Clutch Pedal Adjustment....

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natas

natas

Well-Known Member
Posts
1,434
Location
Bahamas
My clutch master cylinder was leaking so I ordered a new master and slave cylinder and had the local bush mechanic instal them.

I have the truck back and its working fine however, I am not happy with how the pedal is adjusted.

the pedal is almost 3/4 of the way to the floor before the clutch is engaged and I have to sink the pedal to the floor to get it to disengage.

When I am in first gear and pulling off, I only have to lift my foot a tiny bit off the clutch thats on the floor for the clutch to engage.:doh:

How do I adjust it?

Thanks.
 
natas said:
My clutch master cylinder was leaking so I ordered a new master and slave cylinder and had the local bush mechanic instal them.

I have the truck back and its working fine however, I am not happy with how the pedal is adjusted.

the pedal is almost 3/4 of the way to the floor before the clutch is engaged and I have to sink the pedal to the floor to get it to disengage.

When I am in first gear and pulling off, I only have to lift my foot a tiny bit off the clutch thats on the floor for the clutch to engage.:doh:

How do I adjust it?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Did the 'bush mechanic' bleed the system properly after installing the cylinders?
 
Now that I think about it, it really does not matter.
The fact that the clutch engages so close to the floor is a sign that the clutch is almost done.
So now I guess I will start to think about installing a new clutch.

Question, does the engine have to come out to install a new clutch?

Thanks;.
 
natas said:
Now that I think about it, it really does not matter.
The fact that the clutch engages so close to the floor is a sign that the clutch is almost done.
So now I guess I will start to think about installing a new clutch.

Question, does the engine have to come out to install a new clutch?

Thanks;.
Click to expand...

Yer arse backwards. A high biting point means a worn clutch. A low biting point is an indicator of a new clutch..........or dodgy hydraulics.;)
 
:doh::eek::mad:

My Clutch master cylinder is leaking AGAIN, its brand new!!!! WTF?????
Could something be causing it to get broken? or are they just really ****ty made?

Im going to order 4 new ones.

What is the best brand?
 
Was completely brand new and lasted for 2 1/2 months!!!!
I just ordered 2 more, 1 for spare. I asked them to please find something better...................
 
ratty said:
Yer arse backwards. A high biting point means a worn clutch. A low biting point is an indicator of a new clutch..........or dodgy hydraulics.;)
Click to expand...

i recently decided to get my new g/box in sooner rather than later because it felt like my clutch was on the way out by only biting very high up on the pedal travel ... now everything is back together with a new clutch and fully adjusted up according to haynes, the clutch still engages at the end of travel of the pedal.

i then only assumed it was meant to be like that?
 
you can adjust the clutch travel if you look in busters thread on how to install clutch master cylinder. Its probably leaking from over extending
 
Same thing was happening to us. Get genuine cylinders, when putting the push rod in leave the nuts loose.

Then adjust the pedal from inside by using the lock nut at the back of the box, until the bottom of the pedal is 140mm from the floor. When that done you can tighten up the lock nuts on the push rod, leaving a slight play in the rod..

It's in the manual but not very clear. Other thing I found was to take an old ring spanner & cut a slot out of the end it makes the adjustment easier.
 
transporter44 said:
Same thing was happening to us. Get genuine cylinders, when putting the push rod in leave the nuts loose.

Then adjust the pedal from inside by using the lock nut at the back of the box, until the bottom of the pedal is 140mm from the floor. When that done you can tighten up the lock nuts on the push rod, leaving a slight play in the rod..

It's in the manual but not very clear. Other thing I found was to take an old ring spanner & cut a slot out of the end it makes the adjustment easier.
Click to expand...

Excellent! many thanks guys!
 
Hi, Have Just got a TD5 reg 55, after our TDi was stolen at xmas, Anyway what I need to know is, do all defender's have a heavy clutch as I would love to have a soft clutch as my leg after a while gets sore, when you are in traffic alot. Either that or change it to auto?.
 
Andrew 110 said:
Hi, Have Just got a TD5 reg 55, after our TDi was stolen at xmas, Anyway what I need to know is, do all defender's have a heavy clutch as I would love to have a soft clutch as my leg after a while gets sore, when you are in traffic alot. Either that or change it to auto?.
Click to expand...

i have the same problem http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/how-soften-td5-clutch-153175.html
ive just been offered this for £550 installed:eek: but it seems very good http://www.td5alive.com/new_products.php
 
Last edited:
Delfi cylinders are on the way.

AND Famous Four are not charging me for one, they say the one that broke had a years warranty! nice.:D
 
Indeed,There is delphi kit in GREENROVER69 and I have to say combined with a Japanese bearing and HD clutch fork is very smooth.Even girlwonder can drive it.

I also welded on a track rod end cup over the back of the push rod to fork connection.
 
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