Vince.VS
New Member
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- 5
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- Farnborough, Hamphsire
Clutch slave cylinder shattered!
- Thread starter Hawkmoon
- Start date
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Nodge68
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Mmmmm, Errrrr, I guess when it comes to lubing yer shaft yer favourite lube of choice would be fine.
Maybe a wee squirt of Plus Gas or WD40. Some folk swear by giving it a lubing every time you open the bonnet as they seize up after a few years.
I'd lube the release shaft every oil change with a couple of drops of engine oil. This will keep the shaft from sticking.
Vince.VS
New Member
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- 5
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- Farnborough, Hamphsire
Thanks mate
Vince.VS
New Member
- Posts
- 5
- Location
- Farnborough, Hamphsire
Hi guys, since I changed my master and slave cylinder everything works perfectly fine till last week when temperature was really high I have hard time shifting the gears. In the beginning I thought it's something wrong with the clutch but is turn out is the slave cylinder again but this time problem was the heat. Because cylinder is exactly behind the fan for radiator, cylinder get too hot and i gues fluid in it becomes too thin and can't make enough pressure to pressing the clutch. So I made simple heat shield and clutch start working perfectly fine again. If someone have similar problem can try this mod. Cheers
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GrumpyGel
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- 25,213
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- Christchurch, New Zealand
Went for a round of golf yesterday, about a 20 mile round trip ('99 L Series). Noticed that the gear changes had got difficult. I asked Mrs Grumpy if she'd noticed if gear changing had changed at all and she said no. Didn't have time to investigate and busy today. Mrs Grumpy took dog up the park, so I asked her to see if she thought gears were any different. Anyway, gets a call a while later to say she's broken down in the park car park - clutch peddle has gone to the floor and won't come back up!
Got the car towed home, took the air filter off and the slave cylinder has come away from the bracket. The shoulder on the cylinder has basically disintegrated - obviously with a bit of help. Haven't checked the bracket yet - more concerned with the release arm. I've never had any problems with it, but must admit, I haven't lubed it the last couple of services.
It does not appear to be seized. I can move it freely - but only a small amount, maybe 5 to 10mm - either side of this it is 'solid' by touch (ie no leverage) - does this sound normal?
Depending on feedback, I'll try and put some leverage on it tomorrow to make sure it does move.
My parts car (2001 K Series) had a brand new bracket and hydraulics on it when I got it - so hoping, I can take those over.
Got the car towed home, took the air filter off and the slave cylinder has come away from the bracket. The shoulder on the cylinder has basically disintegrated - obviously with a bit of help. Haven't checked the bracket yet - more concerned with the release arm. I've never had any problems with it, but must admit, I haven't lubed it the last couple of services.
It does not appear to be seized. I can move it freely - but only a small amount, maybe 5 to 10mm - either side of this it is 'solid' by touch (ie no leverage) - does this sound normal?
Depending on feedback, I'll try and put some leverage on it tomorrow to make sure it does move.
My parts car (2001 K Series) had a brand new bracket and hydraulics on it when I got it - so hoping, I can take those over.
freelance
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- essex and beyond
Sounds normal, movement one way, mechanical stop, the other way meets clutch pressure plate
Nodge68
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- Near Newquay
Everything will swap over, but make sure you lubricate the lever shaft, where it enters the bell housing.
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I did the hydraulics & bracket replacement on a friends car back in 2019, but found one issue. Even though it was pre-bled, there seemed to be some air in the system. The solution was to hang the hydraulic unit in the garage for 24 hours, with the reservoir at the top to allow any air to migrate to the top. Then after fitting the clutch worked much better.
I know this shouldn't be necessary, but my guess is the pre-bleed is never 100% perfect.
I know this shouldn't be necessary, but my guess is the pre-bleed is never 100% perfect.
Nodge68
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That's the only way I've found to bleed these one piece systems. I've found that pushing the slave piston in fully and repeatedly helps push any air towards the master, speeding up the process.
