Clutch slave cylinder shattered!

Clutch slave cylinder shattered!

It never rains does it then just like that monsoon!

Driving home from work a small matter of about 25miles, mostly country lanes!
I go to change to 3rd pedal goes to floor and stays there, I'm stuck in 2nd!
I had in my mind the pedal had un hooked itslef from master cylinder pull rod or the pedal spring had broken.

Nope both were fine, so popped the hood!

The plastic 'top/cap' of the slave cylinder had shattered....

I'm reading to replace the setup is well ... plug and play!

Disconnect the old setup, connect the new setup!

No bleeding no calibration...just a 'C' clip and a few nuts and bolts!

Really?
Is that it just connect the new bits and your done?

last summer hapened to me, 20 km in second gear at 2am to get home,
it is a "plug and play" repair. Just make sure the metal plate that holds the slave to the gearbox is ok, mine was a bit twisted.

make sure the clutch actuating arm isn't seizing up where it passes thro bellhousing or you will be doing more damage, 25mins to fit new system, comes pre filled, bled etc.

Thanks fo the confirmation baptista and follow up freelance!

5 bolts (2 being the airbox, so much easier with that removed) 3 clips ... sorted.

The slave had clearly shattered, what was interesting was to see what was left of the bracket!

Not much at all!

£47 later (new Clutch system (STC000180) + bracket (UUU100690)) one very smooth happy Freeby again!

How much movement is there on this arm when the cylinder is removed? My slave cyl broke up so I fitted a new slave and master kit (LUK) and it only lasted two days before it broke up again! The clutch works ok but the lever cannot be moved by hand. Just wondered if the shaft has seized. The other thing is the bracket seems to move slightly when the pedal was pressed but if the shaft had seized, I can understand why. Thanks in advance, George.

They are easy to replace first do your plate change, then the master cylinder is next undo the clip on the clutch pedle then twist the cylinder to the right and pull out. Then thred the slave and pipe through and make sure it goes behind the steering arm and then when you put the slave on there should be a retainer on the rod coming out of the slave cylinder do not take this off until you nearly have it on, or the rod will push out on its own and you will have to buy another one hope this helps

I thought the slave cylinder was inside the bell housing and it is the reservoir on the bulk head. Is that not right?

Take a look at this thread

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/freelander-clutch-bracket-cylinder-help-113503.html

muddiford said:

How much movement is there on this arm when the cylinder is removed? My slave cyl broke up so I fitted a new slave and master kit (LUK) and it only lasted two days before it broke up again! The clutch works ok but the lever cannot be moved by hand. Just wondered if the shaft has seized. The other thing is the bracket seems to move slightly when the pedal was pressed but if the shaft had seized, I can understand why. Thanks in advance, George.

Click to expand...

You are describing a classic Pg1 seized operating lever fault!! The lever that the slave pushes on is connected to a shaft that goes though the gearbox outer case and pushes on the clutch release bearing with a forked lever. There are 2 bushes that this shaft rotates in but unfortunately the lubes uses in manufacture don't last as long as the clutch. Or if the car has had a clutch the fitter didn't lube the shaft correctly which will seize solid. This puts a massive strain on the hydraulics and the brackets causing them to fail. The best cure is to strip the box out remove the release fork and remove the seized shaft so it can have both top and bottom bearings cleaned and lubricated with a Moly based grease!! If the box is'nt going to be removed then it is possible to free the shaft with a thin oil placed where the shaft enters the gearbox and moving the leave as many times as necessary to free it off. Once free a couple of drops of engine oil applied every couple of months will keep it free!!

springer1 said:

I thought the slave cylinder was inside the bell housing and it is the reservoir on the bulk head. Is that not right?

Click to expand...

Not on the Pg1 box fitted to the 1.8

it all has to do with the bracket disintergrating they tend to split first then just let go

Thanks, Nodge 68 for your answer, its good to get new information.

Hhhmmm! Got the same thing , but stupidly released the slave rod, is there no way to recompression?, I bought £150 version, cheers Trevor

I take it the push rod has come out to far and dropped the hydraulic fluid? I don't think there's any way back from that - but others may know better.

At that price, I presume its a genuine LR part. They do a great warranty on their parts, I know this isn't really a warranty type thing - but you may get lucky with a replacement from them - say the plastic clips just broke as you installed it!

If no fluid came out just push the rod back in and carry on. I messed around with a master/slave for ages while working at it without clamping the slave and had no problems. At one stage I pushed the clutch a wee bit without it being in position and the rod popped out but was lucky not to loose fluid.

Hi guys! I've have similar problem with my slave hydraulic cylinder, when I pres clutch pedal to change gear and pedal drop down and stay there. When I open the hood I've discovered that cylinder was pop up from his place and was fell apart. After I take down cylinder and the bracket I was really disappointed of how poorly was setup so to prevent happening again I make some modification to the bracket so that cylinder will be more securely fixed on the bracket. I'll post some photos so if someone want to do it to know how exactly I've done it.

Nice job. I used three or four cable ties to try and hold it all together, the original design is truly appalling.
Make sure your shaft is lubricated as a sticky shaft can break your master/slave cylinder.

Alibro said:

Nice job. I used three or four cable ties to try and hold it all together, the original design is truly appalling.
Make sure your shaft is lubricated as a sticky shaft can break your master/slave cylinder.

Click to expand...

Thanks mate! Any advice for proper lube for the shaft?

Mmmmm, Errrrr, I guess when it comes to lubing yer shaft yer favourite lube of choice would be fine.

Maybe a wee squirt of Plus Gas or WD40. Some folk swear by giving it a lubing every time you open the bonnet as they seize up after a few years.

That's a good mod! You certainly know how to weld - it's all very neat.