Clutch not working. MK 1 petrol 1.8

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Roodle

New Member
Posts
49
Hi Guys,

Any help would be most gratefully accepted!

Jumped into my Freebie yesterday having not used it for about week. I started the engine and pushed in the clutch and tried to select first gear but the gearstick would not move. It felt solid as if the clutch hadn't been pushed in. When trying to select reverse, with the clutch pressed in, you can her the cogs grinding as if your trying to change gears without deploying the clutch.

The car was driven through flood water of about eight inches deep prior to parking it up last week it's also been below freezing for a few days. Does anyone know what could be causing this? Is it to do with he flood water or freezing temperatures... And if so, how do I rectify it?

HELLLLLLLPPPPPPP!!?,?,!
 
I suspect the release arm has seized in the gearbox. It's caused by rust. This overloads the hydraulics and slave cylinder bracket. This is a common fault easily prevented by a little lubricant applied to the release lever spindle every now and again.
 
Thanks for the reply Nodge. To go into more detail, with the engine turned off you can depress the clutch and you can select a gear. BUT if you then start the engine and release the clutch with the gear engaged the gears grind against each other as if you haven't engaged the clutch.


If you start the engine first and then depress the clutch you cannot move the gear stick....it solid. BUT if you try to select reverse the stick will move towards it but grinds as if the clutch isn't depressed.

Next step?

Many thanks,

R
 
You won't be able to select a gear if the gearbox input shaft is still turning.
The next step is to look at the clutch release lever while a helper presses the clutch pedal, (engine off).
You will see any loss of movement.
 
Many thanks Nodge. Where is the release lever located and is it something that a complete amateur could tackle? Would you use oil or wd40?

Many thanks forge advice.

R
 
Thanks for the reply Nodge. To go into more detail, with the engine turned off you can depress the clutch and you can select a gear. BUT if you then start the engine and release the clutch with the gear engaged the gears grind against each other as if you haven't engaged the clutch.


Shirley - if the clutch wasnt working, starting the engine after selecting a gear wouldnt give those ^^^ symptoms? It would be like starting the engine in gear - in fact that is what you would be doing :eek:.

If by releasing the clutch yu can hear the gears grinding, it sounds like the clutch is working, but the gearbox has lost drive..... Broken IRD?

When was the last time you did the VCU checks?
 
Thankyou very much for taking the time guys.


I'm really no mechanic and haven't ever done a VCU test. My there amigos ave been on for a while.... Would this be a coincidence or a symptom of the problem?


I think my next step would be the AA to get a definitive diagnosis and maybe a tow to a garage?


R
 
Thankyou very much for taking the time guys.


I'm really no mechanic and haven't ever done a VCU test. My there amigos ave been on for a while.... Would this be a coincidence or a symptom of the problem?


I think my next step would be the AA to get a definitive diagnosis and maybe a tow to a garage?


R
 
VCU test is easy - look in the CFAQ section or pm hippo.
I still think yu have a chance of recovering you money under the trades description act as it is "not of merchantable quality". Please read the thread above.

If not we can guide you through it, but you have to help yourself too.
 
What I suspect is happening is this. The clutch lever has gone stiff, this is a common problem easily fixed with some lubricant applied to the bushing in the box. The stiff lever has caused the slave cylinder bracket to give way. This is now causing the clutch to partially disengage. The partial disengagement is sufficient to allow the clutch to slip when the engine is started while a gear is selected, but not enough to stop the box from baulking hence it won't go into gear once the engine is running.
Of course this assumes that the splines in the gearbox and and IRD are ok
 
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Hopefully you can get there with some penetrating oil, wd40 can do the job though. Be better if you had an assistant pushing the clutch repeatedly whilst you spray. It's on the front of the gearbox so easy to get to
 
I'd use spray grease after but don't you want to penetrate the rusty seizure all the way in? I didn't realise how siezed mine was untill I did the clutch.

They can sieze solid!! I've had to remove the box and and apply a flame to the shaft before now. Once free, CV joint grease appears to work well to keep it free long term.
 
All good advice guys...I'll give it a try. Does anyone have any images of the clutch release arm and where it's located please?

Many thanks.

A
 
Just as a point of reference.

Last year I was called out to a mini (about a 2004 model) that was stuck in gear. This was due to the owner driving through a puddle very close to home, then parking up and the linkage froze solid. After running the engine for a while the ice melted and it would then go into gear. It's possible that the clutch slave and bracket could freeze in bad weather.
 
Front of the gearbox, can't really miss it. Can't remember from memory whether you can see it from under the bonnet but if you look under the car it will be looking straight at you
 
i dont know the arrangement for the petrol 1.8 but possibly its the clutch master cylinder, they are suspect on higher mileage motors,
if you can select gears ok with the engine not running, but have difficulty selecting 1st or reverse when engine is running, i would certainly suspect the master cylinder

let us know what you find
 
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