Clutch issues?

So I thought my master had gone, ive replaced it then went on to do the slave, I pulled the old one off and low and behold the push rode is only standing proud of the bell housing by about 10mm, that's not right is it? I put a new clutch in there a few weeks back and then it started to bite at the top of the pedal so I suspected the hydraulics, how proud should that push rod be? Its an LT77.

Check you only have a mill or two clearance at the MASTER pushrod first , if you haven't already.

That's a none issue since the slave is disconnected, Ive had a play and the fork has come away from its pivot, my guess is the snap clip under the fork as come away from the fork and its hanging loose, gearbox out , again...

I took the box out and cant see any issues, am I missing something? Could it be the plate is in back to front or I have the wrong clutch? I remember the cover being a total pain to fix to the flywheel, it was tight, and the bellhousing being a right pain to bolt in the last half inch to the engine. I just thought it was an alignment issue.

This was the kit, it was the Valeo one.

https://www.lrdirect.com/STC8358-Clutch-Kit-2.5Ddt200-300Tdi-Vale/

Butchered bush in the crank?

nobber said:

View attachment 152423 View attachment 152424 View attachment 152425 View attachment 152426 View attachment 152428 View attachment 152429 View attachment 152430 I took the box out and cant see any issues, am I missing something? Could it be the plate is in back to front or I have the wrong clutch? I remember the cover being a total pain to fix to the flywheel, it was tight, and the bellhousing being a right pain to bolt in the last half inch to the engine. I just thought it was an alignment issue.

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which way round did you put plate the raised boss side to flywheel as in pic?

Flossie said:

Butchered bush in the crank?

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Use a bread roll to remove that worn out bushing

I can't be sure but I suspect the plate is in backwards, is the boss supposed to go to the flywheel? The bush as far as ai know is fine.

nobber said:

I can't be sure but I suspect the plate is in backwards, is the boss supposed to go to the flywheel? The bush as far as ai know is fine.

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the part with the springs thats raised above the plate surface goes to flywheel the flat side towards g/box

I do recall when I did mine circa 10 yrs ago that there was no markings on the new plate, every clutch I've done on any vehicle always had ''flywheel" stamped on the correct side. Cost cutting?

I know mine's a different model but when I did mine at Christmas there was no indication of which way round the friction plate was supposed to go and the old one fell out when I took the cover plate off before I got a chance to look at it properly. I just found some pictures on the internet and followed those. As regards the push rod protrusion, mine was only just sticking out of the hole in the bellhousing, but then the slave cylinder goes in a bit so that's not usually a problem. The fiddly bit was getting things adjusted so that it would change gear. My bite point kept on getting closer and closer to the floor, so after driving around for a few hours it became increasingly difficult to change gear. After several rounds of adjustment the bite point stayed put and has been fine these past six months. I suspect the clutch in the pictures is mechanically fine, just keep adjusting it at the point where the push rod goes into the master cylinder.

jamesmartin said:

the part with the springs thats raised above the plate surface goes to flywheel the flat side towards g/box

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Are you sure James? There is no room in the flywheel for it, its a 19j engine.

nobber said:

Are you sure James? There is no room in the flywheel for it, its a 19j engine.

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no im not to be honest your right

Had me in a panic there fella, thought I had the wrong clutch. I pulled it apart and low and behold the bush had fractured and was stuck just proud of its seat, I cant see how this would have caused a high biting point on the pedal? I reckon the issue must be with the fork, perhaps it wasn't seated correctly and was slipping out of its seat on the thrust bearing, if the slippers were not seating properly the fork would have to travel further to engage the clutch as the slippers found a new seat to push against further along the bearing, that's my best guess. I will give the fork the once over and make sure its doing its job. Another thing I noticed was the 13mm screws holding the cover in place, they are so tight against the edge of the cover I cannot get a socket to seat properly over the hex head of the screw, that's with a 3/8 socket, I might try a 1/4 instead but it makes putting the cover on a right bollocks. The old cover didn't have this problem.

i use a thin wall 3/8 snap on socket most others are thicker and they do grab unless tightened evenly,it could of course be a poor clutch cover

I reckon the plate might have been sitting proud because of the bush stuck proud and this may have been warping the cover too much, or as you say the cover may well be a little less than perfect. None of this would account for a high biting point so my money is still on the fork slippers not seating properly.

As has been said before, the spigot bush in your crank looks well 7ucked, this won't be doing you any favours.