P38A cooling issue

I found on my weasel! With the reservoir cap off squeezing the hose and blocking the little return pipe that comes into the reservoir by the cap with your finger when you let go of the pipe creates a small vacuum that helps towards purging the system. Put your heating on full heat at low speed to detect warm air and circulation through the pipes. Did you check the temp senders on the head? There is two with different thread sizes!!

Did the thermostat have a bleed hole in the outer edge and was it placed at the top, and diesel heads should not be skimmed, and has the rad got the baffle fitted in the top.

hi, thanks for replies, didnt know anything about baffle test as rad was ordered thru independant LR dealer I assume its correct, cant honestly remember about thermostat will have to have a look. some where I read the correct sender should have a blue plastic body does anybody have a part number for this, many thanks.Might sound daft but why cant you skim diesel heads.??

Because there is not enough metal left to remove safely.

http://m.mister-auto.co.uk/en/engin...ge-rover-mk-ii-lp-2-5-d-136hp_v4084_g830.html
Is this any good for the sender?? ;-)

biketeacherdave said:

It took me 2 goes to clear the heater matrix so when I finally install my LPG I'm going to take my hot water feed off of the throttle heater pipes, its been by passed in the distant past by a previous owner and will hopefully insure no future problems with air locks at the matrix, I do check my fluids weekly tho.

I'm as sure as I can be its gonna be the matrix a good way is to see if both hoses are hot one of mine was getting hot the other didn't when I pulled the hose off the metal pipe it was bone dry, flush flush flush

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I don't think there will be enough flow off of these pipes for the vapouriser... the throttle body heater pipes are 8mm from memory, whereas most LPG Vapourisers have 16mm water connections. That being said, as long as wherever you situate the vapouriser, as long as the feed/return pipes are lower than other parts of the system then your shouldn't end up with air locks. (and make sure the flow goes in a the bottom and out at the top... a mate's one is plumbed the opposite way - as the installer obviously figured that the plumbing was easier - but it makes it a PITA to bleed the air out of it!)

Doo said:

Did you set the internal heater to full heat when topping up? Sometimes if the valve is closed, there will be an airlock.
I suspect Wammers or Grrrr who have more dealings with the weasely diesely P38 will be more help.

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As far as I know (definitely on the petrol vehicles) there isn't a valve for the heater system - it is a full-flow system where coolant constantly circulates to the heater core, whether the temperature is turned up or not. The temperature blend is done by the blend motors/flaps in the heater box to vary the amount of fresh, cool air coming in between the vents and being sent through the heater matrix and warmed up, so the heater core should still bleed the air out of it - even if the HEVAC isn't set to full hot.

Thanks Marty duly noted regarding the LPG heater connections, its some thing iv seen on aus landrover site and makes sense not having to cut into my existing heater hoses. Iv got a couple of reducers sitting here in the garage. If I can get LPG locally, if my insurance company are happy and if I get the time and can bear drilling holes in my boot floor I think its a goer this spring. Got my works van to weld up 1st tho needs complete sill kit Ieft and right.

My coolant take off for the lpg vapouriser is from the heater hoses also and the unit is mounted a little lower though not much it has to be said. Maybe a certain volume of flow is required - 8 mm isn't much.

Fergie46 said:

My coolant take off for the lpg vapouriser is from the heater hoses also and the unit is mounted a little lower though not much it has to be said. Maybe a certain volume of flow is required - 8 mm isn't much.

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I don't think the amount of flow is important 16mm as apposed to 8mm all its doing is heating something up once the vaporiser is bled and full of water its gonna get hot either way and it does seem a popular method.

Certainly tidier than having two great hoses over the back of the engine bay.

Mark Piercy said:

Do you have any issues with the torque converter locking up only at high temperature?
I had a defective coolant sensor, the one towards the rear of the head under the inlet manifold, that settled my temp gauge and now the lock us achieved sooner and stays on regardless of the temp reading! I also replaced the water pump, thermostat and filler cap. Everything has settled right down.
I hope there is an answer there for you?

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If your car has three sensors on the head. Front one (brown one wire or blue two wire if aircon is fitted) behind injection pump is for dash gauge. Middle one (green) is ECU temp sender. Black one rear of head is for engine overheat protection which brings on aircon fans to assist cooling. Nothing to do with temp gauge other than temp indicated will drop when it is active with fans on.

Fergie46 said:

My coolant take off for the lpg vapouriser is from the heater hoses also and the unit is mounted a little lower though not much it has to be said. Maybe a certain volume of flow is required - 8 mm isn't much.

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From the 8mm heater hoses that go to the throttle body? They were the ones originally mentioned.. All LPG installs that I've seen are generally T'd into the heater hoses where they come off the flow/return to the heater matrix, which are generally 16 or 19mm to start with.

biketeacherdave said:

I don't think the amount of flow is important 16mm as apposed to 8mm all its doing is heating something up once the vaporiser is bled and full of water its gonna get hot either way and it does seem a popular method.

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There has to be some sort of decent flow to keep it hot - it's amazing how quick the vapouriser can ice up otherwise. I haven't seen one personally where the throttle body heater plate feed has been taken off to then feed a vapouriser - all of the installs I've seen (as mentioned just above ^) have had a 'T' in the pipes to the heater matrix, with either pipework across the back of the engine (if vapouriser is mounted on the LH side) or shorter pipes if it's mounted near the ABS pump.

You can try it off the 8mm throttle body heater pipework if you like, but I wouldn't have thought there would be enough flow to keep it hot when it's under load..

Hi, yep back again, checked radiator with hose pipe in side that comes from cyl head water flows outother side after it has filled rad , checked thermostat that was working but little pip wasnt at the top, refilled bleed as rave car now travels about 5mile before gauge goes to red, hoses are fairly hard but as cyl head was pressure tested and found to be ok hopefullyits not that, was wondering if it could be header tank cap. Reason is as I slowly crack cap I can then hear hissing and then it starts to overflow out of the overflow pipe , any ideas please. Work away from home hence the time delay in getting back with work done details.Cheers guys.

try viscous fan

Rad really needs checking upside down with a marble or take both hoses off and shine a small torch or better still a small lit light bulb and a little mirror in the other end to see the light'
Just putting a hose in it will just fill the rad till it comes out the other end baffle or not.

so this baffle, I assume its in top of the rad, will this really cause my problems, thanks for reply.

kevind said:

so this baffle, I assume its in top of the rad, will this really cause my problems, thanks for reply.

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You will note that on the diesel the coolant comes from the engine into the top left side of the rad. It should flow down that side then up the right hand side and back to the engine. If there is no baffle in the rad top coolant just flows straight across without going through the matrix. Sure sign of missing baffle is with engine warm rad top hot rad bottom cooler.

Hi, had time to look at car again, put small ball into rad and it wont roll all the way across rad so assume baffle is in place, stat is ok and hole is at top, pump is ok cant turn it if holding either end, so as every thing seems ok looks like its newspaper test, where is this aircon mod located Ive searched and cant find it anywhere, thanks.

The aircon mod not for masking a problem, but is to replace the viscous fan on a healthy car.

kevind said:

Hi, had time to look at car again, put small ball into rad and it wont roll all the way across rad so assume baffle is in place, stat is ok and hole is at top, pump is ok cant turn it if holding either end, so as every thing seems ok looks like its newspaper test, where is this aircon mod located Ive searched and cant find it anywhere, thanks.

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You need to sort out all issues first though.

Send a message to Datatek and he'll send you instructions if you ask nicely.