Copperslip and nylock nuts???

I like copperslip.
And I like nylock nuts.
But - do they go together? My feelings are that the copperslip would stop the nylock nuts ripping correctly, and allow them to work loose. Am I right or wrong? If I'm right, I will carry on applying copperslip to the protruding thread after tightening up. This obviously doesn't help prevent corrosion between the nut and bolt.

I've always used it and ive never had any working their way loose

Dunt nuts grip with torque, not friction ??

Copper slip helps to stop things seizing dunnit ?

Chrisw8 said:

Dunt nuts grip with torque, not friction ??

Copper slip helps to stop things seizing dunnit ?

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nylon locks are the friction from the nylon preventing the nut from vibrating lose.

nuts lock by friction created by stretching the bolt, copaslip wont effect that especially with a nyloc

use both, no problems

flatlander said:

I like copperslip.
And I like nylock nuts.
But - do they go together? My feelings are that the copperslip would stop the nylock nuts ripping correctly, and allow them to work loose. Am I right or wrong? If I'm right, I will carry on applying copperslip to the protruding thread after tightening up. This obviously doesn't help prevent corrosion between the nut and bolt.

Click to expand...

No problem, I always use it on exterior nuts.

Both it is then, thanks all.

In the aviation world we do apply anti-seize (copper slip) to bolts in certain situations but you only ever apply it to the bolts shank and never the threads. Most torque loadings are specified for a dry threads so if you torque a nut to 100 lb/ft for example it will produce a certain amount of bolt stretch (clamping force), if on the other hand you lubricate the threads and then apply 100 lb/ft you will actually generate something like 30% more clamping force due to the reduced friction on the threads. Probably not an issue in most cases on a LR but in the case of wheel nuts it can actually overstress the studs as most people way over torque them anyway and with a lubricated thread it will be even worse. If you want to do it them only apply it to bolt shanks, if you then want to protect the protruding thread from corrosion then give it a quick coating with waxoil or similar once the nut is properly torqued up.

"Most torque loadings are specified for a dry threads so if you torque a nut to 100 lb/ft for example"

depends on the field i guess - cant see it making an ounce of difference on the land rover but can see the difference in the aviation field, in the oil field our torques are variable dependant on the lubricity coefficient of the doping compound used - or they stipulate the doping compound to be used.

but they are high chrome content tapered sealing threads torqued to 20/30 000 ft/lbs using a bucking unit - if you assembled them dry you would be looking at a world of galling pain.

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/Nylock_nut_torques.html

http://www.mechanicsupport.com/bolt_torque.html

i used to have a chart giving rough torque reduction %s for different lubes on the wall in an old workshop many moons ago - realistically though - how many of us actually use a torque wrench on our trucks ? i have them for working on engines but not for things like suspension - i probably should but i just use the old FT measurement (f**Kin tight) - they are big old agricultural nuts - not M5 machine screws like on bikes.

Me too use them together all the time no issues

Most things have thier (see wot I did) own rules, but, there is a reason for the difference in length between an 0BA and a 3"BSW spanner.

top drive said:

depends on the field i guess - cant see it making an ounce of difference on the land rover but can see the difference in the aviation field, in the oil field our torques are variable dependant on the lubricity coefficient of the doping compound used - or they stipulate the doping compound to be used.
.

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Couldn't agree more and like I said probably not much of an issue on a LR but it is a hard habit to break when it has been indoctrinated into you over 35 years!