No it wont, but neither is it the reason I stripped the gearbox back out, I took the gearbox out because the slave pushrod wasn't standing proud enough off the bell housing, bear in mind the car ran 40 miles a day for almost two weeks like this and the only fault was the high biting point.
Clutch issues?
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No it wont, but neither is it the reason I stripped the gearbox back out, I took the gearbox out because the slave pushrod wasn't standing proud enough off the bell housing, bear in mind the car ran 40 miles a day for almost two weeks like this and the only fault was the high biting point.
Retroanaconda
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Slave push rod sticking out 10mm sounds about right to me. First time I did mine I thought it looked like it wasn’t enough as well but it always seems to work okay.
What do you think guys? Ive just had a hell of a time mating this gearbox back up and dont want to button everything up only to take it all apart again, I just cant see the slave piston having enough travel in the barrel to push this all the way in. On tightening the clutch cover in the pressure did retract the fingers in a fair bit but I always thought this was normal.
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Chadstone Pat
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that looks about right to me
Retroanaconda
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As above, that looks like mine did and it works fine.
tottot
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Looks normal.
Thanks guys, got it all buttoned up but its still not right, internals all seem to work fine, biting point is a little low but not stupidly so. The problem is the 1-2 inches of free play at the pedal before it starts to push fluid, so it needs setting up, or the components in the box are worn, any suggestions? Can the box be rebuilt? I am going to bleed it again when I can get an extra foot to help out.
jamesmartin
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adjust rod at the pedal box
I was thinking that too, its pretty much in the last quarter of the rod furthest away from the master, putting it closer to the master (somewhere in the middle of the rod) would take the biting point up higher but would it remove the freeplay? I need to get a second pair of hands to wiggle the pedal while I look to see whats causing the freeplay.
jamesmartin
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move it to the end so theres just a few threads showing past the outer nut
jamesmartin
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ive just done one and it needed to be very near the end to get a decent pedal
jamesmartin
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adjustment seems more vital now poorer parts i presume
Flossie
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My old pedal box is probably worn out James, its 33 years old.
jamesmartin
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wish i was
Flossie
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It's been a while but from memory you can get two fingers on the pushrod(or long nosed pliers) and 'feel' the free play. As long as the pushrod has slight play (only slight!- suspect you have too much and that is the problem) before pedal movement pushes the piston it'll be fine.
Fiddly job iirc and I seem to also remember that an assistant holding the pedal down improves access to the nuts. I think I cut down a spanner to help as well.
Your pedal box can only wear around the pedal pivot which would be obvious by sloppy play- I've never seen that happen.
Just had another thought...on mine there is a pedal stop adjustment, front of pedal box, mine was causing problems until I readjusted it , can't remember what issues (over 10yrs ago now).
The trunnion that the rod fixes to can have play, I think this is where mine has worn because the spigot will move before the rod as it takes up the slack causing freeplay at the top pf the pedal. The rod in the master is on a spring so it cant be that.
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