Code P6050

Hey everybody! I have restored a 1996 RR p38 4.6 Hse automatic, not used for 10 years. Fixed "roof to floor" .OBD tester gives fault code: P0605, fit and fault memory memory corrupted (drive cycle A) Can anyone tell me what to do? The car works, the idle is a bit uneven. B.R.erkki

I don't know what that means but maybe completing drive cycle A may fix it, worth a try and it's very easy

1Switch on the ignition for 30 seconds .
2 Ensure engine coolant temperature is less than 60°C (140°F) .
3 Start the engine and allow to idle for 2 minutes .
4Connect TestBook and check for fault codes.

You probably don't have a testbook but nanocom will be fine

Thank you for the quick reply! Ok, I'll try it. I don't have a Nanocom myself, but my friend does. He's traveling now, but when he gets back we'll test it. I will tell you the result in time. I would be interested in buying a Nanocom, a used one would do... B.R. Erkki

while you're at it.. is the battery good? check connections for corrosion etc, check earth connections

I have soldered with tin all the + and - terminals of the engine compartment and the connections on the inside of the relay box, as well as the relays. The battery is good, as is the charging.
I have also removed the group connectors in the corners of the front part at the floor border on both sides. Behm external and internal terminals are tinned and secured all the way to the printed circuit. The ECM connections look good, but I'm still checking its + and - terminals with voltage drop measurements. I master wire technology, but there is learning in semiconductor technology.

mikkre said:

I have soldered with tin all the + and - terminals of the engine compartment and the connections on the inside of the relay box, as well as the relays. The battery is good, as is the charging.
I have also removed the group connectors in the corners of the front part at the floor border on both sides. Behm external and internal terminals are tinned and secured all the way to the printed circuit. The ECM connections look good, but I'm still checking its + and - terminals with voltage drop measurements. I master wire technology, but there is learning in semiconductor technology.

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When you say the battery voltage is good, what voltage do you have when it has stood for 24 hours?

24hours I don't know, but the car has been parked for 3 weeks now, once I moved it 5 meters away from another road. The battery is 95Ah, the voltage is now exactly 12v, when I opened the doors, the alarm has been on the whole time. Meter Fluke 365. If I looked correctly, connector C509, pins 7 and 8 would be + 12V and pins 5, 9, 10 and 16 would be - connectors. I know that you shouldn't connect the meter to all the pins, let alone the indicator lamp..

12.0v is pretty much dead flat. You need to charge it up for at least 12 hours and then see if still holds a charge. 12.7v is full but 12.5 is just about serviceable

kermit_rr said:

12.0v is pretty much dead flat. You need to charge it up for at least 12 hours and then see if still holds a charge. 12.7v is full but 12.5 is just about serviceable

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Sorry, 12.8 is fully charged, it should hold at no lower than 12.6 volts from fully charged after 24 hours. Weak batteries are a constant source of problems on these cars.

Is it now the case that 12 volts is the cause of that fault code I mentioned above, P0605?
However, when running, the voltage is 14.1-2v
The battery is only 1/2 year old...I charge the battery, wait 24 hours, measure again and return to the channel! thanks for this info!!

mikkre said:

Is it now the case that 12 volts is the cause of that fault code I mentioned above, P0605?
However, when running, the voltage is 14.1-2v
The battery is only 1/2 year old...I charge the battery, wait 24 hours, measure again and return to the channel! thanks for this info!!

Click to expand...

Low battery volts often cause spurious fault conditions. 14.1-2 volts is about the minimum for a lead calcium battery A battery that has been allowed to go flat as yours has can fail very quickly.
It would be worth checking the earth strap from the engine to the chassis, they are known to fail.

It's not just the voltage you read when the battery is sat doing nothing, but how low it drops under load, eg while cranking. If it drops too low then modules around the car don't have enough volts to run properly and can cause errors

As I already stated above, the grounding matters are in good condition in the engine room. The battery grounding cable has been renewed and the cable between the engine frame is made of two 30mm2 cables, the shoes of which are soldered with tin and are connected with a bolt directly to the end of the battery's flat plate cable and the frame. The starter motor is new, 1.2 hp. Together with the 95 Ah battery, the engine spins happily when starting and starts immediately. I've done the same tinning to all the grounded cables I've seen, as well as thicker + cables everywhere in the car.
Now, when the weather warms up a bit (+1) I will familiarize myself with the thinner grounding and + wires in the ECM connectors.

mikkre said:

Is it now the case that 12 volts is the cause of that fault code I mentioned above, P0605?
However, when running, the voltage is 14.1-2v
The battery is only 1/2 year old...I charge the battery, wait 24 hours, measure again and return to the channel! thanks for this info!!

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Charging sounds fine but what model of RF receiver do you have? Interference can flatten a battery in no time. Loads of threads on it.

Now I don't understand the acronym, Do you mean radio? It's Bl Acapulco.

mikkre said:

Now I don't understand the acronym, Do you mean radio? It's Bl Acapulco.

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The receiver for the key FOB, not the car radio.

The remote door lock is not in use, the battery connection ring from the key is broken. The doors can only be locked by turning the key. This is something from the previous owner, I haven't processed it yet. The alarm goes on, but there no siren.

Now that I think about the time when I bought this car that had not been used for 10 years, the seller tried to start it with very bad batteries, the starter turned lazily, but it started then. There were no indicator lights on the instrument panel, and the compressor did not work. The error code I mentioned is probably a blatant misuse of those batteries by the previous owner. The car had several electrical faults, starting with the charger. I have restored them to operation one at a time. The cruise control still needs to be repaired and all the windshield washer pumps are broken. Am I crazy??

mikkre said:

Now that I think about the time when I bought this car that had not been used for 10 years, the seller tried to start it with very bad batteries, the starter turned lazily, but it started then. There were no indicator lights on the instrument panel, and the compressor did not work. The error code I mentioned is probably a blatant misuse of those batteries by the previous owner. The car had several electrical faults, starting with the charger. I have restored them to operation one at a time. The cruise control still needs to be repaired and all the windshield washer pumps are broken. Am I crazy??

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Washer pumps may just be seized so repairable. When you open with the key, do you have to enter the EKA code?
You need to clear all error codes and see what comes back.

I don't know the EKA code, and neither does the previous owner. Is there any way to find out?