P38A cooling issue

HI, another update, changed fan car went further than earlier but still went into red so giving up with this head its coming off and another one is going on then start all over again , hey ho the love of a p38 who needs them.

Do keep us informed with progress and hope you get to the bottom of the problem.

Providing the system is filled and bled properly, the engine running normally until hot or even slightly longer then going to the red and blowing coolant out is classic of a cracked head. You will be able to tell almost straight away if you have a static test rig.

Hi Wammers not got anything like that or a leakdown kit so is head off and see if I can get some crack detection stuff from work to cheack head, has any body had any luck with welding heads and reusing them ??

kevind said:

Hi Wammers not got anything like that or a leakdown kit so is head off and see if I can get some crack detection stuff from work to cheack head, has any body had any luck with welding heads and reusing them ??

Click to expand...

From what you have said providing everything else was in order, it is a fair bet head is cracked. Changed one last year with an almost imperceptible crack along the edge of the round undercut between the valves on one cylinder. Engine ran well, would sit a normal on idle with rad cap off for over an hour then crack opened and all hell was let loose. A static test rig would tell you straight away. Cracking was caused by overheating under load whilst towing, due to failed viscous fan, which blew the rad cracked the head due to driver continuing off motorway. If these things overheat engine MUST be stopped immediately and problem investigated.

Thanks again Wammers, just out of curiosity has anybody ever had a block fail/crack on these diesel engines, I know clutching at straws but Im now at the stage of another head etc cost means I cant realistically sell this car and break even so I need to know as it looks like this is a keeper for a few yrs.thanks for all your advice

kevind said:

Thanks again Wammers, just out of curiosity has anybody ever had a block fail/crack on these diesel engines, I know clutching at straws but Im now at the stage of another head etc cost means I cant realistically sell this car and break even so I need to know as it looks like this is a keeper for a few yrs.thanks for all your advice

Click to expand...

Never heard of cracked block only heads.

Would a complete second hand lump be easier than swapping heads and you get a few spairs as well.

There is a video on the bay of a running engine still in the car. maybe worth a look

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Coolant-System-PressureLeak-Tester/?ALLSTEPS

I bought one of the "no name" versions on eBay for £46 which works really well on the LR, VW & Renault on my drive. Seems to be a Chinese copy of the Sealey VS006.

tarphenry said:

There is a video on the bay of a running engine still in the car. maybe worth a look

Click to expand...

Hi where is this video mate?

brianp38dse said:

Would a complete second hand lump be easier than swapping heads and you get a few spairs as well.

Click to expand...

Hi it probably would but its got a reconned block crank and pistons already,

Hi,the video was in p38 spares on e bay

Was just a thought ,but as you say you all ready have a good bottom end so heads the way to go mind for the price heads go for complete engine for head gives you a load other spairs as well .
and you could all ways sell the bottom end on to get some money back.

Hi,

Having cooling issues with V8 90, I think it is the radiator, keen to get some views on if the radiator is knackered!

See photos below.

Thanks

R

flibbered, finished! Time for new one buddy!!

Mark Piercy said:

flibbered, finished! Time for new one buddy!!

Click to expand...

Time to get a P38!

Mark Piercy said:

flibbered, finished! Time for new one buddy!!

Click to expand...

Thanks, it has lasted 30 years, so not too devastated ;-)