ant_harvey
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Coolant leaks
- Thread starter ant_harvey
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neilly
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Are you sure it is not the fuel cooler leaking? it is a known issue.
This guy did a great write up .
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fuelcooler.html
Cheers
This guy did a great write up .
http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fuelcooler.html
Cheers
neilly
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Shirley, the water pump on the TD5 is on the opposite side of the engine to the injectors.
Cheers
ant_harvey
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Sounds exactly right - I need to get a replacement seal by the sounds of things. Thanks
ant_harvey
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Thanks - it's not the pump. Ive just replaced it and it's on the other side of the engine.
Bobdog
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if those drops of water in the pic are 'coolant' then you need to get some actual coolant in there.
ant_harvey
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It's on a 50% mix but it's a light yellow colour- according to the label it can mix with any coolant and suitable for all vehicles.
Bobdog
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hmm... well i prefer to use the recommended OAT coolant. bright pink/orange. it has the advantage that its easier to see where your leaks are
ant_harvey
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When Ive sorted out the leaks I will invest in the proper stuff - the rate Ive been getting through it wouldn't make sense. I think this might be the last coolant leak now, next stop is gearbox (the engine doesn't leak at all!), then sunroofs before winter sets in.
ant_harvey
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Has anyone else struggled with getting the end back in the cooler once the new O ring is on? I really can't get the bleeper back in. Any advice would be helpful, tried a bit of lube.
jamesmartin
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i presume you mean glow plugs,injectors are inside the rocker cover
jamesmartin
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id have bought another cooler, but you need lube and either very careful with a rubber mallet or a squeeze in a vice
ant_harvey
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I took the pipe off and used a socket over the end, a bit of baton and tapped it with a hammer.
ant_harvey
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A second hand one might have had the same issues, they seem to go for about £20. A new one is more than I can afford. The o rings were less than a fiver and took me under an hour - tested and working fine. As mentioned a more accomplished home mechanic could do it in half that time. No need to remove the cooler but I did find it easier removing the small diameter pipe going to the header tank, for anyone else thinking about doing this.
ozzyboydeano
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typo
ozzyboydeano
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you might find the injectors are actually inside the rocker cover
neilly
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Yes, they are, as I changed the washers last week I am aware of this,
But as that is what the OP was using to orientate the side of the engine and where the cooler is, I used it a as reference point. Plus, the water pump is not on the same side as the fuel cooler.
Which seems to have worked for him.
But I expect you have a gauge/dial somewhere which shows you in the cab ....LOL. I take you read James post and thought you would respond , calm down Kiwi.............
Cheers
But as that is what the OP was using to orientate the side of the engine and where the cooler is, I used it a as reference point. Plus, the water pump is not on the same side as the fuel cooler.
Which seems to have worked for him.
But I expect you have a gauge/dial somewhere which shows you in the cab ....LOL. I take you read James post and thought you would respond , calm down Kiwi.............
Cheers
Bobdog
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slightly changing the subject, i'm going to have to change my rad sooner than i intended. whilst checking my air filter, i knocked the little return pipe from the rad to the header tank which snapped in 2 places as its become brittle. i did a temporary fix but also, half of the spigot which the pipe attaches to, broke off! also brittle. anyway, whilst screwing the fan shroud back on, coolant came out of the screw hole! rad seems to be disintegrating! a bit of ptfe tape around the screw thread has held it for now but what i need to know is, is there a better hose/pipe to use for the return pipe instead of the hard plastic brittle stuff they used originally? i'm thinking some sort of fuel pipe or rubber hose but what bore is best size?