GrumpyGel
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- 25,213
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- Christchurch, New Zealand
Well, I've been doing the clutch hydraulics today. I found out yesterday that the slave shoulder had disintegrated, after getting the bracket off today, I found that the bottom lug that holds the slave in place had broken off. So the system was pretty shagged.
The concept of the self contained 1 piece hydraulics is great - it is though a bit of a PITA. Especially, when reusing 2nd hand stuff
I got the "new" hydraulics off the K Series parts car pretty easily. Getting the master rod off the clutch peddle on the L Series was a real pain. The heating duct must be a few mm closer to the holding pin, because it did not want to come off - in the end "sufficient force" was required which broke the retraining clip - thankfully the K one came off OK. Routing the pipework is a "joy" - not. It may be flexible, but only so much and not wanting to kink or break off the cylinders - is another pain. Then you have it all almost in place and realise the bending in the pipe to take in down under the steering arm/rack is upside down and instead heading for the bonnet! The L Series seams to have a lot more pipes and cables in the way and the hose from the intercooler to turbo obscures the slave/release arm area. What clever sod routed the reverse switch wiring through the slave bracket holes? Nice of them to put connectors there to split the wires, but after 20 years, 1 of them didn't want to budge - more "sufficient force" required.
Anyway, all in place, bracket bolted in place, wiring routed through it, slave clipped in securely - then to push the slave rod back in enough to slot into the release arm - lots of "sufficient force" on finger tips (because there's 2 pipes in the way) is right painful - but in it went. Only the master to secure in place and clip onto peddle. However, would the master clip onto the bulkhead? No. What was expected to be easy became a nightmare and I really do not know why. I tried loads and loads of times without success - so stopped for dinner. After dinner I gave my mate a call who's a big unit and capable of more "sufficient force". He came round and between the 2 of us we still couldn't get it installed. Tried the old one - went in first time. Back to the new one, no way. One last go, and it went in easy as - WTF - frigging cars, friggin Land Rovers.
Just needed to clip the rod onto the peddle, it put up a strong fight, but I was in no mood to pussy foot around and it went on pretty quickly.
Then to test drive. I wasn't actually holding out much hope - the hydraulics had been hanging around for 5 years disconnected from the release arm, so rod fully extended, the rod almost fell out completely a few times routing it, it took some effort to get in back in enough hook it up to the release arm on install, I lost count how many times the master had been upside down and pushed side to side with "sufficient force".
However - it worked a treat All fixed (hopefully)
Broken bracket...
The concept of the self contained 1 piece hydraulics is great - it is though a bit of a PITA. Especially, when reusing 2nd hand stuff
I got the "new" hydraulics off the K Series parts car pretty easily. Getting the master rod off the clutch peddle on the L Series was a real pain. The heating duct must be a few mm closer to the holding pin, because it did not want to come off - in the end "sufficient force" was required which broke the retraining clip - thankfully the K one came off OK. Routing the pipework is a "joy" - not. It may be flexible, but only so much and not wanting to kink or break off the cylinders - is another pain. Then you have it all almost in place and realise the bending in the pipe to take in down under the steering arm/rack is upside down and instead heading for the bonnet! The L Series seams to have a lot more pipes and cables in the way and the hose from the intercooler to turbo obscures the slave/release arm area. What clever sod routed the reverse switch wiring through the slave bracket holes? Nice of them to put connectors there to split the wires, but after 20 years, 1 of them didn't want to budge - more "sufficient force" required.
Anyway, all in place, bracket bolted in place, wiring routed through it, slave clipped in securely - then to push the slave rod back in enough to slot into the release arm - lots of "sufficient force" on finger tips (because there's 2 pipes in the way) is right painful - but in it went. Only the master to secure in place and clip onto peddle. However, would the master clip onto the bulkhead? No. What was expected to be easy became a nightmare and I really do not know why. I tried loads and loads of times without success - so stopped for dinner. After dinner I gave my mate a call who's a big unit and capable of more "sufficient force". He came round and between the 2 of us we still couldn't get it installed. Tried the old one - went in first time. Back to the new one, no way. One last go, and it went in easy as - WTF - frigging cars, friggin Land Rovers.
