned).... But this isn't 100% clear, as, of course the center can be locked on most LR's..

This seems to make sence, in that the fully driven rear might push you off on the tangent of a curve, whereas the front should assist in getting you round the bend ( though, some of us are already there )

I haven't seen anything about increased tyre wear/scrubbing from fitting an ATB to the front, so would be happy to hear of any research you do in this regard.

* if a wheel lifts, then an ATB is no use at all, and a locker would be required....

 

[300bhp/ton]

I have long been toying with the idea of an ATB. I can’t afford to get both axles at once and was wondering which axle to put one in. Why put in from first?

Depends on your use, but the rear normally first, although it doesn't really matter that much.

The rear won't have any impact on steering, while fitting one to the front, you will be able to tell it's there on the road. In the rear will help keep the vehicle straight on steep descents, but the front may aid you climbing out of ruts and similar.

 

[300bhp/ton]

* if a wheel lifts, then an ATB is no use at all, and a locker would be required....

While this is true, often off road in something with good suspension, such as a Land Rover, the wheel tends to go light and slip, rather than hanging way up in the air. Under these conditions the ATB will still operate. I believe the Ashcroft ATB is specifically setup to work for such a scenario (I may be wrong, but something David Ashcroft mentioned).

Another bonus is to use left foot breaking, even with a wheel in the air, this will make the ATB work and drive the opposite wheel. Not ideal for 100% dedicated rock crawling, but for most UK off roading works perfectly well.

 

[flat]

While this is true, often off road in something with good suspension, such as a Land Rover, the wheel tends to go light and slip, rather than hanging way up in the air. Under these conditions the ATB will still operate. I believe the Ashcroft ATB is specifically setup to work for such a scenario (I may be wrong, but something David Ashcroft mentioned).

Another bonus is to use left foot breaking, even with a wheel in the air, this will make the ATB work and drive the opposite wheel. Not ideal for 100% dedicated rock crawling, but for most UK off roading works perfectly well.

was going to say wouldnt left foot braking trick the ATB into working? And also if one wheel lifts presumably you still have the other axle with both wheels on the ground so with an ATB and centre diff locked *that* axle would maintain grip/drive?
Cross-axled might be a different situation, i have been cross axled a couple of times but centre diff lock has allowed me to drive out

Depends on your use, but the rear normally first, although it doesn't really matter that much.

The rear won't have any impact on steering, while fitting one to the front, you will be able to tell it's there on the road. In the rear will help keep the vehicle straight on steep descents, but the front may aid you climbing out of ruts and similar.

so what your saying is dont be tight and get both