Control rod, bell crank to carb

Running a 2 1/4 petrol on a zenith carb and K & N filter. Can any one tell me what length the control rod should be that connects the bell crank to the carb, measured from the ends of the ball joints. Or how to adjust this correctly!
Have some running issues and would like to eliminate this, briefly when I'm abit heavy footed on the accelarator the engine loses power.

Metalmental said:

Have some running issues and would like to eliminate this, briefly when I'm abit heavy footed on the accelarator the engine loses power.

Click to expand...

Do you mean when you go from part throttle to full throttle?

This could be a problem with the advance bellows in the distributor or the accelerator pump in the carb.

...And check you plugs for condition and correct gap.

I had similar issues.

Only cured after refurbung the carb. Stripping down, cleaning and rebuilding with service kit, although my carb was a Weber. Make sure connecting rods/spring/cable are clean and not sticking. Re-tune carb

Cheers,
Steve.

Have had two new carbs on with the same problem, will check plugs/gap though.
Yes it is when I go from part to full throttle, its like there is no top pulling power, as for the bellows in the dizzie, how can I check this? and can anyone answer my orginal query regarding the connector rod

If throttle flap in carb is fully closed when pedal is resting and fully open when pedal is fully down then there is no adjustment required on the linkage. Rod length/linkage should only need adjusting is this is not the case.

to check the dizzy advance just take of the cap conect a piece of pipe to the bellows and suck you should see the internals of the dizzy turn slightlly if they dont move atall then the vacum unit is buggerd

This may sound a little stupid but have you changed the points and condenser unit? I had a similar problem when I was getting my landy back on her feet. Changed the carb, fuel pump, set and reset the timing and in the end I changed the condenser and she went like a wee bird. For the sake of £3-4 it's worth a try.

I've been there too deed, when I was young and daft, refused to accept the new condenser I put on mi ratsun was kanacked, and changed the carbs, coil and plugs before I ended up realising it was a duffer newun.

Thanks for the help, greatly appreciated
So far
1.connection rod did need adjusting as it was too long, therfor not opening the throttle to it s full limit,
2. There's no condensor or points , this has been replace with a electronic gizmo supplied from Brookwells.

Next
will check bellows on dizzy(can this part be replaced if its caput rather than replacing complete dizzy?) and change the plugs including check gap.

regards

If you have a timing strobe, you can check advance while the engine runs, you should see the ignition advance while you rev the engine.

Bellows on the dizzy seems to be fine and the plugs were replaced. One out of the four was abit darker than the others which were grey in colour, a couple of bent connectors were also found. Ran a compression test and there was only 5psi variation, alittle low though at about 112psi. Have yet to go out on a run to see if there is any improvement, but will reset the valves as another measure.
Any more advise greatly appreciated.