Just needed to clip the rod onto the peddle, it put up a strong fight, but I was in no mood to pussy foot around and it went on pretty quickly.
Then to test drive. I wasn't actually holding out much hope - the hydraulics had been hanging around for 5 years disconnected from the release arm, so rod fully extended, the rod almost fell out completely a few times routing it, it took some effort to get in back in enough hook it up to the release arm on install, I lost count how many times the master had been upside down and pushed side to side with "sufficient force".
However - it worked a treat
All fixed (hopefully)Broken bracket...
GrumpyGel
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- Christchurch, New Zealand
Went to bed last night and I'm lying there and suddenly realise I didn't tighten the 3 bracket bolts! I had just done them up finger tight.
So today, the slave came off again so I could tighten the bolts up.
Twit.
So today, the slave came off again so I could tighten the bolts up.
Twit.
Alibro
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It's been a couple of years since I messed about with the K series clutch hydraulics but I remember spending an hour or more trying to figure out how to refit the master to the bulkhead. In the end it just went in like yours did and I was equally baffled as to what the issue had been and how I had resolved it.Well, I've been doing the clutch hydraulics today. I found out yesterday that the slave shoulder had disintegrated, after getting the bracket off today, I found that the bottom lug that holds the slave in place had broken off. So the system was pretty shagged.
The concept of the self contained 1 piece hydraulics is great - it is though a bit of a PITA. Especially, when reusing 2nd hand stuff
I got the "new" hydraulics off the K Series parts car pretty easily. Getting the master rod off the clutch peddle on the L Series was a real pain. The heating duct must be a few mm closer to the holding pin, because it did not want to come off - in the end "sufficient force" was required which broke the retraining clip - thankfully the K one came off OK. Routing the pipework is a "joy" - not. It may be flexible, but only so much and not wanting to kink or break off the cylinders - is another pain. Then you have it all almost in place and realise the bending in the pipe to take in down under the steering arm/rack is upside down and instead heading for the bonnet! The L Series seams to have a lot more pipes and cables in the way and the hose from the intercooler to turbo obscures the slave/release arm area. What clever sod routed the reverse switch wiring through the slave bracket holes? Nice of them to put connectors there to split the wires, but after 20 years, 1 of them didn't want to budge - more "sufficient force" required.
Anyway, all in place, bracket bolted in place, wiring routed through it, slave clipped in securely - then to push the slave rod back in enough to slot into the release arm - lots of "sufficient force" on finger tips (because there's 2 pipes in the way) is right painful - but in it went. Only the master to secure in place and clip onto peddle. However, would the master clip onto the bulkhead? No. What was expected to be easy became a nightmare and I really do not know why. I tried loads and loads of times without success - so stopped for dinner. After dinner I gave my mate a call who's a big unit and capable of more "sufficient force". He came round and between the 2 of us we still couldn't get it installed. Tried the old one - went in first time. Back to the new one, no way. One last go, and it went in easy as - WTF - frigging cars, friggin Land Rovers.
Just needed to clip the rod onto the peddle, it put up a strong fight, but I was in no mood to pussy foot around and it went on pretty quickly.
Then to test drive. I wasn't actually holding out much hope - the hydraulics had been hanging around for 5 years disconnected from the release arm, so rod fully extended, the rod almost fell out completely a few times routing it, it took some effort to get in back in enough hook it up to the release arm on install, I lost count how many times the master had been upside down and pushed side to side with "sufficient force".
However - it worked a treat
Broken bracket...
View attachment 227607
Plonker.
GrumpyGel
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 25,213
- Location
- Christchurch, New Zealand
It's been a couple of years since I messed about with the K series clutch hydraulics but I remember spending an hour or more trying to figure out how to refit the master to the bulkhead. In the end it just went in like yours did and I was equally baffled as to what the issue had been and how I had resolved it.
Plonker.
