Clutch Problem

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Harman1969

New Member
Posts
18
Location
Aylesbury, Bucks
Hi, I'm hoping for some advice on a problem I have with my 1980 SIII 2.6, 6 pot Clutch.

I havent driven it for several weeks, but when I did it worked fine, with no symptoms or problems.

I have just gone to drive it now, and the clutch pedal has very little resisitance, and when the engine is running, with clutch pedal fully depressed, I cant select a gear (all gears crunch as if clutch pedal not depressed at all / my wife is driving it). Ive checked and there are no obvious leaks and all fluid levels are topped up.

Any suggestions on where I should start would be gratefully received!

Jon
 
try bleeding it sounds like master cylinder has scores and now has air in it
 
As above, first thing to do is bleed the system. If that sorts it just for a while with no visible leak then suspect an internal leak.. ie knackered slave or master cylinder.
 
Thanks fanatic and discobill. Would I be right in thinking you bleed the clutch at the master cylinder through the access hole in the RHS of the transmission tunnel? The clutch and the master cylinder seem quite cheap items, so if I have to change them both its not so expensive, but is it wasy to do? I imagine access to be tricky?
 
Harman1969 said:
Thanks fanatic and discobill. Would I be right in thinking you bleed the clutch at the master cylinder through the access hole in the RHS of the transmission tunnel? The clutch and the master cylinder seem quite cheap items, so if I have to change them both its not so expensive, but is it wasy to do? I imagine access to be tricky?
Click to expand...

Master cylinder on bulkhead above clutch pedal end and slave cylinder on gearbox underneath

Fill the clutch master cylinder up with brake fluid and bleed by undoing bleed nipple on slave cylinder anti clockwise,
I use a large gauge silicone rubber tube from model shop as it doesn't get attacked by brake fluid.
but you can get bleed kits cheap locally (rinse pipe after use or it goes white)

Only just crack the nipple open and bleed by pumping the pedal till no air comes out.(remember to keep clutch master cylinder topped up while bleeding)
 
Hi, The bleed tube only arrived yesterday, but I'm still having some problems. I read somewhere that you bleed the the clutch from the slave cylinder, which you access from inside the cab through an access hole in the transmission tunnel. I can't find the access hole, but having had a good look around underneath, Ive found what looks like the a slave cylinder quite accessible, and mounted low down on the passenger side, near the starter. Not sure if this is a 6 cylinder anomoly? Also, bleed tube has very narrow bore and won't go ove the nipple Grrrr.

If somebody can confirm that I have indeed found the slave cylinder that would be good, I'll then try and get some bleed tube with a bigger bore so I can get on with the job. Many thanks.

Jon
 
Harman1969 said:
all gears crunch as if clutch pedal not depressed at all / my wife is driving it
Click to expand...

:D good ein!!


the series 2's had an access hole and slave cylinder on the driver’s side. i think all the series 3's are set up like yours, like you say with the slave cylinder low down on the passenger side.

have you got the bleed nipple open yet? that's probably your next "challenge"

heating the bleed tube in hot water might make it more persuasive if its just a midgie's baw too small.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Doobie, I've done it! The internal diametre of the bleed tube was far too small, so having looked around for something more suitable I came across a gallon of Round Up weed killer with just the right sized tube. Bleed nipple opened fine, and a few minutes later I had pedal pressure!

Thanks for all your help everyone, sounds like I was making a mountian out of a mole hill now!!

Cheers

Jon
 
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