clutch or gearbox??

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
tina2709

tina2709

Well-Known Member
Posts
6,063
Location
mostly on my street
Hi when I got my freelancer serviced I was told I needed a new clutch since then I am struggling to get car in to reverse and its getting worse. Can anyone tell me is this just because clutch is on its way out or is it likely to be something else as it only happens for reverse gear? Thanks in advance :)
 
petrol or diesel if it is petrol it could be the sealed system because they might have opened the master cylinder cap and you should not do this first thing is to ask them ,if it is a diesel then it could be slave cylinder in your gearbox ,have you noticed any spillage of fluid and lastly it could be your clutch but I would be surprised if you did not notice anything before ,like high revs to get going .:rolly:
 
Clutch pedal feels same to me my mechanic said it was too low for a land rover and should be higher, I had this problem before service but it is definitely getting more frequent, taking me 3 or 4 attempts to get in gear if it doesn't go into gear it makes a grinding noise
 
teddywood1 said:
petrol or diesel if it is petrol it could be the sealed system because they might have opened the master cylinder cap and you should not do this first thing is to ask them ,if it is a diesel then it could be slave cylinder in your gearbox ,have you noticed any spillage of fluid and lastly it could be your clutch but I would be surprised if you did not notice anything before ,like high revs to get going .:rolly:
Click to expand...

Had to take it back to garage a week after service for a bad oil leak if that counts, its petrol , don't think he changed transmission fluid said it was fairly new. The car had no service history when I bought it so I took it in for service as soon as I could in case it was in bad nick.
 
Ask your mechanic to check the slave cylinder bracket for being bent or cracked and that the clutch release arm is well lubricated - might save you a fortune ;)
 
Thank u Brack i just found another post by someone with exactly the same problem i seem to be experiencing and it points to wot u have suggested, i now need to find someone willing to check it out for me as my mechanic said i needed a new clutch and i am concerned if i go to him with this suggestion he may not be completely honest with me. I don't have a specific reason to think this but as the price difference between a new clutch and a new bracket would be huge i don't want to be taken for a mug! So could i please appeal to anyone in the norwich area if u have some free time and are willing just to come and take a look for me i would be very grateful and would supply tea and cake and reimburse fuel costs. Thanks
 
tina2709 said:
Thank u Brack i just found another post by someone with exactly the same problem i seem to be experiencing and it points to wot u have suggested, i now need to find someone willing to check it out for me as my mechanic said i needed a new clutch and i am concerned if i go to him with this suggestion he may not be completely honest with me. I don't have a specific reason to think this but as the price difference between a new clutch and a new bracket would be huge i don't want to be taken for a mug! So could i please appeal to anyone in the norwich area if u have some free time and are willing just to come and take a look for me i would be very grateful and would supply tea and cake and reimburse fuel costs. Thanks
Click to expand...

If the clutch cylinders or bracket is to blame? You don't necessarily need a new clutch. The bracket and cylinders are available as a complete kit for around £70. You must make sure the release lever is free or the cylinders will fail again very quickly.
 
Mine grates a bit going into reverse sometimes - I take my foot off the clutch pedal, give it a second or two then press down again - goes in ok second time.

Btw..

Did they check or fit a new slave cylinder mounting bracket? well worth checking this if they haven't it will strand you by the side of the road if it breaks. (£12 e bay)

Did they spray lube the clutch release arm (the slave piston engages this)
if this stiffens up then the extra pressure bends or breaks the bracket.
 
Think that you mentioned somewhere that the clutch biting point was low, in which case it's worth changing the clutch master cylinder if you haven't already done so. I had a low clutch biting point and difficulty engaging gears and a new master cylinder seems to have sorted it. Cost me £100 or so from Euro Car Parts, but can be had for £70 on ebay and took me about 30 mins to fit - could have done it without any tools if I'd tried harder as it just unclips from the pedal, slave cylinder pipe and bulkhead and even comes already filled with fluid so doesn't need bleeding...

Edited to add that this was on a 2004 TD4
 
Thanks guys clutch biting point is much higher now, don't know if he greased release arm or not and I will buy suggested bracket and see if that helps. I will have a look at Haynes Manuel and see if I can change it myself
 
If the clutch is working correctly and you are still getting a slight crunch into reverse don't worry. The PG1 box is known for it. There is no reverse synchro. However it's not really any problem and these boxes are strong and can soldier on for many tens of thousands of miles. The official line from Power Train Products who built it was, depress the clutch and wait at least 1 second before engaging reverse and always make sure the vehicle has come to a complete stop before waiting 1 second. Sometimes changing the oil will help, probably because new oil slows the reverse dog faster.
 
Last edited:
Nodge68 said:
If the clutch is working correctly and you are still getting a slight crunch into reverse don't worry. The PG1 box is known for it. There is no reverse synchro. However it's not really any problem and these boxes are strong and can soldier on for many tens of thousands of miles. The official line from Power Train Products who built it was, depress the clutch and wait at least 1 second before engaging reverse and always make sure the vehicle has come to a complete stop before waiting 1 second. Sometimes changing the oil will help, probably because new oil slows the reverse dog faster.
Click to expand...

Thanks u have put my mind at rest will just live with it for now then :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

htr
Freelander 1 Drain the gearbox?
Replies
2
Views
577
Arctic2
Arctic2
R
TD4 2.2 Clutch Pedal Release - Normal Shuddering or Something to Check?
Replies
1
Views
309
Alteredtech
Alteredtech
Madmustang
Freelander 2 (LR2) Freelander 2 TD4 Manual Jumping out of gear on Motorway
Replies
14
Views
1K
Madmustang
Madmustang
W
Lt77 clutch or Transmission issue.
Replies
2
Views
310
tottot
tottot
P
Freelander 1 td4 2006 clutch master cylinder.
Replies
6
Views
831
pdpjpr
P
Back
Top